Having to replace dry wall in all rooms of house
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DOING CEILINGS ARE HELL UNLESS YOU HAVE THE RIGHT EQUIPMENT!
Hire it out by all means! You'll be glad you did.
Yes.
Yes. Stagger. And make sure the factory ends of the drywall meet. Try not to have a factory end and a cut end meet. The factory ends are tapered so that the tape and mud is smoother once finished.
To cut, it is not necessary to cut all the way through. Cut the paper on the outer part. Then bend at the cut and it will break. Then cut the paper on the back. Get a good utility knife and a pack of blades to use on the drywall. A drywall saw helps with the cut outs. Measure twice, cut once.
You will need a T-Square also to cut the sheets. Hold the top of the T-Square with one hand and your toe against he bottom of it. Use your other hand to cut down ward along the T-square and then go to the bottom of the square and cut upward. Move the square away from you and place one hand on one side of the cut and one on the other side of the cut. Then snap it backwards and place the knife in the cut and cut down and up and snap it back to the front. Use 1/2 drywall not 1/4. If doing the bathroom around the tub use the new cement board. It is water proof. Mudding and taping take 2 sometimes 3 coats of mud with sanding in between. As an old drywaller from the 60's I would hire some one to do the mudding. Make sure you hang it with the white side out. Good Luck.