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Hometalk is where people share and help with everything home & garden

Brenda F

Brandenburg, KY
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My Recent Boards

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About Me:

I am a 56 yr old widow...love working out in the garden..and doing things myself.

Favorite area of home improvement:

outside...decks and yard


Recent Activity


Marg C Patty S Monasmith
  • Brenda F
    Followed 3 people Yesterday
  • Japanese pagoda, I made with concrete and plastic pots as moulds. 10
  • A view from my upper deck 3
  • This will become a path light. 1

The Japanese garden pagoda I built by using plastic plant pots and cement.

I collected plastic pots of different shapes and sizes, cut the bottoms off, slit them up one side and taped the slit back together. filled them with concrete and then removed the pot by ...»
removing the tape after they dried 24 hours. They are still a bit damp so you can do "wet carving" on them to make your forms more rounded or smoothe. I used rebar again as I had with the Polatems in my earlier post, or you could use conduit, and make them into lanterns. Be sure to put a hole in the middle of each piece so you can fit them over the rebar/conduit. The circular pieces I made by just rolling in my hands...other pieces can also be made such as a finial for the top, which I have yet to make and put on the top.

Patty S
Patty S Sturgeon Bay, WI
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  • Brenda F
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Terra Cotta Pot Fountain

INSTRUCTIONS: You can see from the picture what kind of pots I used. The large basin on the bottom is plastic. You can also use a very large terra cotta saucer, but it doesn't hold much water and you have to keep refilling. I know because I tried it.

You can use any size pots you want. I like the strawberry pot because the water comes out of the holes.

The pump sits on the bottom of the big basin. You put a large size pot upside down in the big bowl to ...»

cover the pump as you see it in the picture, then stack other pots as you like. Then you just run clear hose (Lowes) from the pump (also Lowes) up to the top saucer. You have to do a little cutting and drilling on the first pot that the pump is under. Cut out a little space on the edge of that pot so the electrical cord can run through and so that the pot can sit flat and also drill a few holes in the upper rim of that pot so water can flow inside to the pump. Since the pots already have holes in the bottom, you will only have to drill through the center of the saucers to run the hose up.

You have to use a masonry bit. They are a little expensive, but well worth it. You should get a bit large enough to drill a hole the same size as the holes in the pots. Then get a hose wide enough, but one that will easily slide through to the top. I got everything I needed at Lowes.

Put colored stones or rounded river stones (Lowes again) in the top and middle saucers for decoration. The stones will control how your water comes out of the top. Good luck. Have fun.

Debbie M
Debbie M Hazleton, PA
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  • Brenda F
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  • My finished $18 console table styled at the top of our staircase landing!
  • In progress...
  • Making sure everything stays together!
  • Ready to stain the base!
  • Delicious dark walnut stain :)
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DIY $18 Console Table

For $18 and some change, I built a custom console table to fit the blank wall at the top of our staircase landing!
Caitlin @ Desert Domicile
Caitlin @ Desert Domicile Tucson, AZ
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  • Brenda F
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Make your Own Mattress Freshener and Carpet Powder

I like to keep my mattresses fresh and clean smelling as well as my carpets by using this easy to make powder with only Baking Soda and Essential oil. I used a recycled Starbucks bottle ...»
and poked some holes in the lid to make it shakeable. Details can be found here:

Mary Beth
Mary Beth Coraopolis, PA
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  • Brenda F
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  • Some of my hypertufa planters 2
  • Perlite, Sphagnum Peat Moss and Portland Cement and the main ingredients.
  • I used two disposable items for each planter.  You will be pouring the mixture between them so you want them to be different sizes.
  • Two bowls make a great mold.  You could also use two boxes. 1
  • The mixture poured between the juice container and the pop cup.
  • After drying.
  • I tried to make a hand using a glove as the mold,   Would have been perfect to "hold" succulents,  but I haven't perfected that one yet.  The fingers are too thin and kept breaking off :( 3
  • See 4 more photos

Making Lightweight Hypertufa Planters

Last summer I made my first set of hypertufa planters. They have the look of rough cement, but are quite lightweight. ...»

Supply list:

Perlite, Sphagnum Peat Moss, Portland Cement, Water, Cooking Spray (I used Pam), Large bucket or something to mix your ingredients in, Rubber gloves, Particle mask, Safety glasses, Various plastic or cardboard containers to use as molds

Wear your rubber gloves, particle mask and safety glasses!!! Portland cement can be nasty if inhaled, gets on your skin or in your eyes. Don't make me come over there and put them on you!

Mix equal parts of Perlite, Sphagnum Peat Moss and Portland cement. Add enough water to make it a cottage cheese like consistency.

