When should I stain a new deck?

Libbie B
by Libbie B
We added a deck this spring. The actual deck is treated lumber and was finished in late May. The Pergola was finished a month ago and is cedar. The deck is in full sun all day. Should we stain it now before another harsh West Michigan winter or wait until spring?
  19 answers
  • Max Jake Lytle Max Jake Lytle on Aug 03, 2014
    give it a year to dry out. Otherwise the boards may warp. If you use a semi-transparent, I suggest using a brush. I first used a roller and the stain/sealer seemed to puddle in areas.
  • Debbie Harris Debbie Harris on Aug 03, 2014
    It is treated lumber and you should be able to go ahead and stain and seal it. Before it starts to turn colors.
  • KATHLEEN QUINLAN KATHLEEN QUINLAN on Aug 04, 2014
    Give it one year was what I was told and I did. That was in 1990 and to this day that is still the advice from builder's.
  • Beverly Turcotte Beverly Turcotte on Aug 04, 2014
    I was told by someone you no longer have to wait to stain pressure treated lumber. But If I was you I would contact a professional about it. Because I have heard 1 year or right away. I myself am doing a New product called RESTORE 10X LOVE it. and it has texture and it won't be slippery in the winter. Best of luck
    • See 6 previous
    • You have to wait one month to work on pressure treat material, better yet ask either Ben Moore, or Sherwin Williams they will tell you exactly what, when, and how to do it!
  • Z Z on Aug 04, 2014
    There are two trains of thought on this and I personally haven't found any info, and hubby and I are ones to do allot of our own research on matters such as this, that proves one is better than the other. The best advise I can give is to do what works best for you. Anything you do will have to be redone years down the road. There isn't a finish, no matter what they advertise, that will last perfectly well for a decade. Five years tops, I'd say. As for the cedar, you can leave it left untreated as it's naturally resistant to insects and decay. It will however change color.
  • Years ago, it was suggested that you seal the deck after a year or so when it had time to dry out. The chemicals used in newer lumber are different. You can stain this deck after a few months drying in the sun. Use a clear transparent stain however. This will slightly color the wood and still allow it to breath. Solid or semi-solid stains tend to seal the wood more not allowing for air flow. This can cause issues with the wood if its still a bit damp internally. To test to see if it should be stained. Place several drops of water on the surface of the deck. If it pools in droplets. there is no need to seal, If it soaks into the surface. Its time to seal.
  • Julie B Julie B on Aug 05, 2014
    Raw wood should be left untreated for a year. http://garysullivanonline.com/ Gary has been in the business along time. Check out his web site for answers to anything for homeowners.
  • Supernewf Supernewf on Aug 05, 2014
    I just built a new deck - 8' x 16'. I'm leaving it un-painted. I just painted the railing. I was told by many of my friends not to paint it, once you start you have to paint it every year. Since it's pressure treated it doesn't need to be painted to protect it.
  • @Supernewf you are partly correct. New decks and railings need to dry. There is a bit of an opinion on when, but they still need to be sealed. However you never want to use paint. Only stains. Paint acts as a water barrier. While stain allows wood to breath. Treated lumber, will tend to outgas the chemicals that it was treated with for a pretty long period of time. The result is paint failure. This results in frequent re-painting to make it look good. If you want to change the color of the deck, solid stains can be used, but not suggested. To know when its time to seal, drip water on deck. If it beads up, the deck is still fine, If it soaks in its time to treat. In the case of your railing, not as big as a concern as the deck. With railings your able to paint all sides sealing the wood in. With decks your really only able to paint perhaps three sides. Moisture will continue to travel into the wood from under the deck and this moisture will tend to blister the paint on the surface as it moves through the dry lumber.
  • Joseph F Joseph F on Aug 05, 2014
    I would suggest waiting a year as well. If you're considering a dark color stain, use a brush verses roller. I used a roller on the floor part to expedite the 35' X 12' space. I regretted this later because I ended up layering the stain too heavy. You could see any and all footprints.....making the deck floor look dirty at all time. The brush may slow the process but you don't want the floor color too heavy. Use a transparent base. If you're doing "natural or cedar" color you should be fine with the roller. Dark color... hand brush but not too heavy!!
