Typography transfer using liquitex onto stained wood
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The photo is what I'm trying to achieve. Do I stain the wood first or after I do the transfer? Will the liquitex work if I have to stain first? There is a matte and a gel version of the liquitex, which should I use? What would I seal this with after, I read somewhere to NOT use something because it will smear and come off; but I don't remember what it was.
4 answers
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http://www.liquitex.com/techniques/ This site has info on some of the uses for liquitex. You may be able to find help from the company. Basically it's a type of paint. One thing I see is you have to varnish after your work is done. I believe you would stain the wood first because the stain would cover everything there or at least change the color of the print. Going back to decoupage the order would be stain, apply art work, several coats of decoupage and use steel wool for sanding off spots after each coat dries. I'd go with the pens for easier handling, instead of a brush.
Deanna Nassar
on Sep 16, 2016
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I have to say that I rarely use this type of transfer, because I thing it's a lot of work. What can look interesting is to use t-shirt transfer paper to do a transfer to wood. It will be a bit less solid looking, especially if the wood is rough. However, it could be done, then stained.
Marilee H
on Sep 17, 2016
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You can also reverse the image on you computer, then print it onto a piece of clear plastic sheet (cellophane) available in most stationary shops. Immediately lay the printed image face down onto the wood, and use a credit card to squegee the ink onto the wood. It might take more than one go, but it really does work. Just run the cellophane under the tap before you print your second attempt. Line it up carefully and away you go. You can re-use the cellophane as many times as you like, but do a practise run first. Varnish when you've finished.
Jack Rogerson
on Sep 17, 2016
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Test this first with some other transfer but once the ink has had some time to dry, apply a thin coat of your acrylic gloss over the area. Then let it dry as well. Then you can apply a spray clear gloss or matte finish over that which will then protect the print. Rustoleum or Valspar work great and the acrylic gloss you applied will reduce the risk of the ink bleeding. The spray glosses and vanishes can soften the ink until they too have dried. I use this process on a number of my paintings but only once on a silhoutette transfer.
Phillipcardjr
on Sep 20, 2016
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