Can i use a varnish over Super Glaze?

Jerome Schwab
by Jerome Schwab
I was making a table and i was finishing the table top with Superglaze. About 80 percent of the the table top has dried however the last 20 percent is being difficult. Its been over a month of letting it dry. I was thinking about spraying a varnish over it. Bad idea?
  5 answers
  • Bad idea. If the finish is not drying and the surface is sticky, covering it with a sealant will not help. It will only make it harder for you to strip the entire finish off and start again. It sounds as though the original finish you applied was not mixed well or it was faulty from the start. Check with the manufacture of the product used first. They may have a hot line in which to answer why it has not dried yet. Putting anything over it will only slow down the drying process and will end up failing as you cannot install one product over another product that is still wet.
  • KMS Woodworks KMS Woodworks on Apr 30, 2013
    my first question is why did want to use this stuff in the first place?...are you embedding items in the finish? When I finish table tops I use a wiping poly, as it about as simple as it gets. the dry times run about 4 hours or so per coat, but I normally just do one coat per day. with a rub out with some 320 grit before the final applications. Super glaze is a 2 part resin / hardener mix, and it would seem that not enough hardener was used or it was poorly mixed. Other people have had this problem
    How do I remove a failed Epoxy pour from a table top?
  • Jerome Schwab Jerome Schwab on Apr 30, 2013
    Well, my roommate used Superglaze before and was pleased with the outcome and look of it. We took old sheet music and used wallpaper glue to stick the paper to the table top and then used the Superglaze to cover it. Perhaps the wall paper glue wasnt all the way dry or maybe the paper is blocking air flow through the table and the glaze wont set. I dont know. its rather irritating. Might just get a piece of glass and cover the damned thing, but id rather not because glass is pretty pricey.
  • KMS Woodworks KMS Woodworks on May 01, 2013
    If the table design allows...the glass would work. I have seen lots of tables where a lip exists all around the edge, so the glass sets just below the edge. This design is two fold...the first is it keeps the glass from moving about, and the second is it protects the glass from breakage or injury to people. Getting the edges of the glass polished, not only looks good but adds much in the safety dept. Table design with this removable top allows you to change things that displayed underneath. As far as pricing can take a look at a resale yard in your area. I picked up some glass that was used for display case shelving for about $3 for a 2 foot by 2 foot piece. Get the glass first and design around that.
  • Elizabeth Elizabeth on Jun 22, 2019

    I had the same problem, with similar product to superglaze.........called Envirotex lite pour on high gloss. It is a two part mix, the resin and the hardener. Had two soft spots after 72 hours. so researched it on youtube and found a waaaaaaay less laborious and less stressful solution to buying a heat gun to soften the epoxy and strip it when softened. My project, a wood table from 1960s. I didnt want to scratch and damage the table by scraping the warm epoxy off. So picked the lesser of two evils. Took a hairdryer on medium heat about a hands length above the soft uncured areas to help crystalize the areas. I saw little balls form. But that was okay because the next step with sand paper fixed it. Waited a couple hours and they hardened. Then waited a day for more hardening. Then scuffed the entire dry glazed area with 180 grit sand paper by hand. sanded the grainy balls till that area felt completely smooth. This is very important. I removed dust with tack cloth. It will look cloudy. this is normal. This creates what is called "tooth", like scratchy side of velcro which will connect with the soft smooth part of velcro......, to help attach another (new layer of the epoxy). I spent another $30 on a new Envirotex lite kit, mixed it super thoroughly ......a little extra actually. And just poured over it. You will see cloudy cured epoxy layer under disappear as soon as second epoxy layer is added. just wait for recommended drying time. It worked for me. my table is beautiful now. two epoxy layers later. so if superglaze is like envirotex lite (one part resin, and equal part hardener) should work the same. If you to DOUBLE CHECK , which I recommend......explain on the Homedepot superglaze product page, your problem or even my suggested solution......or see if others had your problem, and can give you a better solution. best wishes. Hope this helps.