Baseboards. Seal narrow cracks with paintable or clear latex caulk, either at the top or along the bottom where the baseboards meet the floor. Run a continuous bead of caulk along the gap and smooth it with a caulk tool or wet finger. Wipe away the excess caulk with a damp cloth.
If you're caulking, painters tape above and below will give you a straight line. If you meant chalk paint, I've used it on baseboard. Clean well, prime if stained, and then paint. It will probably take two coats.
Amanda has the least expensive answer, especially if you get a caulk that matches the floor color.
I might take it as an opportunity to take the old woodwork out and step up in value and design. Especially if you'd like to go a little more traditional and stylish than the simple builder's grade. Just a thought.☺
I have been installing wood floors for over forty years and installing baseboard.
when caulking along the floor I protect the floor with painters tape and caulk. I go back and wipe the base with a damp rag to get a clean look. Keep your rag clean and you’ll have great results.
Latex caulk will work fine. For good adhesion, clean the dust thoroughly and make the existing grout a tiny bit moist. Use a damp paper towel for that and blot the points of contact. Silicone caulk gathers dust and dirt, so try to avoid that.
Caulk was applied between my new baseboards and tile floor. It is now 10 years later and with concrete slab & temperature changes, it still 'slips' down to the floor and has to be scrubbed away. Don't caulk between tile and baseboard!
Use some blue painters tape top and bottom. Get Alex 30+ caulk and a caulking gun.. I caulked my floors this way about 35 years ago and they still look great. Take your time and do it right and it will last.
You are giving great advice, I do it for a living and have been doing it for years with good results. I also use the Alex caulk, it tells you right on the tube that it is for baseboard and paintable .
Only a few answers here actually get the heart of the question and one I also have: how do you stop the draft between the baseboard and the wood floor when the baseboad is level but the floor isn't? Sometimes I feel like I'm sitting in an overheated room and my feet are out in an icestorm. I too wondered about caulking but hesitated because it would touch the floor -- that's how big the gap is in places. Quarterround would solve the problem...probably...but it is a time-consuming and would be difficult since the trim would jut forward at the door openings.
So, if I might refine the question...is there a product available that can be applied with a caulking gun or fingers that is not caulk?
Michele, I have been installing wood floors for over forty years
after Instalation comes the baseboard. I have always used Alex Caulk, it is written on the tube that it is paintable and meant for baseboard.
Before caulking carefully tape your floors , apply the caulk along the baseboard and wipe with a damp rag. Keep rinsing your rag and wring it out. I prefer old t-shirts or a similar material.
After wiping down pull the tape.
when I caulk the top of the base I to not use tape.
Thanks to all who responded but I think Jerry's solution might just do the trick. I am handy with caulking guns. Thanks, Jerry. Exactly what I needed to know.
From your picture the flooring was not cut wide or long enough before applying the baseboard. I would buy enough quarter round trim paint to match the baseboard and nail into place it will cover those rough edges and give you a nice neat finish you are looking for.
Wood filler ‘might’ crack given movement & settling of a house and traffic walking on the floor creating some movement. I think something with flexibility, such as caulk (not silicone caulk as it gathers dust!) might be a better solution! Just my opinion!
Be aware that changes in temperature affect the gaps you might be talking about. I have caulked my gaps two times, esp. with a silicone caulk, and in winter gaps get bigger, summer, they go back to normal. I live in Pennsylvania. Anyway the most satisfactory gap filler was quarter round molding.
That would be my choice to use the quarter round-plus I think it provides even more detailing to the baseboard and gives it a nice professional looking profile. Just my opinion though!
Before adding the quarter round,
for those don’t want to use caulk, (and depending on the amount of space available at the bottom of the baseboards), you could use small pieces of fibreglass insulation, or even better, the thin white rolls of foam they use for insulation around door and window jambs. Use a putty knife to push the foam (or small pieces of fibreglass) under the baseboards, tucking them in nice and tight. Depending on the thickness of your baseboards, you may be able to get it tucked in far enough that it’s not visible. A utility knife could trim it back just a touch if necessary, or you could just put the quarter round on and not have to worry about it. Although I like the look of the quarter round, I think something that should be taken into consideration is what room it is being used in. Areas like kitchens, bathrooms, entrance ways etc that see a lot of traffic (and possibly water) are areas that need more mopping…so unless you are extremely careful, those pieces of quarter round have the capacity to get ‘gunked up’ - or accumulate dirt, water, and any floor treatments you might use. Baseboards are the same of course, but with caulking along the bottom it would help prevent water from being absorbed into the wood (finished or not) and if they are MDF, they can break down if repeatedly in contact with water. Dust and dirt don’t accumulate quite as noticeably as on the quarter round too. Just some things to take into consideration!! Patti
Paintable silicone caulk will work well. If you have a lot to do, buy a caulk gun for ease of application. They are very inexpensive and will make the job easier.
