How To Build A Countertop With Reclaimed Wood Flooring

I have had so many requests for a tutorial, and now that I have repeated this project in our current fixer-upper basement I have a tutorial for you!

Be sure to read to the end of the post for a fun before and after video of the countertop project!

You Will Need:

• Reclaimed Wood Planks
• 1/2 inch Plywood
• Liquid Nails
• Brad Nails
• Pencil
• Stain
• Polyurethane
• 60/80 Grit Sandpaper
• 220/320 Sandpaper
• Miter Saw
• Table Saw
• Brad Nailer
• Belt Sander
• Hand Sander
• Hammer

Along this wall, there are not going to be any lower cabinets. The wood countertop will serve as a bar. The countertop dimensions here needed to be approximately 90″ x 16.”

If you are wanting to create a bar top then the recommended depth is anywhere from 12″ – 16″ deep.

These base cabinets were leftover from another project. See that middle cabinet? It is actually a base microwave cabinet that I repurposed into a sink base. It worked like a charm!

The countertop dimensions here were approximately 84″ x 24″. When you measure take the dimensions from the edge of each countertop. Base cabinets’ standard depth is 24″.

Once you have your measurements cut out the plywood base with a table saw. 1/2″ plywood is ideal, but I have also done this project with success using 1/4″ plywood.

Here is the bartop base!

The technique I use to lay the reclaimed oak flooring planks is the same technique I use to lay a floor.

Start your first row along the wall side of the countertop. Making sure to line up the grooved edge of the wood plank along the wall side as seen above (not the tongue edge).

Tack in the wood planks with a brad nailer. For extra adhesion, I recommend applying liquid nails first prior to laying the floor planks on the plywood.

One of my favorite tools ever is my RYOBI cordless brad nailer. I can’t even count the number of projects I have accomplished with this tool.

The cordless aspect makes it conveniently portable for all manner of projects!

This is the tongued side of the wood floor planking.

Lay the next row of planks. Tap the tongue and grooved edges together with a hammer.

Lay the last plank of the row so that it extends off the end of the plywood.

Mark the end with a pen or marker and cut with a miter saw. Use this piece to start the next row.

Cut down the last plank with a table saw so that it is flush with the edge of the plywood.

Zip a piece of plank wood with the table saw to create an edge piece. Use the miter saw to cut the corner at a 45-degree angle. Do the same on all exposed sides.

Using a combination of the RYOBI belt sander and the RYOBI hand sander strip down the finish to the raw wood. You will likely need a 60/80 grit sandpaper for this step.

This RYOBI belt sander is corded but also comes available without a cord. This RYOBI belt sander is perfect for a project like this due to the straight lines and long surface area.

This hand sander helped to get in the grooves for the slightly uneven areas and grooves.

Make sure to wipe down the wood well to remove all remnants of sawdust. Be sure to use a tack cloth to pick up the fine sawdust.

Staining the wood is optional. The above countertop was stained using “Espresso” by Minwax.

It is a lovely warm wood finish.

On this countertop project, I left the wood without stain to keep it lighter. That being said the red oak planks pulled a little more yellow than I would have liked.

In hindsight, I wish I would have stained the oak wood with Dixie Belle’s “Au Naturel” gel stain. It does such an incredible job at neutralizing the yellow tones.

On the above countertop I finished the wood with 3 coats of a satin polyurethane. It provided a lovely soft, finished sheen.

On this countertop, I finished the raw wood with 3 coats of flat polyurethane. Again in full transparency, I wish I had used satin. The flat poly finish doesn’t leave as nice of a finished sheen and is more difficult to wipe down.

It still looks gorgeous though!

Apply liquid nails to the top of the cabinets. Screw the top onto the base cabinets from the inside of the cabinetry.

For the bar top we used these iron brackets.

Here we are!

Slide the bar to check out the before and after photos below!

Watch the video below!

Pin any of the images below for later!

• Miter Saw
• Table Saw
• Brad Nailer
• Hammer
• Belt Sander
• Hand sander

• Wood Planks
• 1/2 inch Plywood
• Liquid Nails
• Brad Nails
• Pencil
• Stain
• Polyurethane
• 60/80 Grit Sandpaper
• 220/320 Sandpaper

• Measure the length and width of the countertop space.
• Cut the plywood to measurements.
• Add the reclaimed wood planks.
• Finish the edges.
• Sand.
• Stain.
• Poly.
• Install on cabinets.