100% Guaranteed Squirrel Proof Bird Feeder!
How to make a truly 100% squirrel proof bird feeder, guaranteed!
I'm one of those people who wears binoculars, the funny hat you see in parks and watches birds. Yep, I'm a birder. So naturally, I like to feed the birds in the yard, and hopefully get some interesting, out of the ordinary species from time to time, but notice I said species, not genus. Yes squirrel, I'm talking to you! I love all animals alike, but I'm not loving you hogging the feeder all the time. One day I might give you your own, but for now, hands off.
Seriously, I'm not a brilliant engineer, but I can confidently say this is a truly, undeniably legitimate -squirrel proof bird feeder. The original one I made in 2007 and had it going for years without a single squirrel cracking the code. I moved out of state, so didn't take it with me. But the time has come to make another one, and this is the new and improved version.
The trick to this is that you have to have any surface a squirrel can grab be 6' off the ground. You also need the pole to be too wide for them to climb. To keep it affordable, I used PVC and a round HVAC duct pipe.
The biggest challenge is that if you are going that high, you still need to be able to reach it to get the seed in there, plus you obviously don't want it to be wonky. I had the additional challenge of needing to be able to easily dismantle it in case the landlord doesn't want it around whenever we move. So this version can be dismantled, leaving little trace behind.
**Make sure to plan to install this away from any tree branches or other obstacles that are within a 6' drop or 6' jumping distance.
STEP 1 | CUT THE PVC
Make the following cuts from the 1″ pipe, using a miter saw.
(4) @ 2″ = D
(1) @ 3″ = C
(2) @ 12″ = G
(2) @ 17″ = F
(2) @ 20″ = E
(1) @ 11″ = A (11″ should be your remaining piece after cuts are made- close to this number is fine)
Now cut the 1 1/4″ pipe to 72″. This piece will be B.
STEP 2 | ASSEMBLE THE FEEDER ARMS
To see how to assemble the feeder, I strongly recommend downloading my super handy, free PDF illustration. It shows a diagram of how each piece of the 100% squirrel proof bird feeder goes together.
Unfortunately, I don't have a way for you to download the plans directly from here, so you will need to come to the post on my site to get the download link.
Head here to get the
If you don't want the free plan, then here are the written instructions without the diagram. Afterward, continue to Step 3.
• Connect 2 of the D's from the tee connector to 2 elbow connectors.
• Next, connect the E's from those elbows to the wye's.
• Then connect both F's from the wye's to the cross tee so they connect in the middle.
• Add the last 2 D's to the open connector of the wye's, then add 2 elbows.
• Connect the G's to the open ends of the cross tee and add the last 2 remaining elbows.
• And last, add the caps to each of the 4 open pipes.
STEP 3 | STRENGTHEN THE SQUIRREL PROOF BIRD FEEDER ARMS
Use a rubber mallet to better secure the bird feeder arms by hammering each PVC piece and connector together.
STEP 4 | DIG THE POST HOLE
As a reminder, make sure to plan to install this away from any tree branches or other obstacles that are within a 6' drop or 6' jumping distance.
First, carefully lift and remove the first couple of inches of grass with the shovel and set aside to place back on top of the concrete when it's dry and dig the hole 11" deep.
Now place the 11" PVC post in the hole. Use a level to make sure it is standing straight.
Next, mix the concrete directly in the hole. Start by filling the hole about 3/4 of the way with the dry concrete, slowly add a little water. Your proportion should be about 4:1 with the concrete being the larger proportion. Stop at about 1 or 2" from the ground so you have room to replace the soil and grass.
Blend the concrete just slightly with the shovel or use a stake and add more water or concrete as needed. It should be the consistency of stirred up crunchy peanut butter. You'll know it is firm enough if you are able to let go of the post, This should be somewhere around 10 minutes. Then let it cure overnight.
STEP 5 | SAND THE PVC
If you like birds, you may want to check out my Homemade Bird Bath tutorial!
Keep the arm pieces assembled for this. First, you need to roughen the surface of the PVC, so start by sanding all over each of the PVC pieces except for piece B, where you will only need to sand the top and bottom 6" or so.
The easiest method for doing this is to grab the PVC with the sandpaper and twist back and forth, moving along the PVC, but don't sand it lengthwise. Be sure to also sand the connectors on the bird feeder arms, as well as the male and female connectors that you haven't assembled together yet.
Clean The PVC
In order to help the paint adhere to the PVC, you need to clean it and make it less porous. Acetone will do both for you, so take the acetone, pour it on a rag and rub it all over the PVC. When it dries (about 30 minutes), it's ready to be painted.
STEP 6 | PAINT THE PVC
First, lay down a drop cloth, and be careful of messy overspray and then lay the bird feeder arms, PVC pole and male and female connectors adapters on the cloth. Remember, you only have to paint the top and bottom ends (6" +/- ) of the pole (B).
*Hint- use a stake or post smaller than the 1" to support your feeder upright, just stick a stake into the ground drop the PVC pipe over the stake, then you won't need to flip it over to spray the other side and can do it in one shot.
To paint, shake the can of PVC paint (following the instructions on the can) and then hold the can 8-10" away and for the bird feeder pole, spray in a vertical motion up and down. Then spray lengthwise for the rest, sweeping back and forth. I recommend 2 coats. Do not use the feeder for 24 hours in order to prevent scratching.
STEP 7 | DRILL THE POLE INSERT OPENINGS IN THE HVAC CAPS
Drill a hole in the center of both of the HVAC caps using a 1 3/8" Forstner bit.
STEP 9 | ASSEMBLE THE TOP CAP
Take the reducer bushing and slide it through the top side of the HVAC cap that goes on top, and then slide the reducer bushing into the male adapter.
STEP 10 | DRILL THE HVAC CAP HOLES
Using gloves to avoid getting cut by the sharp edges, lay the HVAC pipe down on its side and mark the three locations on the side of the cap where you will drill holes for the bolts. Make them evenly spaced. Drill 1/4" holes at each location using a drill bit made for metal.
Hint: Be sure to squeeze the pipe in the opposite direction from where you are placing pressure. You may want to put an object in the HVAC opening to provide tension while drilling.
After each hole is drilled, test that everything lines up by temporarily securing it with the bolts. Assuming the holes line up, go ahead and remove the bolts and disassemble the pipe from the cap.
STEP 11 | GLUING THE C, G AND F PIPE
Glue the feeder at the C pipe, using the 2-part epoxy to both the tee connector and the reducer bushing with HVAC cap attached.
Then glue G and F to the cross tee.
STEP 12 | INSERT THE BIRD FEEDER PVC SLEEVE INTO THE HVAC
Take the bottom HVAC cap and slide it onto the HVAC pipe, and then insert the PVC post sleeve into the HVAC pipe with the female end facing the top and connect it to the male adapter.
Start by inserting the black pipe into the PVC pole sleeve and HVAC until it hits the top.
Now insert all this into the 11" pipe sleeve set in the concrete in the ground.
STEP 14 | ATTACH THE BIRD FEEDER ARMS
Next, this may feel a little awkward, but take the bird feeder arms and screw the whole thing together at the male and female adapter connections.
Once tightened, fasten the top cap to the HVAC pipe with the bolts in the holes you pre-drilled in Step 10.
Replace the soil and grass you set aside to cover the top of the concrete.
FINAL STEP | HANG THE BIRD FEEDERS
Use a step stool and wrap the chains around the bird feeder arms and then attach your various feeders to each chain hook.
Now watch in delight as the squirrels try to conquer the 100% squirrel proof bird feeder!