I'm planning on tiling our bathroom floor this summer. Floor is on 2nd floor, wood and linoleum. Do I need to put down anything before I tile and what do I do around toilet?
Great discussion, I use 1/4" Hardiebacker over linoleum as long as the new install isn't going to be higher than the existing flooring in the next room. I scuff up the linoleum first before using thinset, then Hardiebacker. My preference on screws is to use the ones specifically made for the Hardiebacker.
If I was to approach this issue, I would if the linoleum height was low enough and the floor strong enough, I would simply treat the linoleum as a vapor barrier, nail down wire mesh and put a thin mud floor down then tile. But realistically I would fear the underlying floor would not be strong enough so I normally tear everything out and rebuild. There are many methods that will work and last, but each is dependent upon the conditions we find ourselves in when doing the job.
If the subfloor needs to come out I rip "bays" out between the joists with a circular saw...then come back and pry up the strips of floor set on the joist tops...these smaller strips often come out as splinters...this is a more controlled demo over trying to get larger chunks out...its also easier on the back by not having to lift or pry large pieces.
I never would recomend anything relaying to tile on linoleum scuffed or not, unless you use a fortified thinset but that's still risky. your better off taking it up then using a belt sander. unless the subfloor is plank flooring or is old and Past it's age you can usually go over it if it's ply or osb but with only more wood if it's a single layer then its most likely 3/4". If there is ever a hight issue for me anyway I usually use ditra or A/C ply. But your tile is only as good as the structure you put it on. It gets complex with staggering and grain deflection.
I just pulled some lino up the other day in a Kitchen tiling project...the sheet product was set on older 12 square. The sheet material separated leaving the cardboard like middle exposed...I thought I was going to have a bugger of a time getting that up...but lucky for me ( and the client) this was set over old VCT which was set with the old black tar type adhesive...this was dry and failed....a 4" drywall tapping knife lifted the old VCT's with the 1/2 layer of the sheet product on top...I had the whole kitchen stripping in about 20 minutes....This remodel is in a 3 rd floor condo that has a concrete slab...the tile I set is now looking sweet and bomb proof.