Spray your containers with cooking spray and then fill the areas between the two items with the mixture.

Wrap your planters-to-be in a plastic garbage bag and patiently wait for them to harden. I let mine dry for 24 hours in the bag and then 4 days outside the bag.

A little more detail can be found on my post, which is linked below, and I also show you how to make a sphere.

Warning - these are sort of addictive to make. You will find yourself making them in all sorts of shapes and sizes.

#OutdoorProjects

House Of Hawthornes
House Of Hawthornes Columbus, OH
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  • Brenda F
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How to turn ordinary cabinets into cottage classics

Our new kitchen cabinets started out as plain looking boxes and with the installation of under cabinet accent rails, cabinet corbels, crown moulding and some cabinet feet we've ...»
transformed them into cottage looking classics that suit our old house. Here's how we made the corbels:

1. We started by making a template out of cardboard. We looked all over the internet for ideas and after several attempts (we had so many masking taped to the wall), we settled on our design.

2. We traced our template onto 1X10 pine board and carefully cut with a jigsaw.

3. Then we sanded like crazy, primed and painted them the same colour as the cabinets (our Ikea Stat cabinets are Benjamin Moore Simply White).

4. We installed strapping (they are strips of wood used when building interior ceilings or walls to temporary hold up the insulation or wiring) directly under the cabinet. There are various lengths and widths available, we used 1/4 X 11/2" wood. They corners were cut on an angle and made to fit. They could also be bigger if you wanted to have task lighting underneath, we don't.

5. Because our trim and corbels are for looks only - they do not support the cabinets - they are attached to the wall with Sikaflex. It's a waterproof cauking type joint sealant and adhesive perfect for this application and it's easy to paint over too.

6. We did the same thing for the cabinet feet. We made a design we were happy about and prepared them the same way. They are screwed into the toe kick board and do not support the cabinets - for looks only!

We added some other cottage elements to kitchen too:

- The tops of the cabinets have regular crown moulding on them. We measured the cabinets first and made them so that they would be separate from the cabinet and they can be removed for cleaning etc.

- Our floor is pine 1X6 wood. We used a marine grade sealant for between the boards and we painted it with porch paint. Sometimes I seal it but I didn't with this colour as I might repaint it soon...

- The stools are plain ole' garage stools from the hardware store and I had slip-covers made for them - they are easy to remove & clean.

- The farmhouse sink, butcher block counters and cabinets are from Ikea. We put all that together ourselves!

- The backsplash is just chalkboard paint right on the wall with a little piece of trim nailed & glued on and then painted the same.

- This isn't a cottage element but my Island floor cabinets are the perfect height for an Elementary school kid to hang his stuff. It's right by the back door too - perfect!

- The curtains are some fabric I found and since I don't sew, they are glued together - nobody can tell they are home-made and I don't care, they match the floor colour (for now).

- When we installed the new windows we framed them with some home-made brackets and a narrow upper shelf and then painted it trim colour.

Thanks for reading ~ Heather at www.inspiremeheather.com

Heather Inspired
Heather Inspired Canada
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  • Brenda F
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Homemade Chalk Paint Recipe

I've been using this recipe for making homemade chalk paint for several months now and I'm really pleased with the results. It gives a really nice finish on furniture projects with a minimal amount of prep. And it's thrifty too!

Sharon @ Elizabeth & Co.
Sharon @ Elizabeth & Co. Westminster, MD
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  • Brenda F
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  • Painting with Chalk Paint
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  • Annie Sloan Chalk Paint and Wax Brush

Painting with Chalk Paint

This is a great guide for beginners if you've never tried chalk paint before. Chalk paint allows you to paint virtually anything WITHOUT sanding or priming your piece first! I love that! ...»
I took an old console table and walked through the process of painting and waxing.

Kim Sand & Sisal
Kim Sand & Sisal Virginia Beach, VA
14 Comments | Post Comment | 5698 Views
  • Brenda F
    Clipped 2 days ago to Cool Projects
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  • DIY Kitchen makeover with addition of window seat
  • Framing out a window seat
  • How to accommodate a vent in the bay window
  • Finishing off the front of a DIY window seat
  • Adding storage to a DIY Window Seat
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How to build a window seat in a weekend!

Window seats are not only beautiful but functional as well, especially when they contain storage! Here is a step by step do it yourself guide to building your own window seat, over the weekend from At The Picket Fence.

2 Days 100.00 Moderate
At The Picket Fence
At The Picket Fence Florence, KY
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  • Brenda F
    Clipped 2 days ago to Cool Projects
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