SW's ProClassic vs. BM's Advance

Question

I'm painting the kitchen cabinets and I'm looking for a good paint. I've heard good things about both of these lines and I'm curious if anyone has used both of them and can give me input on them.

Things to know:
1. I'm using Olympic's High Gloss Enamel in off-the-shelf white for crown and the board and batten between cupboards. This paint is not a glossy as I expected, but still has a bit more sheen than I'd want on the cupboards and the board and batten area.
2. The bottom cupboards will be painted in SW's All Surface Enamel (latex, satin finish) because it was the only one that could be stained the dark color (SW - Iron Ore) I was going for on the bottom.
3. The bulk of my cabinetry is opposite two full length windows, so sheen is important. I would like the durability of a higher sheen without the gloss of one, otherwise I'll need to wear sunglasses in my kitchen during the day.

Any recommendations?

Patricia Presto/On The Surface · Answer

Pretty cabinets! I like the Pro Classic in Satin sheen and the crown in semi-gloss (not high gloss - I think that tends to look plastic - semi gloss gives an oil look but like the fact you say it is not as glossy - I'll give it a try!). Also,why are you staining the lower cabinets in Iron Ore and not painting them? I paint Iron Ore quite frequently on exterior doors and shutters, and it looks rich and beautiful. I'm just curious? I can't wait to see your final result! Please post!

Suesan - Frou FruGal · Answer

I'm painting the lower cupboards in the Iron Ore. I have a couple of areas in my kitchen with barn wood that has a chippy black paint on them and black appliances. I thought the Iron Ore would tie them together and ground the bottom cupboards. My floor is light and with the dark countertops, I just think the darker base cupboards is the way to go.

My concern with the satin sheen is the durability on cupboards. The paint rep at Sherwin Williams was quite insistent that no matter the brand of paint, a satin finish will not be as durable over the long run as the higher sheens.

Maly Porter · Answer

I love what you've done so far! The board and batten for the backsplash area really rocks! I've had good success with Benjamin Moore in a satin finish for trim, but the trick one rep gave me may be why - he said for high use areas inside, use their exterior paint! I would guess to stand up to weather, it would have to be pretty hardy. Also, application affects sheen. If you brush it on, it has less sheen than rolled. If you want smoother, add an extender to help it settle and give you more work time. I'm sure what ever you do, it's going to look great - remember to post 'after' pics!

FurnitureWorks · Answer

The SW paint rep is right, somewhat. The satin finish won't be as durable, true, but really it's the latex that won't be as durable as an oil-based paint.

I paint furniture for a living and use Benjamin Moore's Advance almost exclusively because of its durability and clean up. I have also used the SW ProClassic. Here's what I love/some tips about the Advance:

1. I use the satin finish and I'd say it's a bit shinier than a latex satin finish, but not much. You're not going to get a high sheen. The next step up, though, is semi gloss, which might be too shiny for you. I'd stick with satin if you're worried about glare. You can always have the paint store do a comparison for you, or get a tester of each and try them out in your home to see which works for you.

2. The Advance is amazingly durable AFTER IT CURES, which can take up to two weeks. I tell all my clients to not set anything on their pieces or even look at it funny until two weeks (at least) have gone by. Then, it's as durable as an oil-based paint.

3. Advance can be tinted in every color BM carries, even the dark ones.

4. The Advance is a water-based alkyd, which just means it's an oil paint dressed up like a latex. It paints on like a latex, cleans up like a latex, but acts like an oil paint.

5. There's no smell.

I'm also an interior designer and the painters I've worked with choose Advance for cabinetry nearly every time.

As for the ProClassic, it has the same qualities. I've noticed it has a bit more odor, is a bit thinner, and takes more coats than the Advance.

Good luck!

Suesan - Frou FruGal · Answer

I forgot about the extender and I've read several things from people that recommend it. I will definitely pick some up. For the board and batten areas, I use a combination of brush and roller.

Kris Kowalski · Answer

So if you use the Advance, you don't need to put anything over it. Just be sure it cures for 2+ weeks?

Also, do you sand in between coats or even initially? Primer? I have the hideous oak '80's cabinets I want to do.

Kris Kowalski · Answer

P.S. Definitely post pictures! I love what you've done so far!

Laura · Answer

Following

Jim L · Answer

If you can find a painter who will spray the cabinets, that will be fantastic! Since we not longer have lead in paint, it streaks...spraying is the best!

Jim L · Answer

Susan, I would advise you to hire a painter to spray the doors...one who has a spray 'room'. If you do this, you will NEVER regret it! (Trust me on this!)

Betsy Bodrero · Answer

I'd paint the cupboards white, change out the handles to something dainty and enjoy !

Cathy B · Answer

I recommend cabinet paint.  I thought it was wonderful.

Sue Hebert · Answer

Hi Connie Carroll,

I sent that message before I had read a reply below it. I do want to thank you for taking the time to send this information to me. I will certainly heed your advice on this matter.

Karen Klager · Answer

My husband & I used Sherwin Williams paint that was recommended for cabinets. It's been almost a year & I'm not sorry in our choice. My husband took the doors off the cabinets & painted them in the basement. I did the base units.

Cathy B · Answer

I bought in a local paint store.  If you look up their website, there is a tool to find locations that carry it.  It is a little more expensive, but I thought it was well worth it.

Patty S · Answer

There is a new product out by Rustoleum. It is a kit, deglosser, paint, glaze and final finish. I am going to use it on my cabinets. Many colors to choose from. I found the brochure at Home Depot. They also have a countertop finish which is also a kit.

Wendell Davis · Answer

I used Valspar paint, I have done a lot of painting and it is the best I have seen since lead paint was here.

Jason Miller · Answer

The advance is going to be better than the pro classic. I work at a Ben Moore store and we sell both the cabinet coat and Ben Moore's Advance. BM also owns the Insul-x that makes the Cabinet coat. We sell leaps and bounds more Advance than the cabinet coat for cabinets, furniture, trim, and vanities. One of the reasons people love the advance paint is that is a self leveling paint that levels out to , minimize brush strokes to give you a smoother, flatter finish.

Centrd · Answer

Just found Nuvo Cabinet Paint - Claims you can paint your cabinets in one day! http://nuvocabinetpaint.com/index.html You don't need to remove your doors, sand or prime. Nice colors, too. Wish their website was a little more informative.

Linda · Answer

My cabinets are really old and I could not afford to replace. Bought new handles and I painted my kitchen cabinets white with the only lead paint on the market. I used Rustoleum and it worked super. It has been two years and I do need to touch up a spot or two. They wash up so nice.

Clara Williams Dossett · Answer

Starting this journey myself, not enough money in the budget to gut and replace the cabinets or to pay a pro. Attempting to use milk paint, first pass looking good, but getting great advice here for baths. My first DYI and it is scary.

SW's ProClassic vs. BM's Advance

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SW's ProClassic vs. BM's Advance

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