Asked on Mar 19, 2015

My shower knob sticking out of wall, how do I fix it?

Jo jo
by Jo jo
+23
Answered
Shower knob is sticking out of wall, how do I fix it?
q my shower knob sticking out of wall how to fix it, bathroom ideas, home maintenance repairs, how to, plumbing
  16 answers
  • You need to clean and dry the wall behind it, then apply kitchen and bath silicone

    • See 3 previous
    • Marion Nesbitt Marion Nesbitt on Mar 21, 2015
      @Susan Brown I thought about this. But silicone is pretty adhesive - holds heavy mirrors in place. Worth a try - making sure it is taped in place well and left for a few days to give the silicone a chance to really bond. As a first try before calling in the pro.

  • Moxie Moxie on Mar 19, 2015
    is the fixture loose as in you can push it back in and then it pops back out? do you have access the the piping in the wall from the other side? this is too big a joint to calk and not correcting it will cause water damage to the substraight behind the tile and potential the area behind and below the shower...over time tile could fall off and the the floor could rot making the shower unsafe if on upper level. Need more info.

  • Jo jo Jo jo on Mar 19, 2015
    Thanks, but then I will be pushing it inside the wall. My question is how those pipes are installed so that only certain length is exposed and when you put the knob/plate it will flush with the wall. I am trying to address reason for it coming out more then it should.

  • Jo jo Jo jo on Mar 19, 2015
    Thanks Moxie: yes i can push it back and then it pops back out. From front there is a hole big enough may be I can insert my hand, but from back I have to make a hole to get to the pipes.

    • Susan Brown Susan Brown on Mar 20, 2015
      @Jo jo There are access panels sold for that at any home depot or lowes, maybe even ace hardware.

  • Moxie Moxie on Mar 19, 2015
    The pipes should have been retained or clipped to the wall so this wouldn't happen. They use sraping or like horshie shaped clips but apparently they missed it on this pipe or it broke. When water starts is has a pressure to it that can make pipes move and the movement needs to be restrained.

  • Jo jo Jo jo on Mar 20, 2015
    so how do i fix it?

    • Moxie Moxie on Mar 20, 2015
      @Jo jo get in through the other side so as not to disturb the tile (drywall is easier to fix) and tie of the pipe so it can't move back and forth (make sure you have it where you want it when to tie it...don't puncture the pipe)

  • Adrianne C Adrianne C on Mar 20, 2015
    Mine had a similar problem, installer neglected to install the screws that were supposed to secure it to the interior part of the faucet. There are several different methods used to do this, depends on the brand. If you can get to the back of it you could discover just what it needs. Going to a home improvement store and finding the faucet that you have helps too. Then searching it out online once you discover the brand.

  • Tobey McCool Tobey McCool on Mar 20, 2015
    A plumber can come and fix that problem in a few minutes and would not cost you a lot. there is too much of a gap the pipes need to be secured behind the wall. when it involves possible water damage and broken pipes best to get an expert. I had a plumber come and change something for me I could not do and he didn't even charge me.

  • Marge Marge on Mar 20, 2015
    Find a block of wood that will fit in the the hole, wiggle it up in between the front of the pipe and the back of the wallboard, it needs to be a snug fit so it will hold your pipe back where it is supposed to be, then silicone it to the wall board. Let it set up for 24 hrs then silicone around your faucet to keep moisture from getting into the wall.

    • See 2 previous
    • Ray Ray on Mar 21, 2015
      Marge's idea is your best solution. It will work and it's what a plumber would do. It should not need the silicone unless it is real loose. The other alternative is to cut an access hole from the back side, if the back wall is Sheetrock it should be easy. If it doesn't work com

  • Kdm1435514 Kdm1435514 on Mar 20, 2015
    Congratulations Marge from Zeeland, MI. Apparently another "Josephine the Plumber". I love it when a lady comes up with a simple solution for a complex question.

  • Jaxon Jaxon on Mar 20, 2015
    This is what you need to do (from an ACTUAL plumber): you need to gain access to the wall behind the shower control. In other words, you need to open the wall up so you have access to the shower diverter and remount the control closer to the wall. Marge from Zeelands idea would somewhat work but most of the time when they rough in the hole for the control they don't usually make it very big. Either way is what you need to do to properly fix it. Good luck!

  • Sal kemple Sal kemple on Mar 20, 2015
    Apparently when rough plumbed in the studding wasn't put back for enough or there was no backer board put on the sheetrock to give you the distance needed. To fix short of tearing it off and doing it right I'd get a clear piece of acryllic then cut it out to be a half inch or larger larger than the circle of the shower mechanism . Apply a light mastic and then seal around the whole new circle with silicone. If you don't seal it you're going to get water behind the tile wall and start growing your own hazardous mold.

  • Shawna Shawna on Mar 20, 2015
    Marge's solution is by far the wisest!!

  • James James on Mar 21, 2015
    Did you try taking the handle off the diverter and pulling that round cover plate forward? You might be able to have enough room if you do that, to see in there and possibly get a screw gun extension tip with a magnetic holder for a screw, and get a screw into the flange back in the wall, if there is one there. There usually is two screw holes for attaching the rough plumbing back to the framing to hold that in place.

  • Cheryl Copass Cheryl Copass on Mar 22, 2015
    Run a heavy bead of plumbing adhesive caulk around rim push on to tile may have to put masking tape on it to hold until dries

  • Sam Sam on Mar 22, 2015
    Thanks everyone for your advice, Took the Marge advise and cut the Styrofoam (because easy to cut) and inserted between pipes and front wall. Did not caulked it since there is a rubber backing on the plate and there is a notch on the bottom for water to escape. Here is the picture