DIY Rustic Farmhouse Tables
- Legs - (8) 2x4 @ 22"
- Connections - (4) - 2x2 @ 16"
- X Design - (2) 2x2 @ 26" long to short, you will want to trace the cut once your legs and connections are assembled. Also, (4) 2x2 @ 13" - again trace this once your longer piece is in place.
- Table Top - (5) 2x6 @ 27"
- Bottom Shelf - (2) 1x12 @ 16"
- Tape measure
- Speed square
- Kreg Jig Pocket Hole System
- Drill and bit set
- Miter Saw
Step 1: Build the two ends.
You will drill pocket holes into the top and bottom 2x4s. Use plenty of wood glue and attach with 2 1/2" pocket screws. Remember to double check your Kreg Jig settings based on the thickness of the material In this case, you are using 1 1/2" thick material (2 x 4).
Note: Now, while I did do the project's next steps in the order I am about to tell you, I would actually recommend switching steps 2 and 3 up, because it was a super tight fit. I really had a hard time! My thoughts after I squeezed it in the space between the sides and the connections were this:
I think it would be easier to build the bottom shelf first, with all pocket holes already drilled in the shelf section. Attach the shelf to the two sides you have already built and then add your 2 x 2 connection pieces.
Also using the pocket hole system and 2 1/2" screws, drill the hole into the 2x2 carefully.
Using the pocket hole system, adjust your settings for 3/4" material and connect the two pieces of the bottom shelf together with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and wood glue. Prior to fitting the shelf into place, drill pocket holes around the edge to connect the shelf to the sides of the table. Then, fit into place and attach with 1 1/4" pocket hole screws and wood glue, flush to the top of the 2x4s so it is a smooth transition.
I found it really helpful to clamp my 2x2 into place and then trace the cuts with a pencil. That way, it fit perfectly! Attach with wood glue and normal wood screws. These are mostly decorative.
Using 1 1/2" pocket holes and 2 1/2" pocket hole screws, build your table top. I clamped as I went until my clamps ran out of space!
I painted the base and stained the top, so I didn't actually attach the top to the base until after the base was fully painted and the table top was fully stained. I'm a fairly messy project person, so I wasn't confident I could keep the two pieces cleanly apart!
They wanted a really distressed look, so I distressed the white paint off using a combination of hand and mouse sanding with 120-220 grit sandpaper.
For the base, I wanted it to look fairly rustic, so I chose a matte, water based polyurethane to seal. For the table top, I used the shinier oil based poly to seal. Apply your first coat and let it dry. Then, sand it and apply a second coat once the sanding dust has been cleaned off.
Despite seeking out the straightest boards, my pine furniture involving table tops usually comes out just slightly off - everything is level until I attach the table top. So, to combat that issue, I have attached leveling feet to the legs!
Shown here is the matching coffee table's leg, but I used the same style of feet on each table. You can adjust them so that the table does not wobble and it has been a life saver for me!
Resources for this project:See all materials
Lula Porter on Feb 18, 2022
LOVE this! The Kreg pocket hole jig changed my crafting! Your style matches my farmhouse, too. And I enjoy working with pine. Now I would cheat on the stamped stuff on the wood. Instead of sanding it down, I would just hide it.
I'm getting back into working with wood and going back to fighting my router. Thank God farmhouse style doesn't have routed edges.