1. Cover any used jar (keep the lid) with flat-bottom marbles (also sold as 'florist stones' or 'glass gems'). I use GE Silicone II sealant (clear, waterproof) as an adhesive.

2. Mount the lid on a post or dowel.

3. Attach the jar.

Notes and tiny treasures can be added at any time.

Full instructions, material list, and sources are listed on my blog here: http://www.empressofdirt.net/gardentreasurej...

We have been so fortunate to have met a lot of wonderful new people through the process - and, more importantly, it has really helped to build the farm and fund projects like the sensory garden and new chicken coop.

We thought we would share some of the pictures, tips and hints that we have learned when it comes to building a beautiful and durable outdoor garden pergola.

A Strong Base Is The Key To A Strong Pergola:With any outdoor structure, everything starts with the base. To put it simply, don't skimp on your posts.

When working with wood, a 4 x 6" or 6 x 6" post is your best choice for long-term durability. 4 x 4" posts - although much less expensive than the thicker ones, simply won't hold up over time. They will begin to bend and bow - and within a year or two - your structure can start to look more like a curvy art sculpture than an outdoor oasis.

Choosing The Type And Thickness Of Wood:There are a lot of choices when it comes to what species and thickness of wood to use. It really comes down to personal preference. We build all of our beams and top purlin boards from 2" thick lumber. Although there are thinner and less costly options - the 2" thickness gives the piece long-term strength and durability.

Almost all of our pergolas are made from treated lumber. It's a great choice when looking to handle harsh outdoor conditions. It's also very versatile - you can leave it to weather to a natural grey patina - or paint or stain it to match almost any wood species or decor.

Cedar is another viable option, but the cost of cedar is becoming astronomical, and it is very hard to find in 2" thickness. No matter the wood species, thinner boards tend to end up like the thinner posts, bowed and curvy over time.

Securing The Structure:A lot of people ask us if its better to bury the posts, or to mount them on a concrete pad or footer. It really comes down to personal preference, as both work well.If you have an existing concrete patio - then by all means securing your posts with a bracket is the way to go. You can find simple plate anchors (Simpson ties, etc.) at most home improvement and hardware stores that do an excellent job of securing posts to concrete.

If you choose to bury your posts - make sure to dig down deep enough to get below the frost line and prevent it from heaving out of the soil. For ours on the farm we buried our posts 24" and then back-filled with packing limestone gravel and dirt.

Quite simply, the important thing is to definitely secure it! If it's not secured, all it can take is one little serious windstorm to turn your beautiful little paradise into a pile of toothpicks.

Jim and MaryIf you would like to receive our DIY & Gardening Tips every Tuesday – be sure to sign up to follow the blog via email in the right hand column, "like" us on Facebook, or follow us on Twitter

Milner Village Garden Centre is a girl's dream day out. It's a store and greenhouse all in one. But they're ramping it up and making it about workshops and an amazing lunch too!

I'll be in front of a demo table junkin' up the joint with pretty plants and such. AND in a separate segment, talking about how SOCIAL MEDIA can step up your gardening passion and business. I mean, could you imagine not sharing our gardening on Hometalk?! :)

There will be other demo tables and speakers too! (see main poster in photos)

If you are a local, I'd LOVE to meet you! If you aren't a local, watch the hashtag to capture all the updates and blogposts and pictures and setup and shopping and and and and such! This is gonna be a hoot!

#HTMeetupMilner

I used 5 pallets and some wood scraps to make these two and that part was free. If you want to paint or add cushions (recommended!) that will be extra but all in all this cost me $10 for the red paint and that's it!

The basic idea of how to make these is to take two pallets of the same rectangular shape and stack them on top of each other, do the same with the second lounge chair. Then take the last pallet, divide it in half and add some wood scraps to construct two backrests that you attach to the stacked pallets with two screws. Minimal sanding and some paint and you're done.

I must warn you that the idea is simple but deconstructing the 5th pallet is pretty hard physical work but can be made easier if you have the proper tools and/or a muscular guy to help :)

Check out my blog for more photos and detailed instructions on how I went about it:

http://shoestringpavilion.blogspot.com/2010/...