I have to do this within the next few weeks to the master bathroom. Someone decided that those plastic caulking strips that you push into the crevice would suffice as a seal. Hah, what a joke! Anyways, can you tell me of caulk goes around the fixtures themselves?
I ended up getting quite a bit of practice with Silicone caulk when I tried to seal up gaps where wood met brick around the door and window frames. I learned very fast that Silicone is sticky and can lead to a big mess in a hurry. This has me looking at different caulks such as Latex Acrylic that's easier to handle. However, I mastered the technique of dipping my index finger into a cup of soapy water and putting down a nice finish. Still working practicing on my Nozzle angle cutting and
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applying a steady bead of caulk without lifting the gun to start over.
The hardest thing I discovered with caulk is that you need to use the long, sharp needle on the caulk gun to break the seal within the tube of caulk. I failed to do this with my first tube and I broke the caulk gun because I was squeezing with both hands to get the caulk to come out. Instead of coming out of the nozzle, it came out of the back of the tube and made a big mess within the gun.
Outside, you had the right idea to use a solvent base caulking for more flexibility where two different materials meet and there are larger joints and more movement. However, there is never a good reason to use silcone around anything paintable, even the paintable kind.
After taking out the loose caulk between the brick and trim, you can use the polyurethane there, with backer rod where needed.
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When applying latex caulk, use the same method with no soap and you will get a perfect bead everytime.
It sounds like you are well on your way to earning your license and becoming what my latino friends call a pistolero.
In order to get away from the tedious and time intensive use painter's tape, I once tried it free-handed like I watched some installation people do it. Thought it was a snap... What a mess I made!
Doing it free-hand takes practice, practice and patience.
When caulking baths, always clean the area thoroughly with Krudkutter or Microban prior to caulking to kill off any lingering mold/mildew. If you caulk over it, you've given it a great place to grow. Also use a premium bath caulk with Microban in it...I've used the GE product with good results. I typically freehand these but have been doing it for years. Great pics Peace.
Using mastic type caulk is the only time tape comes in handy so you can push it in and around and make an even look. It can be done without it but the lines don't come out crisp.
The job took about 2 hours and can be done for around $75., if we are working there and don't have to make an extra trip.
Great post Peace. Only thing I would add is to add water to tub to weigh it down so any gaps open up between tub and tiles. Some low cost steel tubs move a bit when weighted down.
When I first started painting, all the products we used were oil base, including ceiling and wall paints. There were no respirators at that time. Almost everyday we came home loopy. The only thing that would take that knawing feeling in our stomach was a beer. And that's how painters got their reputation.
Now, I cannot afford to lose anymore IQ points so on goes the respirator.
That is why your still in business. We all have to be a bit loopy to do some of the stuff we do! Now they are taking all the fun out of it by being green.
In the floor finishing biz...it still is that way when working with some of the catalyzed...glitza type finishes...Those that do not use a respirator are soon reduced to the mental capacity of a turnip.
Caulking is a trade in itself but this is a process you can pull off with a little finese and learning with a caulking gun.
It helps to get the correct amount in a smooth, even bead to start with. ...»
Also, try not to get soapy water on any surface that the caulk has not contacted yet.
Happy gun slinging,
CP
The hardest thing I discovered with caulk is that you need to use the long, sharp needle on the caulk gun to break the seal within the tube of caulk. I failed to do this with my first tube and I broke the caulk gun because I was squeezing with both hands to get the caulk to come out. Instead of coming out of the nozzle, it came out of the back of the tube and made a big mess within the gun.
I'm much smarter now lol.
After taking out the loose caulk between the brick and trim, you can use the polyurethane there, with backer rod where needed. ...»
When applying latex caulk, use the same method with no soap and you will get a perfect bead everytime.
It sounds like you are well on your way to earning your license and becoming what my latino friends call a pistolero.
Chas.
In order to get away from the tedious and time intensive use painter's tape, I once tried it free-handed like I watched some installation people do it. Thought it was a snap... What a mess I made!
Doing it free-hand takes practice, practice and patience.
Thanks for the encouraging word Yamini.
Using mastic type caulk is the only time tape comes in handy so you can push it in and around and make an even look. It can be done without it but the lines don't come out crisp.
The job took about 2 hours and can be done for around $75., if we are working there and don't have to make an extra trip.
CP
Instead I sat in it.
Next, they've asked me to caulk the Space Station.
CP
Now, I cannot afford to lose anymore IQ points so on goes the respirator.