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Concrete & Masonry
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Concrete & masonry are functional and aesthetic aspects of a house that often need attention. Are you dealing with cracked or crumbling concrete or masonry? You're not alone - plenty of Hometalk members have faced similar challenges with concrete & masonry, and they're here to share their experiences with you. Since there are so many talented concrete and masonry pros on Hometalk, you can browse photos of their work for inspiration for your own concrete or masonry project.
The client wanted a level area behind their house that is atop a steep wooded hill. We built this 77' long wall using Pennsylvania fieldstone. The base of this wall is over three feet thick and the wall tilts back into the hill. This is important since the wall must retain the many tons of soil behind it.
This small backyard on Portland's west side was a hot mess! Now the homeowner has a beautiful paver patio making the space truly inviting. The potted bamboo will provide privacy while meeting the desire for a low care landscape.
We just purchased this house and it has a great 3/4 acre yard with a pond in front. It has a fountain, w/a spray fountain (see white pvc pipe in pic). We like it OK, but it is dirty as it
is under the trees and gets lots of leaves in it. The fountain leaks in back and the water keeps getting lower and lower, probably a hole in the liner somewhere.
So we are thinking of filling in the pond w/small red lava landscaping rock on bottom (lots of this in a garden we are redoing and I dislike it), then river rocks on top w/the fountain still bubbling up in the middle. Any suggestions on how to do this properly so that the water will not leak out, and we don't have to continue to refill the water level? Thanks for any ideas, I live in Wyoming so there is LOTS of snow in the winter and it is only used in the summer months.
Now we are also going to redo the front of the house w/a full length deck (eventually a roof over it). Have some cinder blocks, and thought about using wood decking over them w/the blocks as support. Do we need to place the blocks in sand to level? Or how should we proceed?
Doing fall preventive maintenance should include taking care of all the small or large cracks in your concrete driveway, steps, or walkways.
I recently did a small project that as you'll discover is pretty darn easy and can stop cracks from turning into bigger headaches.
If you have small horizontal cracks you can use concrete filler to seal them tight. Larger cracks should use polyfoam tubing as a filler then concrete filler on top-kinda like adding ketchup to a hot dog :).
Click on this link because I think you'll benefit from the tips as well as my headless home repair tutor video (hey, it's tough producing these short movies by yourself and plus, we're getting close to Halloween anyway) http://www.homerepairtutor.com/repairing-cra...
Yes! Pavers can be installed on top of an existing concrete deck, even if the deck is cracked. Pavers are installed over sand, therefore the new deck will absorb small shifts without
cracking the pavers. The renovation coping piece has a drop-down face that will cover the old coping, so you don't have to remove the old coping, just cut it back. The reno coping is then install over mud right on the top of the old pool border. The rest of the deck will be set on send. Just lay the pavers leveled with the reno coping. Check out some before and after pictures.
(www.oldworldgardenfarms.com )When we first started to put down some initial designs on paper – one thing we didn't want was a typical brick, mortar or stone outdoor kitchen. We wanted
something unique, and we wanted it to match the existing barn and reclaimed brick patio. Even more – we wanted to make it from the left over recycled barn materials we already had on hand. The only other requirement was to make sure we had enough counter space on each side to be able to easily prepare food straight from the garden to the grill.
We finally decided on a simple straight line island design. 14′ long, with a 48″ grill and burner slide-in space in the middle. Each side would then be flanked by 5 foot overhanging counters. We made the width of the counter 34″ to give extra surface room to prepare and serve foods. With limited time before a looming barn party– we opted for a simple wooden top for now to match the farm table – however- as future time allows – we really want to replace with some stained concrete countertops.
THE BUILDING PROCESS
We first built a simple 2 x 4 stud frame, leaving a 48″ space in the middle and front for the grill and burners to slide in. We used treated wood for the bottom to sit on the brick pad – and then built the rest from standard 2x lumber. Next -we encased the inside of the grill area with cement board to protect the structure from the heat of the grill. Then sided the entire structure with more of the left over corrugated roofing and trimmed it out to match the barn.
All that was left was to slide in the grill – attach the top and the outdoor kitchen project was complete!
We made this garden walkway with a mold that we purchased at Lowe's. We mixed the Quickcrete up and then poured it into the mold a section at a time. It was almost like making mud pies. It was a bit time consuming but we were very happy with the end result. It has held up very well as it has been down now for about 3 years.