Asked on Sep 08, 2016
Homemade toilet seat?
by
Kayakmama
+20
Seat level needs to be 1.5-2" higher than current rim for my elderly father's personal needs. (Need the height to keep his privates out of water and still be able to have feet on the floor) Other considerations: needs to be hinged for easy cleaning, able to be secured directly to the holes in toilet base, elongated shape, open at front, and cannot have a top lid. I have purchased medical seat lifts and searched the web. Nothing comes close. (Commode slides during transfer; nova 3.5" comes close in all respects except it needs to add 1.5-2"! I reasoned that by just being able to add a 1.5-2" hinged seat will solve the issue; however nobody manufactures one. Help?!
This is what I spent $60 on at medical store. It has the raised or elevated portion which is hinged.
This is the seat elevator with toilet seat. Privayes out of water+feet dangling=dangerous. BTW, he is 99 years old and may live to be 110.
Have you looked into a medical supply store? If they don't have this, they might have suggestions. Some cities often have organizations that help with sort of thing. Ask a phys therapist, maybe?
10/27/19
Gave up trying find a manufactured 1.5 inch riser.
Just finished this setup. I cut two pcs of 3/4 inch ply then glued them together. I made a pattern using cardboard for the back of the toilet. Then when the piece was dry and cut, I placed it over the holes on the toilet, held it tightly then used a pencil through the toilet bowl holes to mark the hole locations. Then I drilled a 1/2 inch hole on the marks.
Next, I cut and formed two riser blocks to fit between the existing seat and the toilet bowl. I started with a 1.5 inch square cedar board I had extra. Cutting a 3/16th notch is easy. Measure the cut width (about 1 and 5/16 inch) and cut two 3/16inch lines across the riser block. Then with a chisel, cut out this small notch. It should fit the lip of the toilet so that it doesn't bind but also doesn't move much sideways. Drill and countersink a 3/16th hole in the center of the block to make way for a single screw that will attach the riser block to the seat. If you have a plastic seat, you may have to glue and clamp the riser block. I have a wooden seat and the 1.5 inch screw worked fine.
Now, I mounted the seat to the toilet bowl using 4 inch stainless steel bolts, washers and wing nuts. I used 1/4 inch bolts and ran them through the existing nylon nuts to avoid direct pressure on the toilet ceramic.
Next, I used double-backed tape on the top side of the riser blocks so I could put the blocks on the toilet bowl lip where I wanted them, then close the lid and have the riser blocks adhere to the seat so I could put in a 1.5 inch #8 screw. Once the screws were tight, the job was done. I did drop one of the blocks in the toilet which messed up the doublebacked tape.
The results were wonderful. My wife could now get off the toilet without my help. What a difference just 1.5 inches made. BTW, we already had a higher commode, but it wasn't high enough.