How and Why to Make a Wood Toner
by
Elisha PneumaticAddict
(IC: blogger)
Easy
Just like a toner you would get over your highlights in the salon, a wood toner is a translucent coat that lightly deposits color over the surface. It can be used to neutralize unwanted tones (like brassy highlights), even out blotchy color, or darken an existing finish.
Ever have a staining project not turn out how you imagined? Sometimes, even after using a pre-stain conditioner, you are left with a splotchy mess. Often the solution is to use a wood toner. Best. Decision. Ever.
Allow the uneven stain to dry completely. For oil-based stains, that can take up to a couple days in humid areas. During that time, you can mix up your wood toner. Wood toners are used in commercial applications all the time. A majority of store bought furniture has a couple coats of toner, to even out the finish.
If you research wood toners, you will probably end up on a professional wood worker forum, and they will be throwing around terms like "pre-cat", "HVLP" and "TransTint". Its not that complicated, and despite what you might read, it doesn't have to be sprayed. Toner can be applied with a high quality brush. A wood toner is simply pigment, mixed into a "watered down", clear finish. (I say the term "watered-down", but if you decided to use an oil-based finish, make sure to use mineral spirits, or lacquer thinner.)
Spray or brush on the toner. Be careful, it will be VERY thin and easily runs. You will want to apply the toner on a horizontal surface, if possible and remember "less is more". Use multiple, thin coats to build the coverage you want.
This is how my sample board looked after 3 coats. Although there is finish mixed into the toner, its really only there to grab onto the wood. It won't provide much protection. I recommend at least 2 coats of clear to protect your work.
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Published March 15th, 2015 5:00 PM
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Jan Nelson on May 25, 2015For Susan: If I wanted to lighten, I would try sanding a little at a time until I reached what looked to be near what I wanted, probably a shade lighter because it would darken a bit when sealed.
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I recently bought this same product to darken my orangey cabinets that have an existing lacquer finish on them. When i got home, I read that you shouldn't use this over a lacquer finished surface because it could have issues with peeling. I did a test area and it looks like it stuck well......i got it colored with vandyke brown. Even after the recommended 3 coats, some orange hues still show, I want it a little darker. Is there a color that's a little darker than vandyke brown that might work better??