Will these work to keep board down on to concrete?
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Looks to me like you're on the right track
Yes. You should predrill each hole through the board and concrete, add the plastic toggles into each hole in the concrete, reposition the board, then screw it in. Depending on your project, you can also apply liquid nails to each board before screwing for a more permanent installation.
As noted above, pre-drill- but you should use a hammer drill. A regular household drill won't go through concrete. These are exactly what we used to fasten the sill of our shed to the concrete pad. P.s. Tapcon also makes a drill bit specifically for these anchors. You'll need more than one if you're drilling more than 2 or 3 holes- they wear out quickly.
Chris is correct on all counts especially the hammer drill. I also recommend that you don't buy the Tapcon drill bits; invest in better masonry bits.
FYI: Tapcons do not need additional anchors. Here's some info on using Tapcons: https://www.concretefasteners.com/tips-and-tricks-tapcon
Be sure to use pressure treated wood.
Ok, let's get on the same page. This is an interior wood floor on concrete slab, correct? How is the wood attached to the the concrete, i.e. glued, screwed, nailed, or is it a floating wood floor? How thick is the wood? Is the concrete in good condition and dry? Please answer these questions and I should be able to help. I had a similar situation in my home 10 plus years ago that I repaired and it is still holding today.
Wish I could answer with authority Larry, but, unfortunately, I just purchased the house. Have been renting it, but, owner sold due to hard times. I had tried to adhere the wood slat to the concrete with a adhesive that I was told would work for both properties, but, it gets hot here, and, I think it released. Thought this was the way to go. I think the concrete is in good shape,...I seem to remember it being a bit uneven in spots, but, that was why the adhesive,.....I believe the wood was glued in place, but, not too sure. Have not seen any evidence of screws, or nails, so,......
I really appreciate your assistance with this,.....
Over 10 years ago, a toilet overflowed, some water just got to my 3/4" thick pine t&g flooring. There was a moisture barrier between the wood and concrete below, but the wood dampened by the overflow started to warp up. I used a forsner drill bit first and drilled down about 1/4" so that I could countersink the heads of the tapcon screws. Next I finished drilling thru the wood, hole sized to accommodate the size of the tapcons. Next I drilled the holes into the concrete with masonry bit. Important: make sure to use the correct size bit for the size tapcons you are using...it's listed on the package. I used my shop vac to suck out as much of the concrete dust/sawdust as I could. Then I set a few concrete blocks on top of the wood near the holes to hold it down. It took 3 concrete blocks to push it down. Then I screwed in the tapcons, using the kind that have the hex head on them. I removed the blocks and the screw held the flooring down. I left it for several days to feel comfortable that this would work, and it did. I needed 8 or 10 more screws in the various areas the floor had buckled. After that I used wood filler mixed with stain to closely match the floor and carefully filled the holes using a putty knife. Light sanding with 120 grit, then resealed with poly urethane, same as the original finish. This repair has lasted 10 plus years and most people can't tell the repair was done. Hope this helps.
Not sure you got my response before Larry, but, Yes,..it IS an interior floor board, (kitchen), adhered to a concrete flooring underneath. I believe it to be glued, but, unsure. I did try an adhesive that Lowe's suggested for those 2 mediums, but, it didn't hold very long. Now, am willing to try these screws, but, I don't have a drill for the concrete. Hopefully pick one up tomorrow.
The concrete appears to be in good shape....a bit ragged, but, from what I can see, no cracks. I believe it to be dry as well!
I truly appreciate your help on this Larry, Thank You!