My sister wanted her new porcelain tile floor to look great. One way we accomplished this was by using HardieBacker underneath it.
My last few posts share why I love this cement board and how it prevents cracked tile. Today I want to show why the Incredible Hulk would have a hard time moving your tile once it's properly secured on top of HardieBacker.
Here are some quick takeaways that will help you understand why:
+HardieBacker should be placed on a supporting bed of thinset
+Use alkali resistant screws to fasten the HardieBacker to the wood subfloor
+Screws should be fastened every 8 inches within the panel field
+Fill joints between HardieBacker panels with the mortar you'll use to install the tiles
+Embed alkali resistant fiberglass tape on top of joints
+Smooth out the mortar that oozes out from the tape to avoid uneven tiles
...»
For more tips and numerous pictures click here http://www.homerepairtutor.com/how-to-instal...
If you have additional tips please share them with the Hometalk community.
Looks like we both love HardieBacker for floor tiles. Do you have a preference for cement board types in vertical wall applications? I have to admit I like DuRock for shower and tub surrounds.
So a subfloor of 3/4" and 1/2" on top should be used for maximum strength. If the hight is a issue ditra will work as a filler bond.
I do not like durock at all although 1/2" or 5/8 is what is use for walls pending your drywall match up.
Here is a pic in the "winter season" with the sunshine warming the entire width of the floor...the wiener dog loves it.
The big dent was from my M4 Carbine in 5.56mm with a regular 55 grain round at 100 YARDS...The Hole completely through the steel is from a NATO 855 penetrator round from my same M4 Carbine ...»
Some hardi may be OK for bird shot...but if Rifle rounds are involved...you better not be downrange...LOL