number, or "naturalize," when happy. Since the days have cooled off in much of the country, but the ground is still relatively warm, we are in prime bulb-planting time. Bulbs planted now will get right to work establishing their root systems. I've planted thousands of them over the years, and here are some basics based on that experience.

1. Good soil counts. Take the time to prepare the bed where you are going to be planting. Good drainage is particularly important, as most bulbs like it on the dry side during their period of dormancy.

2. A general rule for planting depth is that it should be three times a bulb's diameter. So a tulip bulb two inches across should be planted

six inches deep.

3. Don't be afraid to make bulb "sandwiches." More than one type of bulb can share a planting hole. Put the largest on the bottom, sprinkle on a little soil, add a smaller bulb, sprinkle on a little more, and finish up with a small bulb on top with just a couple of inches of soil over that.

4. Generally speaking, plant the pointy side of the bulb facing up. Sometimes this can be difficult to figure out, in which case plant the bulb on its side and it will actually right itself.

5. Don't fertilize when you plant. This may contradict advice you have read, but I've never done it. Using a product like bone meal in the planting hole can attract critters that will then feast on the bulbs. Instead, apply a good slow-release fertilizer as the foliage starts to appear in the spring. And a twice-yearly top-dressing with compost wouldn't hurt either.

6. But do water when you plant, just as you would something that came in a pot. And in the spring, if you don't get those April showers.

7. More is more. Don't skimp on the number of bulbs you buy. A dozen crocus will go almost unnoticed but a hundred will make a statement.

8. This is not a planting tip, but resist all temptation, after the blooming season, to braid, tie up or cut the bulb's foliage until it begins to turn yellow and flops over. Then it is safe to cut it off. Doing anything else beforehand will impinge on the plant's ability to photosynthesize, which is crucial to the formations of the next season's blooms.

The photos are from companies I have ordered from over the years and can recommend based on my experience. I've included links to their web sites in the captions.

What bulbs are you planting this season?

he'll know where to find it), you can create an amazing flower or herb planter that your neighbors will talk about all year long (in a good way)! For more photos and a detailed How To Tutorial, please visit Meredith @ Wait Til Your Father Gets Home! http://www.waittilyourfathergetshome.com/20...

The Herb Spiral is a nature-inspired vertical garden design that is highly productive and energy efficient. It allows you to stack plants in a pyramid to maximise space - a practical and attractive solution. It is typically 6.5ft wide in diameter at the base, ascending to 3.2- 4.2ft, with the center of the spiral at the highest point. The spiral ramp provides a planting area large enough to accommodate all your common culinary herbs but is certainly not limited to just growing herbs!

If you are interested in how the design works and all the benefits, you can read more about them at http://themicrogardener.com/15-benefits-of-a....

I thought I'd share a tutorial on this DIY project which can be as cheap and cheerful or elaborate as your budget allows - the materials vary widely so you can choose something that meets your taste, time and skill level. There are plenty of videos, specs and tips in the full online tutorial that will help you get the feel for the various options you have and stages of the project.

I've helped build them from scratch in just a few hours - it's about organizing your materials and having the site ready - bribing a couple of friends with some yummy food to help give you a hand doesn't hurt either!

Here are the basics you need to know:

Choose a site ideally located close to your kitchen door for quick access to fresh herbs. Orientate the bottom of your spiral on the northern side in the Northern hemisphere or southern side in the Southern hemisphere. This creates micro climates that allow you to plant a wide variety of herbs that enjoy different positions - sun, shade, dry or moist.

Materials: (these are just typical 'ingredients' you can use and the basic 'recipe').

· Cardboard (without ink or tape), weed mat or gravel – optional but useful to kill weeds if building your spiral straight on top of lawn. (I avoid carpet because it's likely been treated with chemicals that will leach into the soil as it breaks down). Alternatively, you may need a drill for drainage holes if building on concrete.

· Long stake. Secure a 1m length of string to the stake and tie at the other end with a lightweight stake, bamboo cane or chalk. Use this to draw a line on the ground to measure out the circle.

· Organic matter such as mushroom compost, worm castings, lucerne, mulch, straw and garden soil to build fertility to feed your garden long term (quantity depends on diameter of your spiral).

· Compost (for planting your herbs into – preferably home made so it will be full of living microorganisms or alternately, a certified organic compost).

· Rock minerals and organic fertiliser (to add nutrients to your soil).

· Mulch (whatever you have available) e.g. lucerne, sugarcane, baled grassy mulch hay, pea straw, grass clippings,leaves, etc.

· Herb seedlings; bay tree and vegetable seedlings if planting.

· (Optional) pond materials and irrigation fittings if including.

STEP 1: Measuring up – Have someone hold or bang the stake into the central point of the ground where you want to position your herb spiral. To determine the perimeter, stretch out the string attached to the center stake to mark out your circle, drawing a line in the soil with the other stake or bamboo cane tied on the end of it (or use chalk if you are marking out a hard surface). The diameter averages between 5 –6.5 ft or 2.5 – 3.25 ft from the center.

STEP 2: Your base – if starting on lawn you will need to stop weeds from growing. Cardboard can be used for this purpose to sheet mulch and build the spiral on top. No light = no weeds! Lay your weed mat or wet cardboard (soak with a hose or in a wheelbarrow) to cover the circle you have marked out.

STEP 3: Construct the wall structure – Using your edging material of choice, start laying your bricks/rocks on the outer edge and working inwards to create a spiral shape, allowing about 1.6 ft width to plant into or adjust if making a smaller spiral.

Once you have your basic shape laid out around the circumference, add a second tier of bricks, remembering the outside 'wall' of your spiral is lowest (e.g. 2 bricks high or perhaps 1-2 rocks depending on size – enough to retain your soil).

The middle will usually end up about 1m (2.5 ft) high with a central planting area, gradually tapering down in height on a light slope to the bottom. You can block it off or add your bog/pond at the base if using.

STEP 4: Add your organic materials & nutrition – for each of us this will be different, depending on what you have easy access to. Some people only add mulch or straw to their herb spiral and plant into pockets of compost. If you're on a tight budget or this is all you have access to, then this system of 'growing soil' will work fine but 'dead dirt' is unlikely to bring you a successful outcome! There are plenty of tips on ways to make your own soil in the online tutorial. For which herbs to plant where, you can find more info @ http://bit.ly/14vJxmJ

I'd love to see pics if you've built one and if you haven't, I hope this inspires your next project!