I've been in my home for near 20 years...and have a modest kitchen. In our plan for our "retirement " home at our ranch the Kitchen will only see a very minor change. ( add a small work space near the range, my current range only has space on one side) bigger is not always better.
@KMS & Shabby Daze - Ah hem . . . . . . . .with all due respect kids, she was ONLY asking about either the color or technique used on the far wall (am not sure which, the post was a little unclear) but I agree completely, the form & function seem to be seriously lacking here. However, I don't think this is even her kitchen - looks more like a model to me.
Exact color recipes are usually developed on site. This is so we can take into consideration all of the colors that are in the space, the lighting, etc. I rarely use paint mixed with glaze because you loose so much of the depth of colors and your "open time" is reduced. That is where you end up with snake lines and overlaps. Instead, a tinted glaze will yield a softer and more sophisticated appearance because of the way it can be manipulated.
I'd say...pick up some sponges, some test colors and have at it on some scraps of drywall. Once you hone your skills and get your colors dialed in then you can do your kitchen.
I got a look similar to this on our former home's kitchen walls. I painted on an undercoat. Then using a sponge and several different colors I just lightly sponged on the paint in a random pattern. I also dry brushed on another color to give more texture. It looked like old walls..kinda what you'd see in old French or Italian homes. People always asked if I could do their walls that way. Honestly I think I just lucked out cuz I don't know much about faux painting :-) But like KMS says,
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give it a shot. The worst case is that you have to repaint it :-) (And I did just that after many years when I wanted a new look.)
Is the original question asking how to "reach" the area to paint over the sponge painting? It looks as though there are lower cabinets/wine fridge/upper cabinets in the way, making it difficult to reach with a ladder in several areas. I think perhaps they were asking for color suggestions for painting over it, as well? The question just isn't clear.
Personally, I don't think it's sponge technique but rather "Rag Roll" technique or paper towel technique. It looks like three colors to me, red, yellow, and possibly blue.
There are several products to get this type of finish. Aqua Finishing Solutions is an excellent resource. Aqua stone is a pretty permant application which then would need to be sealed and glazed with about 3 different glazes-- blending, mixing, etc. Worth the money, I've worked with it many times. Google them.
You can also get texture with drywall joint compound but it isn't as durable....
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Another thought is, " Are you sure you want that texture in your kitchen?" Grease, smoke, etc, etc... jus sayin.' I used a flat wall with a 3 color glaze to get an old world look in my kitchen without the nooks and crevises of the texture.
The colors you could use are ocre, burnt sienna and a dark brown. start with a medium yellow or gold base. Pounce, blend and think about where the old "mildew stains would really be (cause that is what the dark really is portraying.... lol nice thought!
Boy howdy, that kitchen has a ton of money thrown into it. The wall finish was prohibitively expensive. If you've got regular old drywall I can tell you how to go about getting a similar finish without skim coating in plaster and adding all the texture. First off; go to a real paint store, (not a box store) do you have Miller Paint? I've faux finished every home I've owned, it's time consuming and requires some technique......deglaze walls to be painted with TSP and absolutely remove
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every bit of dust and haze with a non-oiled tac cloth. Prep is essential, apply joint compound over nail pops and holes and sand it out. Clean it up again with tac cloth and vacum the crap out of it with a soft bristled vacum attachment. Apply primer, (either or acrylic or oil based depending on how you'll approach your wall color and glazes, oil is always a better choice albeit higher voc's and dry time. You'll have to choose your wall color and your glaze tints; both are available in acrylic or oil. I've used Ralph Lauren glazes which are acrylic and it's fine but even after six months of curing they are still easy to damage. Roll on field color with 8" roller with appropriate nap for your wall texture (should be a smooth wall and if it is 1/4" nap on a DOVE brand roller is good). Allow more than ample dry time or you'll end up with a tacky mess. The paint may say you can recoat in 8 hours but hold of and wait 24 to 48 hours. This faux finish can somewhat be accomplished with a soft stipple brush and two glaze colors or a really saturated small rag or natural sea sponge and two glaze colors. Work in small irregular drifts so you won't end up with defined lines on the wall. Be prepared to do one entire wall in one glaze color at a time, it's important not to stop mid-wall. Corners where walls meet are a challenge, it's a good idea to practice before you attempt the real wall or room. Absolutely frog tape everything that you won't be painting; baseboard, window trim, etc. Box stores will sell you products that they swear will work, Behr, etc. They're all substandard products, their pigments are horrible and the body of their paint is ridiculously thin. Parker Paint is a decent alternative but don't put all the time in on this finish with inferior paint products, spend the $45/gallon on the paint (glaze is more) and buy good brushes, etc. and you'll get a much better result. I've attached a photo of a room I just faux finished. It's a close second to the photo you posted and far more reasonable for a diy'er. I used small bits of really good cheese cloth but you could easily use clean white tee shirts (without the seams). If you do pull out the big guns and use plaster Modern Masters is the manufacturer to use....they're online if you don't have a local resource. Have fun!
