When your husband tells you he needs a tacky Christmas sweater for tomorrow's work party....you try your best to throw something together. With a sweater he already had but never wears and a few dollar store finds, I was able to make him a Christmas Tree Sweater that lights up! Here's how:
Who doesn't love a great thrift store find?! Whenever I get the chance to go to the local "Bargain Barn", I am never disappointed. This time around, I found a large mirror on sale, but I wasn't loving the frame. Nothing a little paint and elbow grease can't fix!
Vintage Truck Decor has grown to be extremely popular over the past year or two. Whether it's for fall, Christmas, or all year round, this DIY tutorial will show you how to create a Vintage Truck Wood Sign all your own :) Have you heard of Chalk Couture and what it can do to save you time and money with home decor projects? I have fallen in love with these AWESOME REUSABLE transfers that make it easy to make home decor including wood signs. I own a small business making custom decor including wood signs, and the process is time consuming and difficult if you don't learn all the ins and outs of using a die cutter machine along with all the other materials you need. With Chalk Couture, it's fast and easy! No vinyl, no die cutter, no modge podge, no paint brushes. It's simple. I'm now able to make all kinds of decor (both for myself and my business) in a fraction of the time!
Making faux framed wood signs is one of my favorite things to do when creating a sign. It is more cost effective (since you don’t need all the tools to make a “normal” frame), the sign is lighter making it easier to hang, and it gives the sign a unique look! For those that are just starting in your sign making journey, this is a great way to do it!
Cozy up your front door with a custom coir doormat that any guest (and you) will love! Custom doormats can be expensive, especially if they are handpainted/made. I love the idea of having a custom doormat to welcome guest and to spruce up our outdoor home decor. Here you will find the steps needed to create your very own doormat for the fraction of the price ;)
The Step by Step Process is as follows:STEP 1 : Acquire a spool As mentioned above, you can find these for FREE at many different locations. Try asking your local hardware store, home improvement store, commercial electrician or any other industrial business in your area. I recommend the 36″ spools for best results.STEP 2: Tools and supplies Gather everything you will need to complete this project. You may also need a measuring tape and a screwdriver/power drill.STEP 3: Clean your spool Clean both the front and back of the spool of any mud, dust, dirt, and grime that has collected on it over the years. You can even take a hose or pressure washer to it if it is really needing a good cleaning. The only issue in doing so, is waiting for it to dry before continuing with the clock making process (which can take a day or two). If you have a newer spool, and want to make your spool look more distressed, I suggest taking a chain or hammer to it to give it more dents and scratches to add more character. This can be done during the this step.STEP 4: Stain Once your spool is clean, put on some rubber gloves and grab your stain (or paint)! This is the fun part because this is where you get to decide how you want your clock to look! You can stain each board a different color, do it all in a natural barn wood stain, or even paint it all black or white. What ever your style is, this is where you get to bring it to life!Make sure to stain/paint all the nooks and crannies. Also, note that I only stain the front and sides. I do not stain the back of the clock. This will save you time and money!STEP 5 : Let DryIf the weather permits, keep your stained spool outside so that it can dry more efficiently. The stain smell is also almost non existent when everything is done outside. If this isn’t possible, make sure it is laying down in a save designated space free from any dust, dirt, or scratches. The drying process can take up to two days depending on what type of stain or paint you used.STEP 6: Place your stencils Finding proper number placement always start with the 12, then from there you place the 6, then the 3, and then the 9 O clock.You can either stop here or add all the rest. If you want to add the rest of the numbers, move on to 1 and 7. Next will be 11 and 5 and then lastly you will have 2 O clock and 8 O clock making sure each corresponding number lines up correctly.Tape edges of stencils to ensure crisp lines and no mess ups!If you are wondering where you can get stencils for this project – please contact me! I am more than happy to make them for you.STEP 7: Paint and let dry I prefer using spray paint for this process. Spray paint goes on light, even, and easy. But, if you have paint on hand that you would like to use, I highly recommend using a foam paint brush or even a foam makeup applicator to paint over your stencil. Do so in a dabbing fashion instead of the usual strokes. This will ensure you get nice straight crisp lines when you peal up your stencils.STEP 8: Remove the stencils After the paint is done drying (a couple of hours), you can then tear of the stencils!It isn’t necessary, but if you wanted to clear finish or polyurethane your clock, this is where you would do so. I don’t put a finishing coat on the ones I make, but it can definitely be something you can do if you feel it’s necessary.STEP 9 : Attach your clock kit This is the most important part because this is obviously what makes your clock functional! FYI: You want to make sure when you order your clock hands that the shaft is long enough to go through the center of your spool and that the clock hands are large enough for your clock! The one I have listed above is a 24″ hand with a 11/16th long shaft. STEP 10: Attach your hardwareThe final step!Make sure you have hardware that is durable enough to hold your spool! Spool tops vary in weigh, so take a estimate as to how much yours weighs and get the proper hooks needed. You may need to attach 2 D hooks and add a wire. Or if you prefer not to hang it up, you can lean in up against the wall on a display table or dresser. Just make sure it is positioned securely.There you have it! I hope you enjoy making your very own signature piece for your home. Please let me know how yours turn out and if you have any questions regarding this process below in the comments! Or check out the Prairie Pine Designs blog for more inspiration at www.prairiepinedesigns.com. Happy DIYing!