Hello, first protect the floor with painter's tape, then apply a beige latex caulk, smooth it as needed then remove the painter tape carefully before the caulk dries. You will be happy with the results. Hope this helps you out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNgeF9ipYSQ
Use a paintable silicone caulk. The silicone caulking will move with the wall. Then after installing and patching just paint it the same color as the wall.
Caulking comes in many colors. One is almond. If it stands out too much against the floor, you can add acrylic paint to it after it has dried. You could also use small quarter round and attach with silicone caulking so it can be removed is you ever need to.
I used spray foam insulation. No more draft in this 1906 building. Also from time to time some "furry friends" have been known to sneak through there. Haven't seen them in a while either.
Two Questions??It’s been along time since I’ve be on here…Any ideas on best caulking to use on gap between the bottom of the drywall to the subfloor… So I rem...
See more
We recently had new floors put in and the caulk to fill the seam between the floor and the baseboards was very poorly done. It is uneven, with rough edges, and just l...
See more
We are thinking about how to add a backsplash to our kitchen. Unfortunately when we had our countertops installed we ordered a small backsplash that comes part way up...
See more
Caulk is your best bet for baseboards.
Use painters caulk. Let it dry then it is paintable
Hello. I have filled gaps with caulk. You could also add a quarter round molding to the bottom to hide the gap.
Amanda has the least expensive answer, especially if you get a caulk that matches the floor color.
I might take it as an opportunity to take the old woodwork out and step up in value and design. Especially if you'd like to go a little more traditional and stylish than the simple builder's grade. Just a thought.☺
100% paintable silicone caulk. You can also use clear silicone caulk.
Only caulk the part of the baseboard that touches the wall, do not caulk along the floor.
I would use a latex caulk.
Caulk was applied between my new baseboards and tile floor. It is now 10 years later and with concrete slab & temperature changes, it still 'slips' down to the floor and has to be scrubbed away. Don't caulk between tile and baseboard!
Use some blue painters tape top and bottom. Get Alex 30+ caulk and a caulking gun.. I caulked my floors this way about 35 years ago and they still look great. Take your time and do it right and it will last.
Only a few answers here actually get the heart of the question and one I also have: how do you stop the draft between the baseboard and the wood floor when the baseboad is level but the floor isn't? Sometimes I feel like I'm sitting in an overheated room and my feet are out in an icestorm. I too wondered about caulking but hesitated because it would touch the floor -- that's how big the gap is in places. Quarterround would solve the problem...probably...but it is a time-consuming and would be difficult since the trim would jut forward at the door openings.
So, if I might refine the question...is there a product available that can be applied with a caulking gun or fingers that is not caulk?
use latex paint just let it run on the floor and then use a grinder tyo remove excess
Cheat: Stuff the holes with tissue paper and then seal them in with whiteatoothpaste.
Thanks to all who responded but I think Jerry's solution might just do the trick. I am handy with caulking guns. Thanks, Jerry. Exactly what I needed to know.
From your picture the flooring was not cut wide or long enough before applying the baseboard. I would buy enough quarter round trim paint to match the baseboard and nail into place it will cover those rough edges and give you a nice neat finish you are looking for.
Small gaps like that you can use wood filler .. wait till it dry, sand, add if needed more and paint
It can be caulked or you can add a quarter round molding there.
Be aware that changes in temperature affect the gaps you might be talking about. I have caulked my gaps two times, esp. with a silicone caulk, and in winter gaps get bigger, summer, they go back to normal. I live in Pennsylvania. Anyway the most satisfactory gap filler was quarter round molding.
Paintable silicone caulk will work well. If you have a lot to do, buy a caulk gun for ease of application. They are very inexpensive and will make the job easier.
Colored caulking. If you can't find the correct shade (it does come in almond), caulk with any and touch up with acrylic paint in the correct shade.
Hello, first protect the floor with painter's tape, then apply a beige latex caulk, smooth it as needed then remove the painter tape carefully before the caulk dries. You will be happy with the results. Hope this helps you out https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNgeF9ipYSQ
Use a paintable silicone caulk. The silicone caulking will move with the wall. Then after installing and patching just paint it the same color as the wall.
Caulking comes in many colors. One is almond. If it stands out too much against the floor, you can add acrylic paint to it after it has dried. You could also use small quarter round and attach with silicone caulking so it can be removed is you ever need to.
Caulking gun and caulk but you need to do it on the whole perimeter of your baseboard
Yes put a thin caulk on the base if you want usually they don’t do that .it looks good like that that is like that because not every floor it flat.
Hi Sharon, here's a video that will give you a method.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9riTpAjyfLM
I used spray foam insulation. No more draft in this 1906 building. Also from time to time some "furry friends" have been known to sneak through there. Haven't seen them in a while either.
I just watched a caulking video on You Tube. I would only do top of baseboards. Floating floors may be affected by caulk as it expands.
Yes definitely fill the gap