Asked on Sep 08, 2016

Homemade toilet seat?

by Kayakmama
Seat level needs to be 1.5-2" higher than current rim for my elderly father's personal needs. (Need the height to keep his privates out of water and still be able to have feet on the floor) Other considerations: needs to be hinged for easy cleaning, able to be secured directly to the holes in toilet base, elongated shape, open at front, and cannot have a top lid. I have purchased medical seat lifts and searched the web. Nothing comes close. (Commode slides during transfer; nova 3.5" comes close in all respects except it needs to add 1.5-2"! I reasoned that by just being able to add a 1.5-2" hinged seat will solve the issue; however nobody manufactures one. Help?!
homemade toilet seat, This is what I spent 60 on at medical store It has the raised or elevated portion which is hinged
This is what I spent $60 on at medical store. It has the raised or elevated portion which is hinged.
homemade toilet seat, This is the seat elevator with toilet seat Privayes out of water feet dangling dangerous BTW he is 99 years old and may live to be 110
This is the seat elevator with toilet seat. Privayes out of water+feet dangling=dangerous. BTW, he is 99 years old and may live to be 110.
  15 answers
  • William William on Sep 09, 2016
    You will have to shop round. There are many different styles available. Some are friction fit, some clamp on, some have removable safety rails. Check out Walgreens, Walmart, Bed Bath & Beyond, Lowes, Home Depot. Good Luck!
  • Milly Mandy Milly Mandy on Sep 09, 2016
    Amazon is the least expensive place to buy these!
  • Carol Carol on Sep 09, 2016
    I deleted this comment as someone thought it rude. That was never my intention.
  • Maria Mercedes Townsend Maria Mercedes Townsend on Sep 09, 2016
    Check this out.
    • Kayakmama Kayakmama on Sep 09, 2016
      Thx for the suggestion. Up until now we have used a commode over existing toilet. It is no longer safe for him to use as it slips and slides and he is a fall risk. A 2" attached toilet seat to toilet base is the only choice I can consider because I've tried every other alternative. The Nova model in picture would work if it was 1.5" rather than 3.5". The water level cannot be adjusted in his facility and they also require the hinges for cleaning purposes on the elevated seats. I realize his specific needs are not met by any company, thus the question about how to make my own 1.5-2" toilet seat with hinges.
  • Phil a Phil a on Sep 09, 2016
    Sears has 2" toilet seat risers. This is why I recommend Chair Height Toilets for my customers. It makes it much easier for older legs to access. Good luck.
  • Pvick4 Pvick4 on Sep 09, 2016
    check at good will
  • Margie Spenser Margie Spenser on Sep 09, 2016
    Can he handle a step? If you built a platform around the toilet his feet could be flat on the platform.
  • Maxine Waller Maxine Waller on Sep 10, 2016
    You can actually buy a tall toilet.
    • See 1 previous
    • Kayakmama Kayakmama on Sep 10, 2016
      Also, the info stated it was for a round toilet and it is clamped on rather than connected by the seat hinge. Guess I'm out of luck:(
  • J.b. kelly J.b. kelly on Sep 10, 2016
    Check with your local o.t. dept at your hospital they may have some solutions
  • Deanna Nassar Deanna Nassar on Sep 11, 2016
    ok. Last ditch effort. Make one from wood. Need Rectangle of wood slightly larger than toilet. Place current seat riser on wood and trace outline outside and inside. Include hole placement for new seat bolts. Need small hinges that will fit in between seat portion and part that will be bolted down. Need to clear small depression for hinge center to fit into wood so it doesn't pinch if sat on, maybe 3 just a little shorter than the depth of the seat. Wood must be sealed and painted with at least 2 coats of paint. OR cut current seat in half and use wood under it to add strength. but still must be painted.
  • Phil a Phil a on Sep 11, 2016
    Wood, unless painted and sealed is a safe harbor for bacteria. Not the best choice. Plastic, even for a few dollars more, is much better. Like I said earlier, SEARS has them as well as the other links suggested. Phil
  • Deanna Nassar Deanna Nassar on Sep 12, 2016
    One other note. Attach small strip of metal to outside on each side. Hangs down just over toilet bowl lip. That should anchor it from sliding or shifting.
  • Pegg77 Pegg77 on Sep 03, 2017

    Have you looked into a medical supply store? If they don't have this, they might have suggestions. Some cities often have organizations that help with sort of thing. Ask a phys therapist, maybe?

  • Tom Howes Tom Howes on Oct 28, 2019


    Gave up trying find a manufactured 1.5 inch riser.

    Just finished this setup. I cut two pcs of 3/4 inch ply then glued them together. I made a pattern using cardboard for the back of the toilet. Then when the piece was dry and cut, I placed it over the holes on the toilet, held it tightly then used a pencil through the toilet bowl holes to mark the hole locations. Then I drilled a 1/2 inch hole on the marks.

    Next, I cut and formed two riser blocks to fit between the existing seat and the toilet bowl. I started with a 1.5 inch square cedar board I had extra. Cutting a 3/16th notch is easy. Measure the cut width (about 1 and 5/16 inch) and cut two 3/16inch lines across the riser block. Then with a chisel, cut out this small notch. It should fit the lip of the toilet so that it doesn't bind but also doesn't move much sideways. Drill and countersink a 3/16th hole in the center of the block to make way for a single screw that will attach the riser block to the seat. If you have a plastic seat, you may have to glue and clamp the riser block. I have a wooden seat and the 1.5 inch screw worked fine.

    Now, I mounted the seat to the toilet bowl using 4 inch stainless steel bolts, washers and wing nuts. I used 1/4 inch bolts and ran them through the existing nylon nuts to avoid direct pressure on the toilet ceramic.

    Next, I used double-backed tape on the top side of the riser blocks so I could put the blocks on the toilet bowl lip where I wanted them, then close the lid and have the riser blocks adhere to the seat so I could put in a 1.5 inch #8 screw. Once the screws were tight, the job was done. I did drop one of the blocks in the toilet which messed up the doublebacked tape.

    The results were wonderful. My wife could now get off the toilet without my help. What a difference just 1.5 inches made. BTW, we already had a higher commode, but it wasn't high enough.