If you have a little one on the way or are on the hunt for a stylish highchair, I highly suggest finding a wood highchair (found mine at a garage sale!) and follow these steps!You will only need SIX things to turn your shabby chair into a farmhouse chic keepsake.Material Needed:(2) 12 oz cans of spray paintI really like using Rust-oleum brand, so that is what I would suggest using. I also suggest finding a paint that also is a primer. That is why I love this paint so much! Their is no need to prime your furniture before painting, and it goes on so smoothly. You will need at least TWO 12 oz cans. I was able to spray my chair with exactly two cans. But, if you wood takes the paint differently, you may need THREE.(1) 1/2 Pint sized can of stainI used Minwax Dark Walnut for the tray. Dark Walnut is one of my all time favorite stain colors and my go-to for almost anything. If you don’t already of a can of stain on hand, I highly suggest this brand and color.(1) 11.5 oz Spray Can of Clear Semi-Gloss PolyurethaneIf you already happen to have a can of clear polyurethane or varnish on hand, please use what you have! It doesn’t make a big difference if it is gloss, semi gloss, or satin finish. This step is important though, and I wouldn’t go without it. A polyurethane or vanish ensure that the tray of the highchair will hold up to spills, scratches, and stains for years to come.You will need a sander to sand off any and all finishes on the tray of the highchair. I love using my Black & Decker Orbital Sander, but anything will do. If you plan on hand sanding, I suggest using one of these.(1) 80 grit sheet of sand paper It will depend on how much sanding your tray will need, but I only needed to use ONE sheet of sand paper to sand the entire tray before staining.Lastly, you will need masking/painters tape. This will be used to tape off any metal parts and/or safety straps that you do not want to get paint on.Now that you know the SIX things you will need to refinish your highchair, it’s time to get to work!First, you will need to give your chair a good cleaning. I did this by taking it outside and spraying it down with the garden hose. I then took a bucket of hot water with some dish soap and a rag and started to scrub. If you happen to have a chair like mine, you will want to make sure you get in between all of the nooks of the back rest. This was the most difficult part of the whole process.Once your chair is nice and clean, dry it off with a towel or let it dry in the sun.Next, find a safe spot to spray paint. Since it was so beautiful out this last weekend, I went ahead and did this project on my lawn. If you are contained to an apartment or garage, make sure you lie down newspaper or a drop clothe to protect your floor!The final piece of prep is to tape off any parts of the chair that you do not want to spray paint. I taped off the safety harness strap and the side rails (the metal part) that the tray slides onto.Now it’s time for the fun! Start painting! I started at the legs and worked my way up making sure the inside dowels and the bottom of the seat were all painted. As stated above, you will need at least TWO cans of paint, if not THREE to cover the entire chair in 2 or 3 coats of paint.While your chair is drying, you can now sand down the tray with your sander and 80 grit sand paper. Make sure everything is sanded off, including the bottom and sides like the example shown below.Once everything is sanded off smoothly, take a shop rag (old towel, t-shirt, or sock) and stain the top and bottom of the tray. Place in a safe place for drying. Allow at least 24 hours for complete dry time.After the paint is dry on the chair (a few hours or overnight), it’s time to polyurethane it. This doesn’t require a specific technique. I personally started at the bottom and worked my way up just as if I were spray painting it making sure I coat the seat really well as that is will be the area with the most wear and tear. Allow for an hour or two between each coat. I applied three coats on mine.The last step is to clear coat the tray. Once the stain is dry, coat the bottom of the tray and let dry. Once the bottom is dry, coat the top with 3-5 coats. It is important to coat the tray with as many coats as your can to protect it from the moisture of spills and colors of stains from food.After buying the chair for $5.00 and all the supplies needed, I spent $19. I’d say that’s a great deal for a “farmhouse chic” highchair that you can use for generations to come!After