The Making of a Craft Studio (III) - If You Build It, She Will Come!

2 Materials
2 Weeks

In part II of The Making of a Craft Studio, I showed you how to use Ikea's Pax Planner to design a storage solution for your craft studio (Canadian and US version links are on my blog).

Today, I'm going to highlight installing the cabinets, some of the indispensable tools we used in the installation, installation tips specific to drawers and how we adapted an Ikea pullout to work at the bottom of one of our cabinets. I'm also going to show you how I've started to use the cabinets to organize all my craft goodies and tools!

If you build it, she will come!


Ikea's instructions are quite good so I'll just hit on some of the highlights to be aware of when putting your units together.

The first thing is to be sure you have enough headroom to build it on the ground and then stand it up. For the 79 1/4" high units that we built, you will need a minimum ceiling height of 80 3/4". If you don't, Ikea provides instructions for building it upright too. The front of each cabinet has adjustable feet in case your floor happens to be out of level.

When you're hammering on the backing, Ikea provides a great little gadget to prevent you from missing the nail and hitting your fingers instead. I don't know about you, buy I need my fingers intact to craft!

Insert a nail into the holder, squeeze the sides then hammer away stopping just short of the top of the plastic so you still have room to pull it away before you finish hammering the rest of the nail in.

Hammering on the back

Once everything is built and placed where you want it, now is the time to screw each cabinet together. This is where it got a little frustrating for us and where you'll want to heed the following warning:

In Ikea's instructions, the diagram they provide for where to screw together the cabinets is somewhat deceiving. We actually misinterpreted it which called for a complete do-over when we discovered our error! Looking at the picture below, we thought you could screw the cabinets together any where along hole 1 through 5. However if you look REAL close, you can see the number 5 is slightly enlarged and the drill is pointed at that hole. Hole #5 is the only place you should be using to screw the cabinets together if you are using doors! We used hole number 3 which interfered with the hinge placement for the doors, so we (meaning my husband!) had to take EVERYTHING apart, re-drill, clamp and screw..... again.

Wouldn't it be better if they put an X through numbers 1 - 4? I don't know about you, but I can barely read these days and I had to squint pretty hard to to count the actual number of holes once we realized we did it wrong. I actually got on the phone to customer service to suggest that the pictorial could be improved, but it fell on deaf ears - they felt it was fine as-is.

Use clamps to keep the cabinets stable as you drill and screw them together.

Beware of which hole to attach units together

As I mentioned in my previous post, once your cabinets are screwed together, you MUST also secure them to the wall at the back. My cabinets are going to be fully loaded and HEAVY; the last thing you want is for it to come crashing down on yourself or a child because it's not fastened to the wall.

Ideally you should screw the cabinets into a stud. Because we were building the room from scratch, and knew the cabinets were going against that particular wall, my husband inserted blocking at the correct height along the full length of the wall.

Here's how you fasten the cabinets to the wall: put a screw through the middle of the metal bracket at the back of the cabinet. Slip on the keyhole plate as shown, then tighten the screw until it's tight against the plate. Then snap on the plastic cover.... wash, rinse and repeat for the rest of the cabinets (so to speak) and your cabinets will be safe and secure!

Securing units to wall; don't miss this step!

Before we installed our cabinets, I made the decision to install baseboard in the niche where they would be placed. I didn't want to leave the baseboard off: in case we ever sell the house in the future and take the cabinets with us, that niche would be nicely finished off like the rest of the room for the new homeowners.

By installing baseboard all around, it prevented the cabinets from being able to be pushed in so they are flat up against the back wall.

We might have been able to notch the cabinets out on the bottom at the back so they would clear the baseboard, but they are over 5" high and I didn't want to cut that much out. My husband thought when we installed the screws, as shown above, that the cabinets might rack and twist a bit if we over-tightened them.

To prevent that from happening, we cut and installed spacers in between each cabinet (mounted beside, not directly in back of where we were screwing) to hold them out from the wall the same distance as the baseboard. We made sure to mark the strapping behind the drywall on some green tape.

Then we pinned each block behind the cabinet so half of it was sticking out to support the next cabinet beside it once it was put into place. The photos below show the blocks going in, then a side view showing the consistent gap and then all four cabinets installed.

Installing spacers when you have baseboard

I should mention that we could have trimmed everything out with baseboard and/or crown molding, to make it look built-in, but I didn't want a built-in look. I intentionally left a gap between the cabinet and the wall on the right side so I could store tall rolls of paper, which I frequently use. I also wanted to add some additional hanging space outside the closed storage unit with a Komplement Valet Hanger so I could hang patterns-in-progress and keep them accessible while I work.

Once the shell is built, the doors can be attached and the fun part begins; building and installing all the interior components! It might have been easier to leave the doors off while we were installing the interior, but I preferred being able to see where the door hinges would impact the final placements.

This is what the unit looked like a few weeks ago after my husband finished off the doors. He also finished off this little beauty in a niche that's covering up one of the support posts holding up our house. It's a nice way to display my vintage iron collection.

Completed cabinets - before adding interiors

Indispensable Tools

The things we found most useful to help with assembly were the clamps you saw above, a battery operated drill (with a light), drill extensions, and plastic sleeve (see Installation Tips below this section). Be sure to set the drill at the lowest setting (#1 in our case) so you don't drive the screws too deep or strip them.

Another thing to be mindful of, when installing the Ikea lack cabinet in particular, is that you will need a looooong screwdriver extension. Because the hanging plate is located right at the top of the shelf, you'll be installing it close to the ceiling (especially if you're installing it in the basement where ceiling heights tend to be lower). Access, and being able to actually see where you're drilling and attaching, will be an issue unless you have drill bit extensions. This is where it's also helpful to have a drill with a guide light on it - or a friend to lend a helping hand by shining a flashlight into the gap between the shelf and ceiling.

