DIY Base Cabinets With Drawers for Craft Desk

9 Materials
$250
1 Day
Medium

In this tutorial, I teach you how to build a DIY base cabinet with drawers for a desk, craft table, or table. You will also learn how to make drawers, install drawer slides, and build a cabinet carcass.

This DIY base cabinet with drawers project is part 2 of my epoxy resin ocean glow table I built for my wife as a Mother’s Day gift. However, these DIY base cabinets can be used on any table or desk in need of a table base with storage.

Since the ocean glow table is my wife’s craft table, I needed to build a table base with drawers with storage for her cricut accessories.

So, I designed the DIY base cabinets from scratch and started building it shortly after I completed the ocean table.

Again, this storage solution can be used for any table top. They also can be used as a night stand or standalone cabinet.

Please consider subscribing to my youtube channel to get notified when I release a new video.

Step 1: Gather Materials & Make Cuts

The first step to all of my projects is to gather the materials.  I get frustrated when I start a project and realize I don't have the materials I need to proceed with the build.  I use many products such as Epoxy Resin which cannot be purchased at a local big box store. The lack of proper material planning causes delays of 2 to 3 days.  I included the material and tools I used in this document for your reference with links to where I purchased them from. I referred to this list many times before I started my project to make sure I had the materials I needed and I encourage you to do the same.

Many people prefer to perform all their cuts before they start the project.  However, I prefer to make only the cuts I need to complete a particular step. Only cutting the items needed to complete a step allows me to compensate for any mistakes or incorrect measurement after each step before proceeding to the next step.  For example, I may need to adjust a measurement in step 2 for a few corner braces due to a small mistake I made in step 1. If I cut all the material at once, there is no room for error.



Cabinet Sides

Step 2: Cabinet Carcass Sides

There are 3 pieces of woodFirst, line up the corner pieces and put down a line of glue on one edge of the ‘Front Short’ piece.  Spread the glue with a glue spreader or your finger. I chose to spread the glue on all these pieces at once to save time.  If you choose to do it this way, be sure to work quickly to avoid the glue drying prematurely.

Next, flip the ‘front short’ piece on a flat side facing the ‘front long’ piece.  The ‘front long’ piece should be upright on its side as shown below. Using a speed square or L-Square, perform a quick 90 degree angle check.  After the pieces are aligned, secure them with 3 brad nails (2 sides and middle). The brad nails simply hold the 2 pieces together until screws are used.

To complete the side of the cabinet carcass, take 2 corners you just made and 1 ‘side outside’ as labeled in the cut list.  Lay the corners down on the flat surface and make sure the ‘front short’ piece is laying flat and the ‘front long’ piece is perpendicular.  Apply and spread glue on the ‘front short’ piece from the top and 25” down on each corner pair. Next, lay the ‘side outside’ piece on top of the glue and secure with brad nails.  Repeat the same process with the pilot hole, countersink bit, and pocket screws as before.





Step 3: Top and Bottom Cross Supports

First, get one side from the previous step and lay it perpendicular on a flat surface. 

Next, place glue on each one end of the ‘inside runner’ and place it on the side as shown in the picture below. 

Then, use a speed square or L square to make sure the ‘inside runners’ are perpendicular to the side.

Finally, use 2 brad nails to secure the piece followed by 2 screws in the pilot hole.

Cabinet Interior Side

Step 4: Interior Sides

First, spread a liberal amount of glue on one side of the ‘inside side’. This piece is supported from the bottom runner, so a clamp is not needed to secure it. 

Next, use brad nails to secure the piece.

Then, drill a pilot hole in each corner (4), followed by a countersink bit and screws.

Drawers and Drawer Faces

Step 5: Drawers and Drawer Faces

The easiest way to assemble drawers is to start with the bottom, front, and back piece. 

First, lay the bottom down on a flat surface.

Next, spread glue on the front bottom and back bottom. 

Then, stand them in place (bench dog or something similar helps) and check for 90 degree angle.  Additionally, you may find it easier to hold the L square on the drawer bottom and push it against the front/back while driving 3 brad nails in the middle and both sides.


This DIY base cabinet with drawers has inset cabinet doors, which means the drawer face will be flush with the face frame. 

I cut the drawers and ran them through my router with a ½” roundover bit. The roundover is optional.

Epoxy Resin Drawer Pulls

Step 6: Resin Drawer Pulls

In order to match the Ocean Table, I used epoxy resin silicone molds of sea creatures and mickey mouse ears. 

Also, I made most of these with excess epoxy resin after a resin pour.

Although these are not the easiest knobs to install, they certainly match the table well.

