Any tips for installing solid hardwood flooring?
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We're about to embark on an epic DIY flooring project that has me so scared I want to curl up in the fetal position and hide in a corner. Here's what we've done so far:http://livingrichonless.com/epicsnowballflooringproject/. If you have any tips for installing hardwood, I would love it if you would share them! Thanks.
14 answers
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No suggestions...I watched my dad floor an entire house in the 50s with no power tools so all I can say is good luck!
Jeanette S
on Jan 14, 2014
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I have only ever laid laminate flooring so can't help with hardwood. It is a LOT of hard work and you will be sore and worried the whole time working but the end results will be well worth all of it. All I can say is figure out your pattern or randomness design first and measure more than once (2-3 times) before cutting, and if you have odd angles corners etc. to lay around make a cardboard template that you can trace cut lines onto (don't forget to detract 1/4".-- we wasted so many pieces on these areas until I came up with template idea and used--fit like a glove 1st cut using.(but we are going to use scraps for another project so really not wasted) --keeping in mind that wood shrinks during winter and expands in summer--pretty sure even with hardwood you have to leave at least 1/4 " gap between floors and walls when laying to compensate for this . GL and post pics here when you finish so we can see.
Cynthia E
on Jan 14, 2014
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Make sure to have a straight line! So where ever you are starting you need to see if the wall is square~most likely it will not be. So get a chalk line and you need to start your first row on the straight line. So you need a square and go to the corner you are starting at and see if the corner is square. If not, then figure out what makes square and do your chalk line. Remember if you take off the trim you have about 1/2" of play to get the line straight. I hope this makes sense. If you do not start right you will end up going cock-a-many. I would take off the trim and any quarter round or moulding so that you can get close to the walls if need be. Good luck. Oh and check to make sure you are laying the floor straight every so many feet. We laid a floor and learned the hard way to check! LOL
The Garden Frog with C Renee
on Jan 14, 2014
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So agree with C Renee Fuller if your first row is not straight none of the others will be!
Cynthia E
on Jan 14, 2014
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Fist open several cartons and lay it out on the floor in an area away from the where you begin to instal it. laying them out in a staggered pattern as manufacturer suggests. ( each manufactures has its own layout pattern depending on stye). You want to run off the squarest wall in the room you are doing and u must ........... keep a 1/4 space away from the walls on all sides to allow for expansion and contraction (this is a key missed mistake). Some manufactures recommend 3/8 of an inch. You base molding will cover this area. If you are leaving you base molding you can simply purchase shoe molding to cover the space.Depending on what type of flooring you are installing I can give you more advice, that is a floating floor, fastened floor, self locking toung and groove etc. Let me know and I would be happy to advise you. Good Luck
"Scott Binsack" Gettin er Done at Home
on Jan 14, 2014
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I agree with Scott! We aren't professionals but we have now done three families houses. Pull all carpet, sweep up, but a hose or use a sock in your hand to check for any more staples. Or stick a old hose on a broom and sweep. No matter how hard I try I always find some later on! I also lay them out to see if it has odd colors, and even sizes I do three or four cartons and out them in a pile. We also pull all the baseboards if we need to, the worse is doors. Do this first. It will save time if you cut it first or pull it off. Tons of pencils, and always a few rulers for making precise cuts, save your end pieces. You can use them at the end. If you have a drop down or step down level it up first, or even with a transition piece you will always have a hump. Hope my lack of knowing helps!
Sherrie
on Jan 14, 2014
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We did our entire house one room at a time. There are several big issues mostly in the prep work. Rent a pneumatic flooring nailer and compressor if you are doing this in one weekend. Your back will appreciate it. Ensure you get all the carpet pad staples out. Sweep and vacuum the floor before the underlayment goes down. Scrape up any drywall or paint blobs and even out the subfloor as best you can. We had seams in the underlayment that caused the flooring to want to buckle. Staple the underlayment down and be sure the staples are driven all the way down. Flip a scrap piece upside down to use as a guide when you notch the jams in the door way.Use the same tape measure to mark the wood for cutting that you used for the measurement, yes it did make a difference.
Kelly S
on Jan 14, 2014
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Run you flooring towards the light soource. Whether it's a window or a doorway. It maes the room look bigger. I've done 3 houses (8 rooms worth of wood and laminate wood flooring. Don't worry. Also there are tutorials that you can google. Once your done you'll be feeling brave. Have fun with it.
Debbie Harris
on Jan 14, 2014
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All good advice! We have redone 2 houses now with Bamboo hardwood and LOVE IT! After you have it all down, make sure all your furniture have non-slip pads under the legs or your stuff will shift all over the room - couches, chairs and tables tend to move when sat in or leaned on :) and can leave scratches in the wood. Also, invest in non-slip pads for any area rugs so they don't slide… no fun landing on your bum when rushing down the hall to grab the phone and the runner goes WHOOSH from under you feet!
Jennifer G
on Jan 15, 2014
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Other then the first row needing to be straight, my most important advice is to stager your seams. You should also open more then one box and use take few pieces from each box while working. TAKE YOUR TIME... I'm sure it will be beautiful when its finished :)
Bernadette Tetle
on Jan 15, 2014
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I can answer any questions you have. If I can't my boyfriend can, he has been doing hardwoods, real hardwoods only, for 25 years and the last 20 years his own company. I see your materials and I see you are on a concrete slab. Remove base trim and shoe molding. I can't see exactly what all you have but you will need to start with a 6 mil plastic barrier first wall to wall complete coverage. This thick plastic serves as a moisture barrier. Without it you will have moisture problems down the road and warping. Floors on pier and beam don't need the plastic barrier. On top of that will be your plywood that you nail your flooring to. He rips each sheet in to 2'x8's and spaces them about 10" apart. On top of that is your underlayment, he uses roofing felt, this works as a squeak barrier between the two woods. Rack your boards get them all ready, avoid butt seams matching so stagger the lengths to not do that.....it will look better. Then you start with a straight line of boards nail it and work one row at a time. Knock them in tight as you nail each board. It's very important that you start with a perfectly straight line otherwise they will be crooked and you can end up halfway across the room before it is really noticeable! Reply if you have any questions along the way.
Rachel Shoemaker
on Jan 16, 2014
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Best advice I can give you is to allow 1/2 inch gap around all walls for expansion of the wood ..
Terry's Flooring
on Jan 16, 2014
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listen to terry's flooring - our floor guy did not do that and the floor is a disaster with boards popping up all over!!!
Elaine Williams
on Jan 17, 2014
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Awesome inspiration for those of the same mind.Hardwood flooring is a great way to increase your home's market value. If you want a traditional look, think hardwood. You can get more incredible ideas for installing hardwood floor if you contact certified flooring company as they have certified professionals with incredible services that will suit any budget. Thanks for nice posting.
Kristin Topping
on Nov 20, 2015
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