Linda van Reenen
Linda van Reenen
  • Hometalker
  • Amarillo, TX
Asked on Oct 26, 2012

What is the right way to glaze kitchen cabinets.

Linda van ReenenPatrica MullinsWallsTreat Studio/ Kass Wilson
+19

Answered

I have just painted the cabinets, buttermilk color. I want to glaze the crevices only. Will the poly-shades product work? It has polyurethane in it?
21 answers
  • KMS Woodworks
    on Oct 26, 2012

    I Will tag @WallsTreat Studio/ Kass Wilson she is one of our finish experts here. I would avoid the poly shades personally...I have done some work with it but preffer to use normal oil based stains on bare wood then top coat with a clear poly. Glazes are similar to the poly in that they have a bit of transparent nature...but mixing oil and water based can lead to trouble.

  • Linda, What product did you use to paint your cabinets. . . is it acrylic or alkyd? Just like KMS said, water based products will not stick on top of oil based products. But you CAN put oil over water.

  • Linda van Reenen
    on Oct 26, 2012

    100% acrylic latex - semi gloss

  • Linda van Reenen
    on Oct 26, 2012

    Kass,can you explain to me what glaze will work on the acrylic. will brown be the right color on buttermilk color? Do I have to seal the glaze. If I only glaze the crevice lines, do I have to seal the entire door? thanks !!

  • When you purchase glaze (Ben Moore and ShWms both have it), it is clear because it is meant to be sheer. The reason we use glaze rather than straight paint or stain is because it creates more "open time". That means that it will not dry as quickly which gives you more time to apply it in the crevices and then wipe it clean. This allows your lines to be crisp rather than the "messy/ smearing" look. It can be tinted to the exact color of brown that you want. OR, you can mix it 50/50 with straight latex paint in the color of your choice.

  • Linda, I forgot to address your question about top coats/ sealers. Durability is your issue here and it begins with the prep and primer that was used. Of all the surfaces that I work on, kitchen cabinets take the hardest beating because of use, moisture, chemicals and need to be cleaned often (second only to any surface in a little boy's bathroom!) As a result, I always include 2-3 coats of a sealer.

  • Linda van Reenen
    on Oct 27, 2012

    Kass, thank you so much for all the info and your time, I appreciate it so much. So glad I discovered you! I have never painted before, so you can imagine what a big deal it is for me. So far I'm proud of myself. I don't know what sealer to use and what kind of paint brush and how to apply. Is there perhaps a tutorial I can watch or maybe you can just describe how to do it. It sounds like a huge job!! I thought the glazing will be a piece of cake, but it sounds like even a bigger job than the actual painting :)

  • Paint-N-Plus
    on Oct 27, 2012

    Hey Linda,Sounds like Kass has got you taken care of.As far as you sealer, Sealer comes in differant sheens.You can get a high gloss or a low gloss. I would use a polyurethane (oil base) product. You can get a good brush at any paint store or your local home depot. I would go w/ a 3 inch brush.As far as how to do it.It is very easy to seal.What i find i have to keep an eye on is runs in corners.Just glance back over these and you shoulb be fine.I would recommend at least 2 coats w/ a light sanding between coats

  • Linda, Go to a store that specializes in paint and coating products (Ben Moore or Sherwin Wms). They will make recommendations for your top coats. Most of what I use is a satin sheen. The higher the sheen, the more you will see any brush marks or imperfections. I also stay away from oil base products for 2 reasons. One is the Volatile Organic Compounds (VOCs) and you want to protect that precious little one. The other is that oil base products will change color. It yellows over time. This is not as apparent on dark colors. But on lighter colors you can definitely see it. I see many kitchens that you can tell "where the sun never shines"! LOL I think I speak for a majority of professionals by recommending Purdy brushes. A 2 inch brush is my favorite for cabinets. Start by applying your clear coat into the corners and crevices. Then use a small high density foam roller with rounded edges for the larger surfaces. This will avoid brush marks. Do not press too hard. . . just keep the roller well loaded and it will do the work for you. If there are some small spots that are missed, don't worry. It is best to do multiple thin coats rather than one heavy coat. You can catch those open spots on your next layer. Good luck . . . send us some pictures!

  • One more tip . . . never shake a topcoat or sealer because that will produce bubbles. Instead, just gently stir it (like you do for a perfect batch of brownies!!!!) Don't be in a hurry when you are rolling. Just let the product glide on the surface. All of these tips are in my book. . . you just got the Cliff notes!!! LOL

  • KMS Woodworks
    on Oct 28, 2012

    Brownies....did someone mention brownies....with snow on the ground baking might be in order today.

  • Linda van Reenen
    on Oct 28, 2012

    Thanks Kass. I will send some pics......if they came out good :)

  • Linda, you will be glad you took the time to ask the questions and do it right. Kitchen cabinets are a labor of love.

  • Yes, KMS. . . BROWNIES!!!! Domestics are not my strong suit but I AM the Queen of Brownies.

  • Linda van Reenen
    on Oct 28, 2012

    Kass, I'm the queen of domestics, wish we could trade. I feel like I can't paint to save my life!!!

  • Linda van Reenen
    on Oct 29, 2012

    Kass, how long does it take for the top coat to dry?

  • Every product is different and it also depends upon your temp, humidity and air circulation in the space. In general, water based products will dry faster than oil. Check with the paint professional in your area. They can give you a better idea about how long you should wait before doing a second coat. Keep in mind that just because they are dry to the touch does not mean they are cured. I leave the doors open for about a day and then add the felt bumpers on the inside of the doors and drawers. Don't use the plastic ones. . . they are meant for glass, stone and tile because they will react with most paint products.

    • Jan Munroe
      on Aug 19, 2015

      @WallsTreat Studio/ Kass Wilson Cool idea about the felt bumpers. Are you speaking of the ones you buy to place under objects so they don't scratch things as in the Dollar Store type?

  • Linda, I will trade you pics of your finished project in exchange for my fudge brownie pie recipe!!! LOL OK, KMS. . . do you have something you want to trade??? !!!

  • Linda van Reenen
    on Oct 29, 2012

    Deal!!! I already hung the doors back up. Do I have to take them off again to do the glazing and top coat?

  • Patrica Mullins
    on Jan 31, 2013

    I live in a mobile home. Is there some way I can paint them? They are made out of a cheap press board material.

  • Linda van Reenen
    on Jan 31, 2013

    Hi Patricia, are you referring to your kitchen cabinets?

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