Create a Unique Plant Stand or Side Table for Your Deck or Patio

ChickFix
by ChickFix
6 Materials
$100
1 Day
Easy

Spring is almost here, and I’m chomping at the bit to start planting! But since it’s still a little early where I live, I got my gardening fix by creating this unique plant stand with basic materials from my local home improvement store. The special touch on this one was created by using Upstart Epoxy Art Resin!


STEP 1: Collect Your Materials


The main materials for this project can be purchased from your local home improvement store:


(1) large pine “panel round” (I found this in the same aisle as trim and baseboards)

(1) Viagoro plant stand (17.9 in. x 16.3 in. x 8.7 in.)

(1) package of ½ inch two-hole straps

(6) ¾ inch screws (# 8 or # 10 screws)


Panhead screws, where the underside of the screw head is flat (as shown below), would be best, but any ¾ inch wood screw would be fine. The most important thing is to make sure the screw is short enough to not come through the top of your wood.


The Upstart Epoxy Art Resin kit and Mica Powder kit are available from UpstartEpoxy.com or from Amazon.com.


The kit comes with measuring cups, stir sticks, and gloves, but I found it helpful to have extra gloves and stir sticks handy. Epoxy resin works by mixing the resin (orange bottle) and hardener (blue bottle) together in equal parts, so you will also need disposable cups for mixing.


NOTE: There is enough epoxy in this kit to do at least three projects of this size.


STEP 2: Prepare Your Space


Epoxy is MESSY! I prepared for this by cutting off the bottom of a large cardboard box, and covering it with a large plastic garbage bag. Then I drove some nails into a small board, and set it inside the box.


This way, the finished piece could sit up off of the plastic while the epoxy dripped down the sides, without getting stuck to the plastic.



STEP 3: A Tiny Bit of Sanding


I spent a couple of minutes sanding down the wood with some 400 grit sandpaper, just to make sure I started with a nice, smooth surface (any medium or fine grit of sandpaper will do).


Additionally, I used some masking tape to tape off a nice clean circular line around the bottom edge.


STEP 4: Mix Your Epoxy!


SAFETY FIRST: Make sure you are in a well-ventilated space before you start mixing your ingredients! It doesn’t smell at first, but you can definitely smell it once it starts to dry.


Scoop out a couple of spoonfuls of the mica powders of your choice into disposable cups. Then, using a 1:1 ratio, measure out Part A (the orange bottle) and Part B (blue bottle) for each color you want to include. 


Although the proportions of Part A and Part B need to be precise, the mica powder can be added to create the opacity of your choice. I used 2 heaping scoops for each color, and approximately 1.5 ounces of both Part A and Part B. (I measured visually by comparing the levels in the Part A & Part B cups. This is a benefit to using clear disposable cups.)


NOTE: I noticed that the resin (part A in the orange bottle) had gotten a little thick after being stored in my chilly basement for a while. To make it a little thinner and easier to work with, I set the entire bottle in a pan of pre-warmed -- steaming, not boiling -- water for several minutes (similar to warming up a baby’s bottle). This made it a lot easier to work with!



STEP 5: Start Pouring!


It’s time to get creative! Pour the various mixtures onto the wood in whatever pattern you like. Lift the wood to swirl the different colors together, or use a heat gun or hair dryer.


A heat gun, if you have one, is particularly helpful in removing any bubbles that might be trapped in the resin (although since epoxy takes a long time to dry and is self-leveling, many - if not all - of the bubbles will escape as it dries). 


It’s difficult to be precise with this material, so don’t worry if it doesn’t go exactly “as planned.” 



STEP 6: Dry Time


The benefit of using epoxy resin is its extreme durability, but you must be patient! It needs 3-4 days (or more, depending on the thickness of your layer) to be ready to handle, and even longer to properly cure. So don’t rush it!


CAUTION: Resist the urge to touch it! I made the mistake of testing it for dryness after 24 hours, and now you can see my fingerprint if you look at it from just the right angle. Oops!



STEP 7: Sanding and Touch Up


Once you’re sure it’s dry, flip it over and inspect the bottom. Pull off the masking tape, if you have used any. Mine still had drips (even though I attempted to wipe them away while it was still wet), so I used my sander to level them off. 


STEP 8: Attach the Legs


Attach the legs to the bottom using the two-hole straps and ¾ inch screws. Be sure to measure carefully first to make sure the leg piece is properly centered.


NOTE: Be careful when pre-drilling the holes that you don’t drill all the way through!


And you’re done! You now have a plant stand/side table that will hold up to the elements, and is easy to clean!


Watch the full video of this project on ChickFix USA on YouTube!

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Frequently asked questions
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  • Mary Arguelles Mary Arguelles on Apr 16, 2021

    I have a real old outdoor metal table (probably 70 years or so) which I repaint each year, do you think I could use this technique on the top? Thanks.

  • Pendragon5 Pendragon5 on May 30, 2021

    Will resin adhere to concrete for use as a stepping stone?

  • Dka27519972 Dka27519972 on Feb 27, 2022

    Do you need to seal the unfinished wood on the underside before putting on the legs and using outside?

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