Asked on Nov 08, 2016

Repairing a porcelain sink

by D
I have a new kohler cast iron and porcelain sink that has a chip and crack on the front at the drain, it goes around to the back/bottom. Is it possible to get it repaired? One of the the pictures makes it look very big but its about 1 inch the chip and the crack Im not sure how far it goes maybe a couple inches. The 3rd picture shows the crack. Anybody ever have a sink resurfaced with repairs? I know it can be resurfaced but can the damage be fixed? It's especially worrisome to me since its at the drain where water will be constantly. Thanks in advance Dee
kohler single bowl kitchen sink damaged. Chipped and cracked,can it be repaired? its new and was 700 retail.
the damage is around the drain hole, the first picture is an extreme close up. The damage is about 1 inch. with crack running to bottom of back side. see next pic.
close up of the crack about 2 inches long runs to front where it chipped.
  14 answers
  • Emi Harr Emi Harr on Nov 08, 2016
    I'm thinking the only solution would be to repair it with epoxy... but I'm not a sink expert... just a crafty diy'er.
    • D D on Nov 08, 2016
      Hi Emi, I have never used epoxy but it sounds like a good idea. It has too be able to bond to both cast iron and porcelain so I'd better find out more about this media. Ive used bondo in the past but I never repaired a sink. Thank-you so much. Dee
  • Vimarhonor Vimarhonor on Nov 08, 2016
    Ive repaired so many things with the Oatey epoxy putty stick! Even a garage laundry sink with a hole ( thanks for hiding that defect with carrots -previous homeowner). It's a two-part epoxy sticky-found at big box hardware stores for about $6. You mix press -then you can use scrape off excess (I use depleted gift card) and/or sand and paint. Cured putty is strong enough to drill through. Its a light grey putty. After your satisfied with the final sanded surface finish -There's an epoxy paint made for appliance repair in a small bottle much like nail polish that's quite white thick and shiny that might suffice along with using a strainer basket probably totally disguise repair. These two items might cost $10-12 worth a try! Oatey Putty safely seals/waterproofs for plumbing boat repairs.... Ive used it for exterior entry door frame wood rot repair, elliptical pedal repair, multiple arts and crafts repair of pottery- wood -ceramics. Every home owner crafter or second hand shopper need a 2 part putty epoxy stick! You can find other expensive and smaller 2 part epoxy sticks versions in the boat marine and wood repair sections this Oatey one is a great value.
    • D D on Nov 08, 2016
      Thank You Vimarhonor. I'm going to look into this. I wonder how long the fix would last with water constantly on it,being at the drain and all. Being a marine product that sounds good. And it sounds a little like bondo. Hmmm Definitely needs the prep no matter what I try and use. I was hoping to have someome a professional repair and refurface it but it maybe hard to find a person who does this.
  • William William on Nov 08, 2016
    I agree with Vimarhonor. Sand the area before applying the epoxy putty. You can also get the appliance repair epoxy kit at Home Depot, Lowes, Menards, or Ace Hardware. I have used the epoxy putty to repair holes in gas tanks with great results.
    • D D on Nov 08, 2016
      OK thank-you. Good to know this product.
  • Brian Rayl Brian Rayl on Nov 08, 2016
    Bondo. The stuff they use to fix dents in your car. Mix bondo, smooth on with a plastic putty knife. The disposable kind. Sand smooth and spray with Sherwin Williams appliance paint. Or call a bathtub glazer.
    • D D on Nov 08, 2016
      Hi Brian, Yes,I've use bondo before, I repaired 40 ft. of facia on my house so I didn't have to tear off a railing that went around it,had posts every 6 feet. Just a beast of a job but it is still holding up and that was 8 yrs ago. I do like bondo. I've seen a couple videos of guys using bondo repairing a cast iron sink and welding it too. I would love to turn it over to someone who could fix my sink rather than attempt it since it's hard to install and involves water:) the sink must weigh 200 lbs not easy to move about! So I'm wondering bondo or epoxy.... so many questions! Thanks for your input too! Its much appreciated for sure. Dee
  • Vimarhonor Vimarhonor on Nov 08, 2016
    Its a putty ---so thicker than bondo. In fact that could be an idea too...fill with putty for structure followed by skim top coat with bondo might be easier to get that professional final smooth finish. Quite structural they state the cured putty can be drilled. Certainly you can apply putty on both the finished ( enameled) and unfinished sides of the sink. My concern is getting the smoothness ( sanding)on the finished side ---that you'd be happy with. Ive used it to repair fine cracks in my second-homes plastic bathtub....before the bathroom remodel. It held up fine with standing on it with showering. Please keep this product in mind for other repairs or projects --if you dont use it this time. We used it twice this week.....and I'm always thinking on new repair and rehab uses for it. Btw- Im not associated with the company. Kindest regards Karen
  • Joseph Joseph on Nov 08, 2016
    Repair it with bondo after you apply the bondo sand it and use spray paint for metal you can get it at Home Depot or lowes
  • Deanna Nassar Deanna Nassar on Nov 08, 2016
    You said "New". How new and was there a warranty of any kind? From supplier or installer.
    • D D on Nov 09, 2016
      Hi Deanna, It's new but came off of a CL purchase 3rd hand.. given to a gal who used something else & sold this one to me:) so I don't know why the previous, previous owner didn't use the warranty. Maybe they broke it and put it in the garage for a year and forgot. Who knows. It's just never been used. However now that you mention it,it does seem a litte wierd.