Use long drill bit extension to get into gap!

Installation Tips - Drawers

Ikea packs their drawer glides in two different coloured plastic sleeves: blue and clear, which is great for figuring out where each one goes! The colours differentiate between which side of the drawer the slide will be installed - blue indicates right and clear is left. Ikea makes it SO easy to get it right!

After dropping a few screws while trying to install the drawer actual glide, we used was a plastic sleeve over the drill bit. It prevents your screws from falling and getting lost as you attach them! My husband was raving about it; it's a real time saver.

Plastic sleeve prevents screws from dropping!

When you're installing pull-outs, don't forget to put on the plastic caps - before the screws. It helps to have all the attachments in one spot before you start working (we forgot to install one pair and had to unscrew and reassemble because we weren't as diligent about keeping our parts together)!

Even though I printed a detailed plan from the Pax Planner (which even shows which holes to use!), I made sure I had some of the actual items on-site that I would be storing. As we were assembling, we could double check the heights of these items to make sure things would fit. Here you can see I'll be storing some plastic bins on the roll-out. Before I installed the solid drawer directly above, I place the bins on the rollout to see if I would have enough clearance. Better to do it once and do it right!

Have items on-hand to judge clearances

Here is the progress so far. The glass front drawers are great for storing all my sewing thread and spools of yarn for my knitting machines. I can easily see what I have and keep these items dust free! Compare that to clutter of the pegboard I was using in my old studio; I'm so thrilled at how it turned out!

The first solid drawer below the glass ones will store all my sewing patterns. I'll likely design some kind of DIY divider system to keep them neat and tidy. Then I've got closed storage at the bottom with covered bins on a pullout that can easily be accessed when needed.

New vs. old comparison - yarn/ thread storage

Ikea has these great felt trays for the large drawers - they come three to a pack. I didn't see them in the Planner, and I missed them online before I went to purchase my items, but I immediately snapped some up when I saw them in the store! They're perfect to keep my sewing hams and yarns (soon to come).

Easter 'ham'

The pullouts shown below are PERFECT for storing all my tools. I'll have separate pullouts for stained glass tools and various other tools I'll use on a regular basis. I'll be customizing these pullouts even further once I'm more organized (tutorial to come!)

You'll notice that I'm still missing a pull-out in the pictures; when we were ready to purchase, everything was in stock when we printed our shopping list in the morning, however Ikea was sold out by the time we got there mid-day...drats! Hubs has a mission this week to scout them out at another location, so I'll just have to be patient until then :)

A place for everything........

......and everything in its place!

Customizing an Ikea Pullout

As mentioned in my previous post, the second-hand glass doors we bought for the two end cabinets had hinges that were located too low on the door, which meant we couldn't install an Ikea pullout using the hardware supplied.

With a little finagling, we discovered that we could still use the pullout! However we needed to find different hardware and modify the pullout in a way that it would clear the hinges and slide in and out without a problem.

Here's what we did to customize the pullout: using our own bottom-mounted full-extension hardware, we dry-fit the drawer in place to insure it would clear the hinge. With a piece of cardboard used as a spacer on the lefthand side, we had plenty of clearance to get by the hinge on the right side.

We measured the placement of the hardware where we wanted to position it in the cabinet (sides, front and back) and transferred those measurements to the underside of the pull-out. There's a lip underneath the pullout that has to be filled in so the hardware can be attached and slide out properly; so we cut two pieces of wood to act as spacers to be attached onto the underside of the pullout to make it flush.

Modifying a pullout to clear door hinge

I didn't want to screw into the underside of the pullout, so we used double sided taped to attach the wooden spacers onto it instead. Does anyone reading this know a good method of getting the plastic backing off this stuff without struggling with it for more than five minutes? Double sided tape is great but it's the bane of my existence!

I've reach my picture limit, so for the rest of the tutorial, with step-by-step pictures, visit Birdz of Feather by clicking the link at the end of this post.

If you're wondering how much my Ikea storage solution cost in the end, I would like to answer priceless; I wish I had done this in my old studio! However, on my blog you will find the breakdown in Canadian dollars, taking into the account the 15% discount (Ikea was running a Pax promotion), sales tax and the fact that I purchased my doors (and three drawers) second-hand for only $200. I honestly thought I would have to budget around $4K in order to pack so much functionality (and beauty) into organizing my new studio, but it didn't cost anything near that!

Well, that wraps it for now -- until I've transferred all my stuff from my previous studio! I hope you've enjoyed playing 'Pax-Man', or in my case Pax-(Wo)Man as much as I did!

Thanks for playing "Pax-Man"!

UPDATE: Now that my craft studio is done, have a look at this post to see how I organized it! You'll also find a link to my brand new craft category - Birdz of a Feather ~ Craft Rehab - where I'm posting cool (and sustainable!) projects exclusively dedicated to crafting!

Please pin and share; if there's a craft studio in your near future too (or recent past), tell me about it in the comments; I'd love to hear about it.

I hope you've been inspired by this post and found some useful information on how to create your own personal craft space!

For more inspiring ideas in and around the home follow us on Birdz of a Feather and social media:





Suggested materials:
  • Pax   (Ikea)
  • Komplement   (Ikea)
Birdz of a Feather
Want more details about this and other DIY projects? Check out my blog post!
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  2 questions
  • B B on Apr 06, 2017
    What were the name of the cabinets at IKEA?

  • Rena Noele Rena Noele on Apr 07, 2017
    Is the nail holder and plastic sleeve over the drill bit included in the Pax and Tyssedal project? Or did you need to buy them separately at IKEA?

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