old vanity restore
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P.j. C on May 25, 2014My first concern would be to protect the mirror from any products used to strip the paint or finish. If stripper seeps behind the edges of the mirror, it would remove the silvering (probably real silver, & expensive to have redone). If possible, remove the mirrors before trying to strip the frames. If not, clean the mirrors as well as possible (use a razor blade to get dried junk off the surface, being careful not to scratch the glass). It's best to spray a paper towel instead of directly on old mirrors, to prevent the solution from seeping under the edges. (Moisture can cause old mirrors to 'ghost'. While they may already have some damage, that's not necessarily bad because designers often mimic the look on new mirrored surfaces!) Mask off the edges of the mirror with Frog Tape (NOT regular masking tape!), then cover the mirrored sections with kraft paper. If trying to remove paint, I would use a "safe" type stripper made with soy OR citrus in a 'semi-paste' or gel type formula. You will also need supplies recommended on the stripper's label: 2-3 soft toothbrushes, a narrow putty knife (after wasting $$ on cheaper brands, I've found Purdy makes the best model--stronger, more comfortable handle, & sharper/flexible blade.) Most safe strippers specify nylon instead of metal scrubbers, but use the type recommended on the label--either flat Scotch Brand pads or 000 steel wool. It's hard to tell from your photos if the decorative molding around the frames is actually carved wood or "composition". Either can be stripped, but compo is more delicate & could break off while being stripped. Again, be very careful not to let any stripper flow into the edges of the mirror. Work slowly, a foot or so at a time: dab on the stripper with a small paint brush, let it work for the recommended time, then use a soft toothbrush to gently scrub out the stripper & paint or finish. Keep plenty of rags or paper towels handy to wipe the gunk off as you go. When a section is clean (bare wood), rinse the surface with the solvent recommended on the stripper's label (water, mineral spirits, or rubbing alcohol, depending on the stripper's formula). IF any of the finish is just old shellac (probably the original finish), it can be removed with 90% rubbing alcohol & either a flat nylon scrub pad or 000 steel wool. When you're ready to restain & apply a new finish, do NOT use polyurethane on an antique! Satin varnish or an oil type finish is more appropriate. Although shellac is also appropriate for antiques, it is easily damaged by heat, alcohol, nail polish remover, & cleaning products. Good luck~~& be sure to post photos when you're done with this project! :-)Helpful Reply
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Marion Nesbitt on May 29, 2014Agree. Most mirrors can be removed - have done this on a few. Not for refinishing - for cleaning. the mirror safely. After many years, the parts of the mirrors by the swirls, scrolls, etc. look like they've never been cleaned.Helpful Reply
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Sindy Todd on May 30, 2014It looks like nails holding the back pieces on behind the mirrors. I would be afraid to take them out. There must be 4 or 5 different colors on this piece. It is going to take me quite awhile to get it all off carefully.Helpful Reply
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Susan on Aug 09, 2014i had one of these along time ago. i removed the mirror. have fun!Helpful Reply
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Melinda Lockwood on Nov 20, 2014stripper containing methylene chloride will work great! It is smelly and burns your skin but works better than anything else! Do remove the glass first as stripper will remove the backing. Re-silvering is very expensive so you might see about getting a glass shop to cut the size you need from new mirroring.Helpful Reply
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Eric Turner on Dec 06, 2014To remove paint from the hardware boil it in a pot for about 30 minutes then dip in ice water. Don't use a pot you want to cook in again.Helpful Reply
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Cynthia Jensen on Dec 06, 2014try a craft "heat gun". Its like a blowdryer and it melts paint offHelpful Reply
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