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07.22.12

Tiling bathroom floor

I'm planning on tiling our bathroom floor this summer. Floor is on 2nd floor, wood and linoleum. Do I need to put down anything before I tile and what do I do around toilet?
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  • KMS Woodworks Nederland, CO
    The denshied stuff is still a gypsum based product...The core is still vulnerable to moisture damage. I have been using Hardibacker as my preferred backer for 12 years of so. I remember seeing a sample of hardibacker was sealed up in a plastic jar with
  • While DensShield backer board is a great product, one must understand it does little to increase the structural resistance to floor movement. Your current sub floor must be tight and resist any movement. Also I would steer clear of using roofing nails to
  • Hamtil Construction LLC Saint Louis, MO
    I love the jar test! If you have a tile floor submerged in water for 5 years though, you have bigger problems.

    Thanks for your thoughts guys. To each his own... for us, it's always been a fantastic product which we have had no issues

  • Mark Potter Salt Point, NY
    Take the linoleum up. Need 1" of ply for tile whats the subfloor structure looking like. You can use ditra mat if you can't afford the hight of the 1/4" cbu.
  • Ditra is a great product, but its not structural. It is only for bond breaking so the floor below can expand and contract without disturbing the tile floor that is set on it. The thickness which I assume you already know if your using Schluter-Ditra
  • Mark Potter Salt Point, NY
    Yes indeed Woodbridge, ditra, and or cbu I like to call fillers are for that purpose both placed in thinset bed. Although I have tiled on plywood alone with no issues I wouldn't recomend it as a DIY project it gets really complex.
  • Home Repair Tutor Pittsburgh, PA
    Great discussion, I use 1/4" Hardiebacker over linoleum as long as the new install isn't going to be higher than the existing flooring in the next room. I scuff up the linoleum first before using thinset, then Hardiebacker. My preference on screws is to
  • If I was to approach this issue, I would if the linoleum height was low enough and the floor strong enough, I would simply treat the linoleum as a vapor barrier, nail down wire mesh and put a thin mud floor down then tile.
  • Home Repair Tutor Pittsburgh, PA
    One question for everyone, what is your method for tearing out a floor like this? For example, do you simply just cut small squares with a circular saw and pry them out or is there an easier way?
  • KMS Woodworks Nederland, CO
    If the subfloor needs to come out I rip "bays" out between the joists with a circular saw...then come back and pry up the strips of floor set on the joist tops...these smaller strips often come out as splinters...this is a more controlled demo over
  • Mark Potter Salt Point, NY
    I never would recomend anything relaying to tile on linoleum scuffed or not, unless you use a fortified thinset but that's still risky. your better off taking it up then using a belt sander. unless the subfloor is plank flooring or is old and 
  • KMS Woodworks Nederland, CO
    I just pulled some lino up the other day in a Kitchen tiling project...the sheet product was set on older 12 square. The sheet material separated leaving the cardboard like middle exposed...I thought I was going to have a bugger of a time getting that
  • Home Repair Tutor Pittsburgh, PA
    KMS,

    Post your pics of the new tiling project, I like bomb proof for rentals. LOL

  • KMS Woodworks Nederland, CO
    Still have a bit to go...I'll post when we get more finshed...the befores and after will knock your socks off....the owner keeps saying..." I should have raised the rent"
  • Home Repair Tutor Pittsburgh, PA
    They should raise the rent, there is no better way to get value than to redo a bathroom or kitchen.
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