I did something similar to this. I put the darkest color on first, then followed with the closest color to that, etc, to the lightest on top. I used sponges and feather dusters. I practiced on my closet walls to get the look I wanted. That worked pretty well. It had a lot of texture and I loved it.
I also did this technique. I used three coats of paint. The dark coat I rolled on, The next coat I used a sea sponge on, which was a medium coat. The third coat was a lighter coat and I used shaped sponges on (southwest design) This technique is quite fun to do, just a little time consumging...like all worthwhile projects
This is at least a 4 layer finish with different texture products with varying aggregates. . . each tinted a specific color and then over glazed. Part of what gives the look is the trowel technique that is used on each layer.
Venetian plaster products may have been used to create the texture. But TRUE venetian plaster is perfectly slick and glossy. It is made of ground marble dust that is compressed by hand
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burnishing. . . VERY labor intensive. Many people make the mistake of referring to anything with texture as venetian plaster. That does not mean that texture is a bad thing. . . it is just a clarification of terms.
Here is an example of a true venetian plaster with multiple translucent colors. When you run your hand across it, it is perfectly smooth.
I would be happy to help you achieve this look. Give me a call.
I used cheese cloth to rag paint my kitchen, and sea sponge in the dining room. Colors look like mainly yellow ochre, raw sienna, a buttery yellow with maybe white over part, maybe a bit of burnt sienna or crimson toned way down, Crimson comes out much stronger than many colors. For the grey, raw umber mixed with colbalt blue or ultramarine & white. I use about 2 colors of wall paint as a base coat, then go in with my artist acrylic paints and brushes and rags. I do a combo of
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painting over dry coats and wet to blend. Finish with brushes to get the exact look and detailing. Sometimes I lightly blot with a rag or fan brush to soften. I probably make it sound way harder than it actually is, but with my art degree, this is how my brain works to make it look like an old world rock wall. In the dining room, I used 3 sponges for 3 shades of green and that was it.
I just installed a flagstone walkway for a client with colors similar to the painted wall picture you posted. I'll post pictures right after the granite dust is dry and swept off.
It could be one of a few technique but from the shot it's hard to say.
this is not my kitchen I just saw the picture and I liked the wall texture which is in the picture.my kitchen is much smaller that this.
yes .my question was about the color in the wall.soory, if my picture was not clear.!!!
You can also get texture with drywall joint compound but it isn't as durable.... ...»
Another thought is, " Are you sure you want that texture in your kitchen?" Grease, smoke, etc, etc... jus sayin.' I used a flat wall with a 3 color glaze to get an old world look in my kitchen without the nooks and crevises of the texture.
The colors you could use are ocre, burnt sienna and a dark brown. start with a medium yellow or gold base. Pounce, blend and think about where the old "mildew stains would really be (cause that is what the dark really is portraying.... lol nice thought!
Venetian plaster products may have been used to create the texture. But TRUE venetian plaster is perfectly slick and glossy. It is made of ground marble dust that is compressed by hand ...»
Here is an example of a true venetian plaster with multiple translucent colors. When you run your hand across it, it is perfectly smooth.
I would be happy to help you achieve this look. Give me a call.
http://www.hometalk.com/102238/i-was-walking...
Paint is one way to get the look...but so is tile.