How can I secure these legs?

Hi Kathy, hope this helps

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZWQCsvRbORw

Kathy, I would put wood putty as far down into the splits as you can. You will have to sand the areas smooth after they dry, which means you will have to repaint. Another thing you might try is Elmer's Wood Glue or Gorilla Wood Glue. These two are liquid and might work better than putty.

Hi Kathy! I have included some links for you. Hope this helps you.

https://www.woodworkingtalk.com/articles/4-ways-to-glue-without-clamps/

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodworkingwithhideglue.aspx

Hi, Kathy,

I do a lot of wood work (I am studying restoration - fine arts level) and for your type of crack -and if it's not to big- I would suggest that you first sand the area -keep the sawdust, or you could get a little bit from Home Depot or any other place where they sell and cut wood- you will need very little and they will give it to you for free.

Once you have sanded and cleaned the area, mix about a spoonful (or adjust depending on the size and number of cracks) of sawdust with a few drops of professional grade wood glue and a few drops of water, you should get a paste with a consistency slightly runnier than that of toothpaste, then use a thin spatula or the tip of a knife to fill the gap and shape, and clean the exceeding paste.

Now you will have to clamp the fixed area to apply even pressure, so in order to protect the wood from getting dented by the clamps you can create a sort of 'bed' with newspaper under the clamp and then tighten it until the crack seems to close. Clean whatever repair paste is expelled by the pressure and let sit without moving it at least for 12 hours, but 24 is best. You can then remove the clamps and sand again if there is any roughness, and then proceed to paint or treat your piece as you want to.

If you need to repair more than one crack, make the repair mix a little at a time as it dries quite fast and is not very easily revived because too much water makes it lose its hold power. Use a piece of glass or a saucer to mix it, something that is not porous.

Personally, I dislike the ready made wood repair putty because it is so artificial, plus there is absolutely nothing that works as good as the real thing, but if you prefer an easier fix, then do the putty.

Good luck to you!

Thanks!

All of the above are good tips. Putty is fine to fill the crack, but since this piece supports the weight of everything above, I would also suggesting pinning it. From one side of the crack drill a small hole that runs perpendicular to the crack. You want to pass through the crack and gain some footing on the other side but don't have to drill out the opposite side. Countersink the opening. The hole needs to be a bit smaller than the screw you use. The screw needs to be long enough to go through the crack and into the other side. Apply some wood glue to the hole and carefully screw the screw in, sinking it below the surface of the the opening (and your countersink opening.) Fill the top with putty so that the screw is covered. Now...once you remove old paint try this product: PC-Petrifier. It is a liquid epoxy-like solution that soaks into wood and binds it together. It can't be used to fill/join that crack, but it will increase the density and strength of the entire piece.

I would not use wood glue. And as a woodworker I have tried Gorilla glue and dislike it. Better glues on the market and cheaper. In your situation, I would use a two part epoxy. Use a mint flat screwdriver to open the gap. Use a toothpick, cotton swab stick and force the epoxy in the crack. Close the crack, wipe off any squeeze out with nail polish remover, Tape the joint with blue painters tape for a few days.

Do not drill any holes like Susan suggests. You need as much wood mass for strength and support.

Rini's suggestion is when one is trying to fill seams, gouges, cracks in raw wood to match the wood.

Thanks for all the info!!!