How do I fix vinyl plank flooring that is buckling?
I had vinyl plank flooring installed and after a year and a half of it laying there like a floor should, it started separating where each plank was butted against one another and then it began to buckle in other areas. I had the cement floor inspected for signs of water damage or a slab leak and neither were found. I had some planks pulled up and spare new ones installed and now it’s buckling in new areas. It’s a floating floor, but obviously something is wrong. Since the original installer wasn’t successful in fixing the problem, I’m still stuck with the buckling flooring. I guess I’m on my own and need to figure out a way to DIY. I’m ready to yank the planks up and just glue them down. However, other input on how or what to do, other then gluing it down, would be appreciated.
My Daughter had this problem when she bought and moved into her house. She and my husband used a saw to cut off a quarter-inch at a time off one end of the room he removed the baseboards to tell where to cut. The floor should not hit the wall anywhere in the room. it was a pain but one-quarter of an inch solved the problem. They used a jamb saw so that there was no handle on one side, it fit right against the wall.
Aren't these supposed to be "floating" in the sense that they are not secured to the floor, only to each other? Consider expansion and contraction with seasonal temperatures.
I would start by reading this: https://readytodiy.com/can-you-and-should-you-fix-a-buckling-vinyl-plank-flooring-0051/
here is info for you I do know that with wood floors, they will buckle due to humidity issues and also if there is dampness somewhere in that area
https://www.builddirect.com/learning-center/flooring/how-to-stop-your-vinyl-plank-flooring-from-buckling/#:~:text=Sunlight%20%26%20Heat,between%20two%20of%20the%20tiles.
Did the installer leave a gap along the walls?! Did he use recommended underlayment before laying down the flooring? A 1/3" to 1/2" gap all around is recommended for expansion. Molding covers the gap and it should be nailed to the baseboard and not the flooring. Underlayment is a vapor barrier and allows the floor to move.
William is right. we have a floor that the installer left a gap around all four sides.
Been on the floor for about 12 years and no buckling.
This video shows how to fix several floor issues: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0CQpMUP209o
Call the company that installed it and ask them if they stand behind their work. Log the exact date the floor was installed and every phone call and contact you have made regarding this. You may need that info in the future.
It involves quite a bit of work fixing it yourself. You might need to completely remove the flooring the reinstall. If you know the brand look it up on the internet. Before tackling the job check to see if there is a gap all around the perimeter. Remove one or two boards and see if there is underlayment. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Flooring-Flooring-Supplies-Surface-Prep-Underlayment/N-5yc1vZcdtw
If there is no gap or proper underlayment you would need to remove the flooring, install proper underlayment, then reinstall the flooring with at least 1/3" to 1/2" gap around the perimeter.
You could glue it down but the concrete would need to be sealed. The Big Box store can help you with what adhesive to use.
I think gap wasn't left as it was installed .. make sure to trim that