What is the best way to get rid of squeaking hardwood floors?

Gene
by Gene
These are on the main level with a full basement underneath.
  23 answers
  • Hudson Designs Hudson Designs on Oct 02, 2011
    Hi Gene, KMS wood works has a great fix for this. http://www.hometalk.com/activity/79943
  • Gene Gene on Oct 02, 2011
    Thanks for the answers, but I'm still hoping for more ideas.
  • JL Spring & Associates JL Spring & Associates on Oct 02, 2011
    With access to the floor from beneith and having a helper, have someone walk the floor and wherever there's a squeek, have a wood shim and some QUAD clear coat adhesive. Where the squeek is, start to tap a wood shim between the subfloor and floor joist with a squirt of Quad as a lubricator as you tap with a hammer or rubber mallet. When dry, the shim will have quieted the noise and not backed out. Best wishes! JL
  • Either what JL & KMS suggested....or simply screw from below...we do that all the time
  • Gene Gene on Oct 02, 2011
    Andy, what length screws do you use?
  • That would depend on the thickness of the flooring and the subflooring. You certainly don't want the screw tips coming up underfoot. Unless I am sure the problem is caused by inadequate fastening, I always start with talcum powder worked in from above. There are three main sources of flooring squeaks. wood/wood on the finish flooring wood/fasteners if the flooring was not fastened down tight or with enough nails/staples, or if it shrunk later wood/wood between the subfloor and the floor joists if the builder did not use construction adhesive to make that bond good occasionally there can be a wood/wood squeak if the flooring installer failed to use paper under the finish flooring when he installed it. That can be the hardest to fix, but is also the rarest problem, fortunately. If someone can watch from down below while another person walks about on the floor, you can find clues as to which type of squeak it is. For instance, if you see a small gap between joists and subfloor that changes when a person steps above, you need to insert shims with glue to tighten that joint
  • Karen G Karen G on Oct 02, 2011
    TThis may sound weird, but my grandparents used baby powder swept in between the boards...squeaks stopped. Not very technical, but not lots of work either.
  • Allen J Allen J on Oct 02, 2011
    I like squeaks, learn to use them to play songs. Or, if you have access to subfloor from basement, try 3/4" screw from below while putting weight on squeak from above. Or, drill small hole about 3/8" from below through subfloor and use caulk gun to force liquid nails under squeak then apply weight to squeaky spot.
  • baby powder = talcum powder Karen
  • Allen J Allen J on Oct 02, 2011
    Talcum, good idea!
  • Alot of times in our market, the builders have nailed the subfloors....and nails tend to work themselves free over time...at least enough to squeak.
  • Gene Gene on Oct 03, 2011
    Thanks for all the ideas, guys/gals. Until I try them I won't know if my problem is resolved or not. I'll let you know later. Thanks again for the help.
  • Gene Gene on Oct 03, 2011
    See above.
  • Andy, it is less about nails vs screws, if the proper ring shanked nails are used, they will not work loose. It is the failure to use the right nails or to fail to use construction adhesive also. The framing lumber dries and shrinks back from the subfloor leaving a gap in that joint that appears as tho the nail is standing proud. When the glue is used, the subfloor remains adhered to the joists and no gap is formed to move and make noise. Regardless of the detail, that kind of squeak is a failure by the original builder.
  • Agreed Nichter....I just like screws and detest liquid nailing anything....I've had to remove the work of others too many times. Good points though!
  • Using the construction adhesive is the standard for a generation now . Design loads for floor systems take that into account. Delete it and you will have more floor vibration as well as squeaks A floor is not just a floor, it is designed as a system, complete. You can't delete any of the components of a system and expect it to work the way it is designed any more than you want to fly on a jet with one built missing from the engine mounts. The results on the jet are more dramatic but neither one works as intended. I recently saw an example of squeaking and settling at a single floor truss. Turns out the problem was that the HVAC guys had cut out the required strongback to make their work a tiny bit easier. That led to doors above not fitting right, cracks in the sheetrock wall, and noise walking over the floor nearby. All because of one lazy ignorant installer with a sawsall! I see framers who decide to delete blocking or bridging too, just because they don't want to do it or to save a buck. Then the floor can have problems. It is not uncommon for builders to delete the adhesive just to save $50 on the jpb
  • You're right...it is the standard...I just don't subscribe to it on most of my projects...sometimes. We've never had any issues as a result. You are right about short-cuts with other trades...especially in new construction. If the inspectors don't catch it...it becomes expensive for the HO. Gene - you've basically got the idea for how you can fix it or have one of us take a look! At least you have that full basement for access. If you are alone, you can probably get a neighbor to help you pinpoint the locations of the squeaks. I should be in that area over the weekend if you need a hand.
  • Itsreally C Itsreally C on Oct 05, 2011
    all this adhesive stuff is fine IF the floor has been installed WITHOUT vapor barrier which most know isn't right - WITH vapor barrier, its only screws & talc
  • Not sure what you mean there. This one has a full open basement under it and if it were a crawl space, odds are the VB could/would be on ground level
  • Itsreally C Itsreally C on Oct 05, 2011
    between the sub-floor ( plywood ) & the finished flooring surface,,, most common vb is tarpaper
  • JL Spring & Associates JL Spring & Associates on Oct 05, 2011
    Nichter Knows! JL
  • TP is not a VB, only a vapor retarder. It does deal with one of the potential sources of squeaks, which I mentioned above, but does not interfere with the glue and shims at the other joint
  • Gene Gene on Oct 09, 2011
    As I said last week, 'Thanks for all the suggestions, but I won't know if my problem is solved until I have time to try some of the suggestions. I will let everyone know when I get around to it.'