If you need more information on epoxy resin projects on my website.

Sand Cabinet

Step 7: Patch Holes and Sand

First, I used wood putty to fill the holes and allowed it to dry per the instructions. 

Next, I used my orbital sander with 220 grit sandpaper to sand it down.

An orbital sander or normal sandpaper works just fine.

Chalk Paint Recipe

Step 8: Chalk Paint Recipe & Paint

First, I painted the entire cabinet carcass and drawer faces with chalk paint that I mixed myself from leftover Sherwin Williams satin paint (color SW7008). I have a ton of experience with painting and I really don’t like doing it, which is why chalk paint is the perfect solution for many of my projects.

In summary, chalk paint goes on evenly, dries quickly, leaves a flat finish, and covers more surface area with less paint.

Visit my blog post for the full chalk paint recipe.

Attach Drawer Pulls

Step 9: Attach Drawer Pulls

First, find the center of the drawer face. Do this by measuring the length and dividing by 2.

Then, measure the width and divide by 2. The center of the drawer face is where these lines intersect.

Next, place a small amount of CA glue around the hole on the drawer face and spray activator on the back of the resin knob. 

Finally, press the resin knob on the center of the drawer and hold for roughly 5 seconds.

Install Drawers

Step 10: Install Drawers

First, make sure the bottom drawer has a support which is even with the bottom frame.

Next, I had to get creative with this step because I didn’t want to waste a piece of wood for the base cabinet support for the bottom drawer. 

Also, a leftover piece of sinker cypress from a previous project along with 2 paint sticks and 2 popsicle sticks was perfect for a base support.

Each paint stick is ⅛” thick and a popsicle stick is 1/16” thick. Finally, I turned the sinker cypress 45 degrees so that it would balance the drawer when placed on top of it.

Next, I cut 2 pieces of scrap ¾” plywood the length of the cabinet frame (18”) and 1.5” wide for the drawer slide to rest on.  

Then, place the drawer slide on top of the scrap piece of plywood and make sure it is aligned/flush with the back of the ¾” cabinet face frame. Remember, this is an inset cabinet so ¾” of an inch is needed for the drawer face.

Also, it is a good idea to place the magnetic torpedo level on top of the drawer slide to make sure it is level.

Fasten Drawer Slides

Step 11: Fasten Drawer Slide

Gently slide the drawer slide forward to reveal the holes in the back of the slide. While holding the slide in place from the rear, drive 3 cabinet screws in the holes provided. 

Ultimately, it doesn’t matter what holes are used as long as they are spaced appropriately (rear, middle, front). Finally, remove each scrap piece of plywood.

Place 2 paint sticks on top of the bottom support to lift the drawer ⅛” from the bottom as depicted in the drawing at the beginning of this section. 

Next, place the drawer on top and ensure the paint sticks are supporting the drawer evenly.

The drawer should fit snugly between each drawer slide.

Install Drawer Face

Step 12: Install Drawer Face

First, drill 2 pilot holes and counter sink into the back of the drawer front. 

Next, place 2 popsicle sticks on top for the 3 bottom drawers and on bottom of the top drawer. Then, align the drawer face so that it is flush with the popsicle sticks minus about a tiny bit (1/32”).  

Afterwards, drive 2 pocket screws to secure the drawer face from the rear. Check to make sure the drawers fit and adjust if needed.

Pocket Hole for Table Top

Step 13: Secure Table Top

As I mentioned previously, these work well as a table base or standalone unit. Regardless, you need a top on these base cabinets; therefore, you need a way to secure it. You can use glue, pocket holes, or a combo of both. I used only pocket holes in case I wanted to remove it.

First, I used my kreg pocket hole jig and clamp to make 2 pocket holes per cabinet base - one on the left and one on the right. This prevents the table from moving or sliding.

Also, pocket holes are perfect for this application because I may want to remove it in the future.

DIY Base Cabinet with Drawers

Conclusion

In summary, this DIY Base Cabinet with Drawers project was fun. I learned many new skills, which is always the goal.

Also, don't forget to checkout my ocean glow table project.

Additionally, checkout DIY base cabinet with drawers digital plans by clicking the red button below.

Please consider subscribing to my youtube channel to get notified when I release a new video.

Suggested materials:
  • Drawer Slides   (https://amzn.to/2u3VDZP)
  • Epoxy Resin   (http://amzn.to/2ppVtJZ)
  • 2 - 4'x8' sheets of Sanded Plywood   (Local Hardware store.)
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Jeremy Hoffpauir
Want more details about this and other DIY projects? Check out my blog post!
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