Installing Rigid Vent Duct for a Bath Fan

by Building Moxie

1 Material

$20

1-4 Hour

Medium

While we installed a master bath a few years back, our contractor never sufficiently installed the bath fan venting. A fewweekends back, I used 4” rigid duct (*always* preferred) to vent this bath fan tothe outside.

Here are the basic steps with installing through a side wall:

1. Probe the selected location using a 12” probe bit. (Actuallyyou may notice I had to correct my placement because ofa stud in our attic’s side wall.)

2. Use a 4 ½” hole saw to drill through the exterior surface.

3. Assemble bath vent wall cap + extension & place inhole.

4. Lay out & “dry-fit” rigid duct - any required cutscan be made with “tin snips”. Adjustable elbows can be very handy here(Note: Each elbow used reduces the maximum allowable run by 4-5 feet, each).

5. Mount wall cap using exterior-rated screws. Caulk aroundthe wall cap’s perimeter.

6. Assemble rigid duct and connect to the bath fanconnector.

7. Use Foil Tape to seal all seams (over longer runs ½”self-tapping sheet metal screws are also recommended.)

8. Seal the penetration using expandable spray foaminsulation.

9. Removal all price stickers from the assembly. Whoops! ha!

In colder climates, it may be wise to additionally wrap this kind of pipe with insulation (and especially in an unconditioned space).

For more, important information about Bath Ventilation,please see my post linked below. Thanks & cheers ... and oh, the paint in my gable - getting to it. ~ jb @BuildingMoxie

installing rigid vent duct for a bath fan, bathroom ideas, home maintenance repairs, hvac

Probe Location

4 1/2" hole saw

Assemble wall cap

Layout piping.

Install Wall Cap

Mount Wall Cap

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Caulk at Wall Cap

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2 comments

Woodbridge Environmental Tiptophouse.com on Mar 26, 2014
Great advice on getting the moist air out. To add just a few additional thoughts as well. If your vent Is going through an unconditioned space such as an attic. Be sure to insulate the pipe if you do not use pipe that already is. When drilling the hole, be real careful when using a large hole saw bit such as this. If it binds and your up high on the ladder, it could throw you off. Use the small handle that comes with the drill to help you. Lastly I like the fact that the hole is drilled on the side of the house and not through the soffit as many are. New standards suggest that this is the way it should be done. Soffit style venting can fail and wind can back up into the pipe because of wind being trapped under the soffit area. On a wall its much easier for the bath fan to vent on a windy day!

1 Reply
- Building Moxie on Mar 26, 2014
  @Woodbridge Environmental Tiptophouse.com heya Robert thanks. First you are absolutely dead on about drilling up high. I've had it happen to me, not where I have fallen from a ladder, but have lost control and dropped a drill. (no harm) best too to start at a lower speed, get the surface scored then continue ... our areas, best to watch out for things like asbestos shingles hidden below the finished surface too. Second, even further on venting through a side wall. For me, my bath is at the street, this side of the house screened by a large maple. While I could have vented almost as easily through the roof (for arguable even better exhausting), really I didn't want the unsightly roof cap on the street-facing slope of my roof. Plus always gotta be a little leery about adding any penetration in the roof. Soffits, as you said, only as a last last resort. I did add a quick note on insulating this duct (which I haven't) and certainly a very good point. Let's say, because believe it or not - this may become at least a semi-finished space, I am reserving the right to leave it un-insulated for now. I have been monitoring, even with the cold weather we've had and have seen no signs of moisture build up. I may still insulate it in the future. Cheers my friend and thanks for adding your thoughts. ~jb
  
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