Painting antique chairs

I have 2 wooden antique chairs with only stain and original varnish. I sanded ea. well but do not know where to go from there. There is still some stain present. I want to paint but what type paint to use? Where veneer is broken off should I use wood filler? Do I need to use paint remover to completely remove all stain first?
  8 answers
  • Janet Pizaro Janet Pizaro on Oct 02, 2015
    If you do not remove the rest of the stain it will bleed through the paint.You should use a wood filler on whatever is broken and lightly sand.As for the painting aspect that will depend on your sense of style.
  • I would sand till the loose edges of the veneer are smooth then use a good quality latex primer like Kilz or Glidden. If the stain is going to bleed through you will see it. There are a few types of old finishes where the stain bleeds through but the majority don't. After the primer select a quality paint and go for it!
  • Shari Shari on Oct 02, 2015
    How you address the broken veneer depends on how many places are broken and their size. If the broken veneer has left large or deep "holes," it might be easier to use a wood filler rather than trying to sand it smooth. If the broken veneer is small, some additional sanding might be enough to smooth it out. In most cases, it is not necessary to completely remove the stain before painting. More than likely, if you have sanded off enough of the stain, you probably won't have a bleed-through problem. Actually, since stain soaks into the wood, it is often almost impossible to remove every trace of stain from the grain of the wood without A LOT of work. Chances are, you probably don't need to go to that much trouble just on the slim chance the remaining stain will bleed. As Kathy said, most finishes don't bleed. From my experience, it is usually furniture from the 30s and 40s with that reddish, mahogany looking stain that bleeds and a good stain blocking primer (or a coat of shellac) will prevent it. There are lots of options for paint. Depending on what look you are going for, you can use latex interior paint (my favorite paint for furniture), chalk paint or milk paint.
  • Debi53 Debi53 on Oct 02, 2015
    Everyone has given you good advice. I have just a comment about the stain bleeding through. First do the proper prep with wood filler and sanding. Then you can prevent stain from bleeding through by using a stain blocking primer like Kilz Premium or Zinsser 123 Stain Blocker. Use 2 coats of this primer and then use any paint you want.
  • CAmom CAmom on Oct 02, 2015
    I helped a friend transform a 90's bed & breakfast to a "shabby chic" wedding venue, which involved painting a LOT of furniture! (and kitchen cabinets, and floors, etc.) I had a table and 6 chairs in about the shape you're describing. I sanded and used wood filler where there were holes or chips, just to keep things smooth - and I used chalk paint to paint the pieces. The table was that horrible 50's faux wood paint finish - and it looked really yellow and blech - and had a LOT of stain. 2 coats later and none of it bled through.
  • Martha Partridge Martha Partridge on Oct 02, 2015
    All this info has really helped. One last question: Once painted do I need to paint w/acrylic finish to protect chipping??? My Kitchen cabinets were painted by previous owners but did not put protective type finish and now I have problem w/chips.
    • Shari Shari on Oct 02, 2015
      @Martha Partridge A protective top coat is optional and your lifestyle is probably the best determining factor whether you should top coat, or not. My personal preference is to use no protective top coat on my painted furniture. I always use one or two very thin coats of a good bonding primer to help with paint adhesion and then I follow up with several light coats of a good quality latex paint so my painted furniture doesn't chip easily. Also, my husband and I are empty-nesters and we don't have grandchildren so we are not particularly hard on our furniture. If a painted piece does get a little nick or chip, I find it is easy to touch up with a dab of paint and a little paint brush if there is no protective coating. My decorating style is "cottage" so many of my pieces are painted white and I don't care for the yellowish tint that even some of the "non-yellowing" products leave on white or light colored paint so that's another reason I don't use a top coat. I don't think you can completely make your decision to top coat, or not, based on the problems you are having with the kitchen cabinets because you don't know how well the cabinets were cleaned and prepped prior to painting, and you probably don't know if the previous owners used a bonding primer or bought cheap paint. Assuming you are going to use latex paint, as long as you prep well, use a good primer and paint, and don't apply the primer or paint too thick, it should stick quite well ...as long as the furniture is not abused. If you are going to be using the chairs a lot, or if you have kids or grandkids that will be rough on them, you might decide adding a protective top coat is best way to go. If you think you would prefer no top coat, you could skip it initially and then, if you find the chairs are chipping too easily, you could always touch up the chipped spots and then top coat. Or, you could ignore the normal wear and have an authentically "distressed" finish. The distressed look is so "in" right now and people go to great lengths to artificially recreate that look on newly painted furniture with sandpaper!
  • Lainey Howell Lainey Howell on Oct 05, 2015
    You can replace veneer with new, purchased at a wood crafts store. Cut it with a very sharp craft knife and glue it in place. Stain to match. Since any value they might have had as antiques was removed as soon as they were sanded, a good paint in the finish of your choice is now your best option. There were no pictures, but a black lacquer might help retain the "old and elegant".
  • Martha Partridge Martha Partridge on Oct 05, 2015
    Thanks for the info Lainey Howell.