What helps to seal an poorly hung front door?
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Rather trying (and failing) to put in pieces of rubber, etc. have the door rehung properly! A 1" gap to the outside will allow the heated air of your home to escape and all the air of the home will go outside at a rate of about 1,000 sq. ft. per hour!
See if you qualify for free energy study and/or weatherization. Check your state/local agencies. If you must pay, clearly purchasing a new door hung properly will pay for itself in energy savings over a short time period.
You can also look to purchase a new door, often with the proper frame, at Habit Resale Stores and similar.
You can buy weather stripping in a roll online or at Walmart, HD. Lowes, etc.
.I would remove the door and put aside and fix the frame. Check if the frame with a spirit level to see if it is square. Where it is out is were the extra timber packing should go. It would be better to put in the extra packing the other side of the frame so that the frame then sits straight, and this will mean taking off the frame to pack and then replacing it. Then re-fit the door and all should be well. If this is not a job you feel you could tackle, ask a Carpenter to do it for you. He will be quicker at it too.......
We have the same problem... and a new door will be around $1000.. I went to our local Lowe's and purchased some stick on weather stripping... there are different styles...I chose one that would fill the space between the door and the molding the door closes against. So far it is doing the job when the door is snugged tight by the lock.
Here's a video that may help: (try this first) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5tH0PwzHn5g
And here's another video if the first one doesn't work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KyBALzRRCw&t=26s
Good luck!
I agree with Suzette. Check to see if the hinges need adjusting first. You may be able to get rid of the gap. Those foam strips do work, too. I use them on my moms door to her patio that is in her bedroom, it is square, but you can see light through the one side and the bottom.
I've used the foam seals and they didn't work out. The thickness made the door hard to close (even though they come in different thicknesses), adhesive gave away over time (door jamb needs to be really clean), and the foam would shred/tear. I went with weatherstripping that gets nailed to the door stop and the rubber against the door on the outside. A door rubber door sweep screwed to the bottom of the door.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/M-D-Building-Products-Top-and-Side-Door-Jamb-Weatherproof-Set-01271/100164928?cm_mmc=Shopping%7cTHD%7cG%7c0%7cG-BASE-PLA-D25H-Hardware%7c&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIooia3aa01wIVQ7jACh1mSwDLEAQYAiABEgILVfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CPKa8uGmtNcCFcJvAQody3gG-w
https://www.lowes.com/pd/M-D-3-ft-White-Aluminum-Vinyl-Door-Weatherstrip/3831525
Rather than wasting $$$ on weather stripping buy wood shims. Open door and loosen hinge accross from gap area. Put shim in under hinge. This will straighten door to match frame, reducing gap. When you get shim in under hinge far enough tighten screws and break off. If you still have gap, now use weather stripping. You won't be using as much and having big was tear off when opening door.