  • Joseph Joseph on Nov 09, 2016
    You can still repair it as new with bondo as is use to repair metal that's your best Shot on repair it or use it as a flower planter for your gardening
    • Gail Gail on Nov 13, 2016
      Years ago, I bought an old farmhouse with an OLD cast iron,porcelain covered kitchen sink. It eventually leaked from an old rysted spot. I mixed two bondo type agents together and it has held for over 6 years. Ain't pretty, but it worked! And I saved lots of money. I ain't cheap, I'm frugal. Lol.
  • Lucie Webb Lucie Webb on Nov 10, 2016
    Check your warranty
    • D D on Nov 10, 2016
      You know someone else mentioned this but you both gave me an idea. The warranty for whatever reason was not pursued by the previous owner. Im pretty sure once it leave's the original owner it's void. Thankyou tho to you and the other person because I realized the Kohler faucet I have that's leaking would probably be covered and when I called it was!! They are sending me new parts. So thank- you both for reminding me of that! I so happy it saved me a couple hundred dollars!!! Now the sink... I'm going to buy it based on lots of comments and a couple pro's. It's a chalking but worth the savings.
  • Lucie Webb Lucie Webb on Nov 11, 2016
    Glad this worked so well for you!
  • Carol Carol on Nov 11, 2016
    Some products do have lifetime warranty. I buy a lot of stuff at yard sales. If damaged, I check warranty and go from there. I also check with manufacturers for suggested repair and I also check google and YouTube. If all else fills Use bonds or epoxy to the metal side, it appears the drain flange will cover the porcelain side. Check and then repair the surface and put the whole thing together. There are also people who resurface tubs and maybe they can also do sinks. Let us know about the repair or warranty replacement goes.
    • See 3 previous
    • D D on Nov 14, 2016
      This sink is 700 new. It's a drop in by kohler. I know the Bib or farm sinks can be crazy expensive these days for sure. Probably because they are so popular. The older ones are definitely better quality. I will save about 350 when all said and done.
  • Lynn Lynn on Nov 13, 2016
    There are SO many epoxies and bondo products out there. There is silicone, outdoor and metal epoxies...You may want to check with a marine/boat place to see what they would recommend.
  • Paul D. Donovan Paul D. Donovan on Nov 13, 2016
    This is a manufacturers defect that should not have left the factory, you should be able to exchange it! However, if I have purchased it, REALLY CHEAP, in the hopes of repairing and using this sink, here is how I would repair it. First, select a 1/8 drill bit for drilling Steel. S L O W L Y drill a hole 1/4 of an inch from the end of the crack, through the cast iron side of the sink, just deep enough to touch the porcelaine. Then use 50 or 60 grit sandpaper to cut down through the softer, exposed, porcelaine until ALL rust is removed on the inner bowl side, with JUST the sandpaper. Once ALL the rust had been removed, use a round 'something', the correct diameter, to trace a circle as large as the end of this area to be sanded, all the way around the sink drain hole at that water level. INSIDE that circle, sandpaper this surface to give it 'tooth' for epoxy to which to adhere! Measure the sink drain tube and, if it is too short, add a piece long enough to reach down through the hole from the water level of epoxy. Set-up the sink and Drain Tube to the installed level. Mix the epoxy and pour around the drain tube, fill until the epoxy just touches the underside of the drain opening flange. Then combine and mix some, White, Half Hour working time, epoxy, enough to pour into the sink and fill this area. Let it cure for a WEEK until it is rich hard and totally cured. Some types of epoxy, shrink just a little after it cures. If this happens, you should be able to thread/pull the drain tube out of the NEW hole, apply white silicone and reinstall the drain and put a weight on it, or tighten it enough, to give the silicone sealer enough time to cure/seal completely. Once this is done, flip the sink over and tape off the drain nub and the sorrounding outer edge of the sink, completely. Purchase a spray can of (White, if possible!) Rust Stop Paint. Starting at the drain opening, spray the entire bottom of the sink until it is dripping down the sides in a perfect sheen. Use the entire can if it needs it. Let the paint dry/cure, in a very warm place, (A seldom used car or truck, in the sun, is best!) for a week. Then sand the excess flange from around the outer edge of the sink, install and use as you see fit. Some times if you wait until the epoxy is JUST beginning to get hard, you can push the drain flange down enough to create that last water run-off edge that sinks need to prevent that little puddle around the drain flange! Unless you want to get creative and use a die grinder to create your own. As you may have guessed, this worked for me, very well indeed. I have used this sink, heavily, for more than six years now, no problems at all. I DID fine sand and polish the epoxy until it was as shiny as the Porcelaine. Warning, if you tell people of your success, with this repair, they may throw money at you to come repair THEIR sinks. Lord have mercy!!
    • See 1 previous
    • Paul D. Donovan Paul D. Donovan on Nov 13, 2016
      If you want more holes, you will need a Burr Grinder, Diamond edge Hole Saw and BiMetal Hole Saw, both the same diameter! It will take at least an hour or more, for each hole, and if you mess it up, it's all 'On' you! Better to find a 4 hole to begin with!
  • Johnavallance82 Johnavallance82 on Feb 21, 2023