@Jean, I can see the double pane windows being an issue due to the design of the window itself. Our windows are not double pane. I have noticed, believe it or not, the transferred heat energy into the home is much less, but that solar energy doesn't dissappear obviously. (Energy is neither created, not destroyed). The film itself appears to hold (absorb) the heat instead of letting it come through the window. I have a laser thermometer and on a 95F degree day, the window film can easily read well over 100F. 105-110F as opposed to a clear window only reading slightly above the normal 2-3F difference due to the energy being allowed to come into the home. With that being said, that energy may not be ideal for a double pane window with internal structures, but for my single pane, there isn't a issue that I can think of or experienced. Thanks for sharing your experience you had. It is always good to know the good and the not so good.

@YaminiM LEED AP, The film on our windows are still in place and has saved us so far about a whooping $10-15/month compared to the electrical bill from the previous year for the same month's electrical bill. I have been keeping up with the difference and so far it appears to be performing exactly as indicated. The rooms especially upstairs are noticably cooler (heat rises) and the A/C unit upstairs does not have to run constantly as it once did. We keep the temp upstairs @ 75F and the unit downstairs at 74F. The unit upstairs still runs more than the unit down stairs, but that could be just the design of the house and the way the air circulates with the open floor design. The units both are 3 yrs old and are kept on a maintance schedule so they run pretty effieciently. There are many times during the day in the middle of summer that neither unit is running (rare), but it happens and I think the window film has a lot to do with it along with proper insulation in the home of course.

@Maria Rosario, no I didn't install it myself. This is a 3M product and only an authorized dealer can install it for the warranty to be active.

the first week. Every other day for the second week and every 3rd day for the third week. By week 4 it should be on an as needed basis. Ofcourse if it is really hot, you may need to apply more to make sure the grass is staying hydrated.

window film also. Our home is 2800 sq ft. Last bill was $109.19. 2 SEER HVAC units both set to 74 degrees. The wife can't do 78 degrees. I tried it. LOL...

Bahia or Bermuda I think would be a consideration. I have St. Augustine (Floratam) and really like it, but it is a water loving grass. I have Bahia also. It is very easy to grow. Just needs iron sometime as it will have bright yellow spots sometime. Give it iron and it will green up with pleasure. I do fertilize my lawn regularly also.

not be needed. If you need it, that is a good time to adjust the soil acidity level with soil sulfur or lime if needed, as determined by a soil test, but adding lime just to be adding is not always recommended. I normally just work in some organic matter. This can help improve soil structure to increase the water holding and nutrient holding ability of the site and gives the new sod a fighting chance to survive.

can change depending on the winter harshness. Just make sure it's before the ground temp gets to 65 degrees consistanly. This pre-emergent will help to keep it from germinating from the last batch.

This site is useful with keeping up with the ground temps.

http://www.greencastonline.com/SoilTempMaps....

If it is already up and growing. Pre-Emergent won't Help. You will need a post emergent like crabgrass alert. Located in Lakeland, FL.

http://www.crabgrassalert.com/crabgrass_kill...

Works really well for spiders.