How do I write on a plate and make it permanent without washing off?
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You could use a vibro-tool, which uses a sharp vibrating carbide tip to remove small amounts of the glaze. This is the only method I can think of that will not wash off. Ink filled in the marking will not release.
There are several sites promoting the use of Sharpies for this purpose then baking the ink on. I would call this semi-permanent and you will be able to scrub it back off.
http://homeguides.sfgate.com/decorate-plates-sharpies-86609.html
That is usually done to green ware pottery (pre-fired) with slip and glaze, and then fired in a kiln. You might try to find one of those pottery shops that helps you create your own pieces.
or you could paint it on, and then do multiple coats of clear. But you would not be able to use this for eating.