Asked on Apr 26, 2014

Painting wooden kitchen cabinets.

Judy T
by Judy T
I want to paint my wooden kitchen cabinets and add hardware. What are the best procedures to follow so the paint will be durable and has less possibility of scratching and chipping?
  6 answers
  • Wendy Willey Wendy Willey on Apr 26, 2014
    I'm going to be doing that very same thing this summer. Can't wait to hear everyone's ideas and DIY's!
  • Cathy W Cathy W on Apr 26, 2014
    Judy, We just did ours again! Since you are going to replace the hardware, why not remove Cabinet doors and do your painting outside on flat surface (no runs to worry about.) We used semigloss paint after sanding them down. Semigloss is so easy to clean. Then work on the frame work. Prep them (filling holes, sanding etc) first. Using a small roller then smoothing with a rubber brush will do it fast. Be sure to protect your walls and ceiling with painters tape. Drop cloth over sink and ever thing you don't want paint on! Last time we painted ours was 20 years ago. The semi-gloss protected them very well from scratching and nicks! A good quality paint will pay off in the long run. And you can probably get by with a gallon! Do make a "swatch" of the new paint (on a wood stirring stick). In case you are doing a color that isn't white! I haven't used "chalk" paint that is fashionable right now. Don't think it would with stand the various uses in a kitchen and clean up grease splatters.... (Any advice from a paint store employee would be helpful too. As long as he/she is over 18 and has experience!) Have fun with the hardware! So many kinds to chose from. Suggest buying 2 or 3 that you love and goes with the kitchen. Then hold them up and you'll see what you like the best. Take the other two back to the store for credit on the new ones! Have fun! We had a 10 plex and I got a lot (really A LOT) of painting practice/experience!
  • Dale Hayes Dale Hayes on Apr 27, 2014
    Begin by evaluating what coating is on your cabinets. If you or a previous owner have never painted them, they are likely coated with a lacquer or some sprayed on factory finish. A quick light sanding will be sufficient. Use sandpaper with 180 grit or higher, focus on high wear areas (around handles, knobs and on cabinet frames on the side opposite of the hinges). If you can see brush strokes in the finish, it will require more sanding to smooth out. If the brush marks are very bad, use lower grit sandpapers and graduate up as needed. A hi-build primer can hide some imperfections in the surfaces. Apply each coating as quickly as possible; The paint needs time to flow together to eliminate roller or brush marks. Not too thick! More thin coats are best. Expect any bare wood to have the wood grain lift after painting. Lightly sand with 220 grit or higher. Dust and wipe all surfaces before painting each coat. Follow all instructions on can label. Quick Facts Latex is too soft for kitchens, maybe for a storage cabinet if not used often. Oil is harder and more durable to banging and gouging from tools or metal pans. A brush should be used for narrow areas.A roller with a short nap should be used for larger flat areas and immediately followed by smoothing stroke with a brush. After each roller load is applied, brush out the area as quickly as possible. A paint conditioner like Penetrol will give you a more time to smooth out the coating. ------------------------Awaiting Questions-------------------------------
  • Ann Ann on Apr 27, 2014
    Wow I think Dale must be a pro painter. I had two friends paint their cupbds. One hired a pro and he used oil and she had a nice hard surface. The second did her own and used latex, it's easier to clean up, but was softer finish. Both looked great but there definitely was a difference.
  • Shirley Whitfield Shirley Whitfield on Apr 27, 2014
    I used a paint called Diamond hard from Pittsburg paint been on there 10 years stiil just as white . Make sure to sand them well .
  • Becky Becky on Apr 29, 2014
    I painted my cabinets in late 2013. I read many blogs and there was a wide variety of paints, techniques, and ways to go about this. I chose to use oil based porch and floor paint from Home Depot. After removing all my cabinet doors I did a little prep by using a deglosser. I then used zinzer primer (brown label). I did 2 coats and let dry 24 hours in between coats. I painted 3 coats of paint the same way. I have no brush stroke marks and it looks sprayed on. I let the doors cure for 2 weeks before putting them back up. It took about 5-6 weeks to fully cure (coz I did it in nov. ). It would probably cure faster in warmer temps. It is so hard I can't chip it with my nails and I have tried. Hope this helps! I try to post pics and the app crashes every time! But I did post my kitchen a while back if you want to look that way.
    • Marion Nesbitt Marion Nesbitt on Apr 30, 2014
      @Becky I loved the old, messy oil based paints for my trims. You could play around because of the slower dry time and get a mirror surface - no brush marks. Can't get the original anymore. Will have to check out porch/floor paint availability re true oil base. Thought it was removed from the market???