We have a metal chimney in our living room for a wood burning stove.
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KMS Woodworks on Sep 15, 2011Is there chimney behind this wall on the exterior of the home? detaching the lower elbow would be the easiest , and leave the exterior portion in place. If this buried in a wall the amount of work would be had to justify.Helpful Reply
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Woodbridge Environmental Tiptophouse.com on Sep 16, 2011The chimney is not to hard to remove, but you need to start at the top and do a section at a time. Depending on the type of chimney that was installed these two or three foot sections can be a bit on the heavy side. There is a ring that surrounds each pipe at each joint. This ring slides up with a little help of a hammer and small block of wood. Once its up it should release a few metal tabs that connects each section together. Once they are bent out just slightly to release simply rock side to side gently and lift. The pipe should come out. Some contractors also use screws on the pipe, so check for any and remove as they too can hold the pipe together. Work down until you get to the bracket that is just outside of the house. Remove it and the inside pipe should come right out. patch and enjoy the new round window in the wall.Helpful Reply
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KMS Woodworks on Sep 17, 2011In most of the chimneys I have installed or worked on the sections of pipe "twist lock" together with out any tabs or collars...this is for Simpson Duravent type Class A insulated "Chimney pipe"....Stove pipe by comparison is often single wall and sometimes called "black pipe" A lot of these insert into each other with a crimped end, much like clothes dryer vent pie. Both of these type have radically different clearances to combustibles (18" for the black pipe and 2" for the class A.) The thing sticking through your wall is called a wall Thimble it is often used as a transition piece from "black pipe" to "Class A" . The first link below is an example of a section of Class A http://www.ventingpipe.com/duravent-9607ga-8-x-48-galvanized-class-a-chimney-pipe-length/p1760137 This second link is how the better installs are done on the outside of a home. This larger bracket holds a "tee" which can be opened at the bottom to allow Chimney sweeping events allow 95% of the debris to fall straight down. http://www.ventingpipe.com/duravent-9472ga-6-class-a-chimney-pipe-adjustable-galvanized-tee-support-bracket/p1760816 When these wall brackets are used they support the bottom of the chimney run so 100% of the weight is not resting in or with the pipe sections themselves...in these cases you do not have to start at the top...though you may need to remove some weight to disassemble some sections. How yours is connected on the outside may vary...some pics here would help. Class A is used where close clearances are needed and on the outside...by being insulated they stay warmer and allow proper drafting to occur better. Rather than ripping out the wall thimble I would build a "book case" type device and use it to "hide" the thimble. One other area of inside looks will be the "hearth" Code requires a combustion proof surface where this stove sits....tile, brick etc. Our your planning to "hide" that as well?Helpful Reply
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Woodbridge Environmental Tiptophouse.com on Sep 17, 2011Yea your correct on the twist on type as well. Not a big seller in my parts of the woods, but they could also have that type as well. In any case both can be taken down without much difficulty other then weight and working up high.Helpful Reply
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