When I built my pond, over 8 years ago, the instructions were to build a berm above the waterline and lay the liner on that slight grade - this helps to keep water in the pond in the event of a lot of rain or accidental overfill. It also keeps unwanted chemicals from spilling into the pond - again in the event of flooding. That said, the back side of the berm was filled in with rock (for drainage) and then whatever slate or tiles you wanted were set on that - overhanging the waterline. They were not cemented in, just put there so you could move them if necessary. Like I said, my pond is 8+ years. The foliage has grown over and everything looks quite natural and lovely.
On a side note: Lime will alter the PH value of the water making it deadly for the fish. It is also a problem that will not go away so the best way to cure it is to treat all new cement work with a neutralizing agent, carefully following the manufacturers instructions, or paint the cement with a special pool paint to cover it. "Homework" is essential.
We are in the process of remodeling our guest/hall bathroom; we removed the tub to create a walk in shower instead. I'm using subway tile on the walls, and penny t...
See more
I am going to decorate my porch steps by adding mosaic tile to the raisers of my concrete steps and would like to know what adhesive would work best. Also what kind o...
See more
Years ago, I tried using tile nippers on glass mosaic tiles and they just looked chewed up. Because they’re iridescent, a chewed up edge is going to really show. Th...
See more
My home is only 4 months old the caulk and grout are cracking around the edges of the tile in the kitchen and bath. Is it normal for new grout to crack?
Hi there. I tried the Homax Tough as Tile product (Bathroom, Sink, Tub & Tile Refinish) on the tiles in my bathroom shower. I waited the 3 hours as mentioned. The fir...
See more
Hi fellow home talkers! How are all of you doing? If anyone could help me out...I would really appreciate it! We have a very porous PORCELAIN tile in our kitchen. ...
See more
I have to replace this board with waterproof stuff. I want to then tile the enclosure. How far should the tile go- up to where the edge of the tub is? I would think t...
See more
See if these help you.
https://youtu.be/ibszRBO-CeQ
https://homeguides.sfgate.com/edging-goes-around-ponds-42160.html
https://www.velda.com/ponds/build-construction/edging/
You could put tile or I would even recommend decorative river rock.
I would lay concrete over and under the rubber edge and smooth to lay your tile onto using mastic when concrete is dry..
You don't. Stone, pavers, or wood. To hold the liner from falling in or folding.
When I built my pond, over 8 years ago, the instructions were to build a berm above the waterline and lay the liner on that slight grade - this helps to keep water in the pond in the event of a lot of rain or accidental overfill. It also keeps unwanted chemicals from spilling into the pond - again in the event of flooding. That said, the back side of the berm was filled in with rock (for drainage) and then whatever slate or tiles you wanted were set on that - overhanging the waterline. They were not cemented in, just put there so you could move them if necessary. Like I said, my pond is 8+ years. The foliage has grown over and everything looks quite natural and lovely.
On a side note: Lime will alter the PH value of the water making it deadly for the fish. It is also a problem that will not go away so the best way to cure it is to treat all new cement work with a neutralizing agent, carefully following the manufacturers instructions, or paint the cement with a special pool paint to cover it. "Homework" is essential.