  • We found using a spray system like you use for gardens works great. We spray and back roll the surface with a short napped roller. It evens out the surface and makes quick work of the project. The benefit of the brush and the sprayer is that you get down the sides of the deck while the roller only just does the top and extra simply drips down the edges. Making for a uneven look.
  • Lyn D Lyn D on Aug 05, 2014
    We stained our deck when our home was 6 months old. We used a sprayer and roller to do the whole job. It turned out great and water beaded wonderfully, sides rails everything. It lasted 9 years. We were in Tennessee. I would not leave it unstained. If you love the color as we did, use clear. its awesome, it is a big job, but you must protect your investment. Good luck!
    • Bonnie Bonnie on Aug 05, 2014
      @Lyn D What type/brand of stain/sealer did you use? We are getting ready to do ours too, just not sure which one to pick.
  • Lyn D Lyn D on Aug 05, 2014
    Bonnie - We used olympic stain and sealant, we applied it heavily and soaked up with a roller. It was great for us, we prepped very good, cleaned deck of all debris and dirt. We did not pressure wash bc our deck was new. It has been a long time - I just hope olympic has not changed their formula. Just do a little research, it goes a long way. :) Good luck.
  • Libbie B Libbie B on Aug 05, 2014
    Okay, a follow up question of sorts......I'd like to stain the Pergola a darker color than the actual deck? Crazy??? Too hard? And do you guys have an actual stain brand preference? Thanks for all the input!
  • The better the quality the more the stain costs. If your changing colors that perhaps has already been stained. You will need to use a semi-solid or perhaps a solid stain color. Olympic is a good brand. Most exterior stains are. Remember once you use a solid or semi-solid stain, your not going to be able to make it lighter without tons of elbow grease and even more time. As it would need to be sanded and bleached to lighten it up again. So be sure that is exactly what you want. Test out in a small area or on wood that is the same type to be sure. If the wood has not been sealed and allows water to soak into it indicating its really dry, I would suggest using a sealer first then color over it. Go to a quality paint store for this. If you do not seal first, you may find that the color will be blotchy as the stain will soak up differently in various areas of the Pergola. Requiring several coats to make it even.
  • Karleen A Karleen A on Aug 10, 2014
    I have a question? Our deck is just a year old, pressure treated, and I noticed in places that it looks "moldy".... Little smudges of black? Is this normal...is there a way to get it off?
    • @Karleen A A good cleaning is in order. With some woods the softer parts of the wood tend to absorb moisture at a faster rate then other areas. The result is because that stays damp longer it is more prone to build up of mold. Mold needs a food source and moisture to develop. Other issues it can be simply the wood aging. First off, splash a bit of water on the deck in those areas. Does it bead up? or is it sort of soaking in? If its beading up, its really aging. The fix for that is to pour a bit of bleach on it and scrub with a brush. This should lighten the dark areas up and help remove the dark dirty areas. If the water soaks in, you need to bleach clean then seal or re-stain with a sealer. If you have not yet sealed your deck sense it was installed. Now is the time to do so. If your not comfortable using bleach, perhaps because you do not want it dripping down to a lower area if its a raised deck, there are several other deck cleaners available at most of the home centers. Power washing can also remove this as well. Just be careful not to over wash the area as the power washer can remove wood at a fast rate and you will end up with a rough finish on the deck. Once the power washing is complete and the deck is dry, you will need to seal it with a deck sealer or stain and sealer product.
  • Julie B Julie B on Aug 11, 2014
    @Karleen A , Try Wet and Forget. It is sold at hardware stores and it is as the products name says. It kills molds and cleans great. Spray it on and forget it.
  • Lyn D Lyn D on Aug 11, 2014
    Karleen A -A simple mixture of germicidal bleach, 3 to 1 works great (one part bleach 3 parts water), make sure it dries well and use eye and mask protection when cleaning. Wait a full week to stain, or if in hot sun 2 days will suffice.
  • Julie B Julie B on Aug 12, 2014
    DO not use bleach, in any strength, on your deck! Check out the web site I gave you. They have many video's and instructions.
    • Lyn D Lyn D on Aug 13, 2014
      @Julie B I will try this product, I have been looking for the ingredients and how it cleans. Seems simple, but the ammonium chloride concerns me a bit. I'll try the shower formula if I can fine it. I hate the smell of bleach and my skin hates it worse. But it works so well and keeps down the growth. BUT.... now I am search of this other. THX :)