Not sure what these little wood prices are for as they were there when I removed the baseboards??
Use caulking fill floor gaps and liquid Nails to re-adhere baseboards?
Two Questions??
It’s been along time since I’ve be on here…
Any ideas on best caulking to use on gap between the bottom of the drywall to the subfloor…
So I removed the baseboards, took up carpet, kiltz and sealed subfloor laid vinyl plank flooring…. Now I have this huge gap all away around the baseboards.
I’ve been told I need to put caulking to fill the gaps to prevent pest “ANT” other insects and drafts.
Then replacing the baseboards back in they are primed and painted white. Thinking about using Liquid Nails to adhere them back on?? Any one done that before???
Thanks!!!
Related Discussions
How to get rid of mice?
We seem to have some unwelcome Mickeys and Minnies in our house. What is the best way to get rid of them?
How to remove popcorn ceiling with asbestos?
I want to remove my popcorn ceiling, but it has asbestos in it. How do I go about this safely?
How to caulk baseboard gaps?
How do I fill gaps at baseboard, should I caulk? If so, does anyone know how to caulk baseboards?
How to fix squeaky hardwood floors?
How do I fix squeaky hardwood floors?
Tile backsplash when there is existing countertop backsplash
We are thinking about how to add a backsplash to our kitchen. Unfortunately when we had our countertops installed we ordered a small backsplash that comes part way up... See more
Contractor mis-cut the floor when he put in the toilet
Hello, Our contractor didn't "measure twice, cut once" when he put in our toilet. Check out the photo. I'd appreciate any suggestions on a fix or a way to hide this m... See more
The wood pieces might be spacers or nailers. Looks like a large gap that might be tough to fill with caulk even if you use backer rod. Maybe use a low expanding spray foam instead, but check the manufacturers requirement for expansion gaps. If you decide to use the adhesive, make sure you dry fit everything first. You may find that you have to scribe the baseboard to get it to fit snug to the floor and be level. You can also use quarter round molding to hide any unevenness in the flooring. I have never bothered using adhesive on baseboard before, but I think you should still nail the baseboard to studs. Mark the studs and use an 8d or 16 gauge finish nail.
I would use quarter-round to hide the gap. That space would take a lot of caulk.
The little pieces of wood are spacers to keep the baseboard level. As Ann suggested, fill that gap on the outside of the baseboard with 1/4 round. That is too much for caulk and it might be a challenge to apply it evenly.
Using liquid nail will work but it will be very difficult to remove if you ever need to in the future. Everything I've used it on adhered so well that it was destroyed when we removed it. Most of the time we use finishing nails and punch them in.
As for the top, I would be tempted to put the baseboards back in their original spot and add shoe molding or quarter round at the bottom. But any paintable caulk should work just fine.
Here's a post that might help https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FbM3ZUkcHDo
You can use caulk to fill the gaps. It will prevent any insects from getting in. Don't glue the baseboard back on. It will be hard to remove and damage the wall if you ever need to remove it in the future. Baseboard is nailed on with finish nails, then countersunk. Then install quarter round molding nailing into the baseboard and not the floor. Fill the nail holes with wood filler and a finger. The wood pieces were used to elevate the drywall above the subfloor to allow for movement of the subfloor without movement of the drywall. An old concept that wasn't needed.
I would put a backer rod into the gaps then caulk. You do want to keep the drafts and bugs out. For a finishing touch use quarter round.
There is a product called Insta Trim. This is a flexable trim that doesn't mold and has a much longer life then caulking.
I would just use a nail gun to put them back on.
Just use caulk to fill the gaps, it'll be easiest. It would be better to nail the baseboard or any trim back on instead of gluing in case you need to remove it again. If the trim is wood, it needs to expand and contract so glue would be problematic.
I would prefer to just go with caulking for filling the gaps. Somewhat if you are to use liquid, it will be hard for you in the longer run since it will be difficult to remove.
Hello. Sometimes using the styrofoam coil ( see link below) that comes in different diameters can be pushed into gaps with a putty knife- then…. caulk applied. It can save on the volume of caulk used to fill gaps. We used a battery operated nail gun to place our baseboards.
https://www.amazon.com/M-D-Building-Products-71464-Backer/dp/B000BQS90G/ref=asc_df_B000BQS90G/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198083855436&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13465389284196301862&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9008412&hvtargid=pla-376102324207&psc=1
I agree this could be a lot of caulk.
I would definitely use a backing rod in some places and buy Clear Painters Caulk (water clean up).
Consuder buying a Combo Electric Stapler/Brad Nailer for your trim. They’re affordable and take several sizes of brad nails & staples.
The large gaps can be filled with foam insulation rope. It comes in all sizes, and is used for insulating gaps in windows and doors. Get one that doesn't take up all the space as you will want to fill the rest of the gap with caulking. Any caulking will fill the rest. Ask a the paint counter for which is better. That is usually where the caulking is kept. Fill the remainder of the gap with the caulking and smooth with your finger or with a wet rag. Add 1/4 round to finish the edge. Paint or stain before you put the quarter round in or add a baseboard trim. I agree with filling the gap before you finish. I would not use liquid nail to as it will destroy the dry wall or anything else it adheres to if you ever need to remove it. Use small finishing nails.
You could caulk the opening in the bottom and add trim to the caulk wile it’s wet just add a little extra then wipaway spillage the caulk will hold trim in place
Hello, Why not fit new deeper base boards, timber or Vinyl or pre-finished mdf.
Hi! For big gaps, I like to fill first with spray foam or insulation. You might consider a thin strip of wood over it. I recently removed a section of molding that was attached with liquid nails. The wall was damaged from the glue and had to be repaired. I wouldn't use it on a long run of molding. Take care!
I believe the blocks were used as spacers when the floor was installed. They should have been removed. Baseboard is designed to cover gap between sheetrock and flooring. No caulk should be put in the gap. The sheetrock is installed with a small gap at the floor, so it doesn't wick up water in case of a spill or mopping.
If you ever need to remove those baseboards removing ones nailed in would be much easier then removing some glued on with liquid nails. They very well could splinter with the liquid nails.
Hi Tmichel: One thing, and the easiest, is to put down some quarter round molding, or even new molding all around? You can even use a 1/2 or 1/4 inch wide board, as wide as you need and as long as you can get it and then put quarter round or something more decorative on top of that. I'd use trim nails, they are long and thin and come in colours. You can even nail them into those little pieces of wood :) I wouldn't use glue as it's too permanent. Then paint or stain to your hearts desire :)
I would suggest you purchase new baseboards. Real wood, or Polyethylene, NO MDF (MDF exposed to any moisture, i.e.; mopping) will cause it to swell, paint will bubble up and they'll look te
Purchase NEW Wood, Polyethylene Baseboards. DO NOT USE MDF, MDF will swell, paint bubbling up/off if exposed to ANY AMOUNT of moisture, i.e.; mopping.
Your current baseboards look chewed up and splintered! I don't think they're worth saving, especially since you've already done 99% of the work! I'd suggest purchasing 3" to 6" smooth baseboards rather than any with beveling.
You could get a nice decorative molding and place it on top of the gap and nail in.
Hello Tmichel, hope this helps. You can get many thongs to fix this,
Self adhesive Caulking strips, moldable silicone putty, or even wood filler