Do deglosser/liquid sand paper work?

if you're doing paint over paint, a light sanding on the flats, and liquid sandpaper on any detail work, i.e. rosettes etc, will do just fine. If you're entertaining the thought of " i wonder what the wood looks like, wonder if its worth stripping and doing a stain and varnish?" I have a great tip from an old painter. Use environmentally safe stripper. It takes longer but produces excellent results. heres the tip: after brushing on the stripper, going in one direction only- never do the back and forth motion common to brush painting, immediately cover the piece of trim with precut piece of Saran wrap. This prevents evaporation and gives the stripper all the time it needs to remove the paint. Depending on how many layers of paint there are, you may need to redo, but the Saran is the key!Share your thoughts!

Use citristrip a safe non-toxic paint remover

What you save in elbow grease with liquid sanders, you spend in time, and maybe even a lesser quality paint job. You don't need to sand to the bare wood unless you are going to stain. Just sand enough to allow the primer to adhere. Be sure to use a primer before painting.

Liquid sand paint prep works wonderfully!

I have used it on walls and moldings. The new paint will only be as good as the paint under it, however. If it is cracked, chipped, or peeling, you need to sand.

: )

I have used Liquid Sandpaper and knockoffs for years. Although the smell is strong, I prefer it over sanding, BUT you have to use steel wool with it. With a rag it isn't much better than cleaning,

I usually buy the generic brand from Big box or hardware stores. The last ones I have used were Dynamic brand Liquid Sandpaper and Kleen Strip deglosser, and did not prefer one over the other. I have also used an eco-stripper with steel wool, but had to let it sit, so I found that too time consuming. It is however a good alternative to toxic fumes, if you have time to wait.

I wear gloves, use steel wool and do a light scrub, then go over with a damp towel to remove the residue. I don't need to use TSP or anything else. It is great for removing the gunk off of kitchen cupboards you plan on painting or staining as well. I have used it on 60's panelling that I have had professionally painted, and parts I have done myself, and the finish lasts a long time. I have never had a problem using it. I had a water damaged sink cabinet and you cannot tell the difference between it and the other cabinets.

In my case, I have had more problems with sanding, because if I missed speck of dust, it would show up on the wall. Also I found that the sandpaper needed to be changed more often than the steel wool.

I also prime afterwards, but it worked even when I haven't in the past.

If in doubt, do a test spot.

Do it right the first time and you won't be sorry. Use an electric palm sander for ease, then prime with a good quality primer. Paint the moldings with desired paint in the finish of your choice. Then enjoy your great work. Trust me, you'll be happy in the long run if you do it right the first time. Trust me, I learned the hard way. Best of luck.

Maybe the following link can help you decide:

http://www.sico.ca/en-CA/Advice/Exterior/Importance-of-properly-preparing-surfaces-and-prem/Sanding-surfaces.aspx