How To Build A Farmhouse Style Coffee Bar Station

Laura
by Laura
7 Materials
$100
5 Days
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Grab your favorite cup of Joe because this week I’m going to help you enjoy it in style! It’s taken me about a week to finish this project and I’m sharing all the details for how I built this farmhouse style coffee bar station below.


I did my best to estimate the cost for this project, but there are many variables involved. Your final cost will be determined by how many tools & supplies you have on hand, if you need to purchase your furniture and your skill level with DIY. As for the time, I worked on and off for about 5 days. There was a lot of "waiting for the paint to dry" time involved.

First up, I tracked down a table that was the right dimensions for my space. My son was using this old sofa table for his Nerf guns in our basement. It was in bad shape and very dated, but had the right dimensions for the space and it was free! I checked the consignment stores and thrift stores and did find a couple of other options. But in the end, I knew this was the right one.


There are many different ways to build a farmhouse sign. I wanted to reuse a sign that I had previously made. I did love the original sign, but I wanted to use this space for my coffee bar and the sign was the perfect size for the space.

STEP 1: REFINISH THE TABLE

This table had a laminate surface, but I knew that after I painted it and added a wood top, it would look good. When painting laminate, you need to prepare your surface well or the paint will scrape off easily. I started by lightly sanding the entire surface with a sanding sponge to rough it up a bit. Then I vacuumed and wiped it down with furniture Krud Kutter to ensure it was clean.


Next, I used Zinsser 1-2-3 Bullseye Primer. It’s important to use primer when painting laminate. It holds to the surface better than paint and will be more durable over time.


Then, I sprayed the table legs with three light coats (the whole can) of chalk paint in white. I prefer Rustoleum Chalked Spray Paint in Linen White. You can use any chalk style paint. If working indoors, purchase the Ultra Matte version and use a 2.5″ Purdy brush.


Finally, I sprayed the piece down with two coats of Rustoleum Painter’s Touch Matte Clear to protect the finish. This seals in the chalk paint. If you prefer, you can use a chalk paint wax, but it is not as durable and will need to be re-coated in the future.

STEP 2: CREATE THE TABLETOP AND SHELF

I wanted to give this table a weathered wood appearance. So I purchased two project panels from the home improvement store.


The top panel is a 16″ X 48″ stain grade panel and the shelf is a 12″ X 48 panel. They were already the right size for my table, but I did trim the shelf down to line up with the table legs. Then I used my jig saw to cut notches on the shelf, so it would fit around the table legs.


Next, I lightly sanded all of the cut edges to make them smooth. Then I wiped the wood clean with a damp rag and let it dry.

STEP 3: FINISH AND PROTECT YOUR WOOD

It is actually very simple to get the driftwood finish on the wood panels. The first step is to create a paint wash using a light grey paint. I used a sample of BEHR Ultra Satin Toasty Gray and mixed in water. The container was only about 1/3 full and I added about a tablespoon of water to it. Mix it up and test it on your paint stick. Brush on the wash and then wipe it off with a lint free rag. Let it completely dry. In the image above, the top board is finished with the paint wash.


To get the final driftwood finish (the bottom board above), you add stain over the paint wash. For the stain, I used Varathane, classic penetrating wood stain in Early American. You’ll want to wear rubber gloves for the staining process. Dip your blue shop towel in the stain and wipe it on the wood (over the dried paint wash) in the direction of the grain. Once the surface is completely covered, go back and wipe the stain off in the direction of the grain. Let it completely dry before handling it again.


Finally, I added a top coat to the panels using Polycrylic in a satin finish. Brush on the poly, then go back and smooth it in the direction of the grain. Let dry and repeat. I added three coats of poly on both shelves. Since this is a beverage station, it’s important to seal and protect the wood well.

Here is a close-up of the driftwood finish on the shelf.

STEP 4: CREATE THE COFFEE SIGN

Instructions for how I built the sign are on the blog. I've also made the cut file & printable available as a free download along with instructions to cut and add the vinyl to your board. There are different ways to make a sign with vinyl, I prefer to paint my signs and remove the vinyl.


Prime and paint your hardboard and stain your wood before you assemble the pieces together. I repainted my hardboard with a custom mixed gray color. I wanted the letters to be charcoal gray instead of black. Let your paint dry. Then measure and placed your vinyl on the gray paint using transfer paper.


Once you press your vinyl in place on the sign, go back over it with your roller and the same gray paint. Off-load the paint on a blue shop towel. When the gray paint is dry, roll on the white in all directions over the letters. This step seals in the letters and will prevent the white from bleeding under the vinyl.


Add your first coat of white paint. Again, offload the paint for your first coat. After the first coat dries, you can paint directly over the image. I ended up using three coats of the white paint/primer in one to completely cover the gray.

STEP 5: REMOVE THE VINYL


Once the paint is dry, you can begin to remove the vinyl. I used the spatula tool from my Silhouette (see image below). Holding the spatula parallel to the sign, slip it under one of the edges of the vinyl. I found this method works better than trying to pick off the vinyl. Once you figure it out, removing the vinyl goes quickly. The sign can now be assembled and hung.


STEP 6: CREATE THE CUP SHELF

Before I began to assemble the shelf and hooks, I painted and stained the wood to match the table. I also added all of the hooks before I attached the 1 X 6 face plate to the shelf.

I had three light switches along the wall and I never liked the way they looked. I’ve been trying to find a way to hide them for a long time. After some thought, I decided to make a shelf with a face frame on it, to hide the switches, but leave an open gap at the bottom, so they can still be used.

When the sign was complete, I rehung it in the same spot on the wall. Then I drew a pencil line along the bottom of the sign and took it down off the wall. I held a level up to the pencil line to make sure the line was level and strait.


I used a stud finder to locate and mark the location of the studs in the wall. Then I ripped a board to 1 3/4 inches on my table-saw. Holding the board against the wall, I drilled a hole through the board and into the wall. My drill bit was only long enough to mark a spot on the drywall, so I took the board down and finished drilling into the stud.

Using my Dewalt Driver, I added the screw to the board, so it was just coming out the other side. I lined the screw up with the hole and secured the board to the wall.


Now that the board was secure, I drilled the other two holes through the board and into the wall. Then I removed the board again and finished drilling the other two holes. Finally, I secured the board to the wall/studs in all three places.


I added a block on each end of the shelf using my brad nailer from the top down. Then I added a 1 X 6 face frame to the shelf using my 18 gauge brad nailer and wood glue. You can see the side shot of the shelf above.

I have a free printable and full tutorial on how I made those cute coffee cups. For more information on this coffee bar and for your free coffee sign download, visit my blog.


Do you like learning budget friendly ways to spruce up your home? Check out my latest DIY projects.


I hope this project helps you reuse and recycle what you have to create a beautiful space of your own.


Laura

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