Stair Case Black and White
Removed wall-wall carpet, pulled staples, nails, filled holes, sanded (more times than I can count). Added shoe molding to treads/riser area. Primed, sanded, painted a black and white theme; then added carpet treads from Dean Flooring (Pet Friendly that does not use any tacks, staples, or tape; just place them and they do not move; love them and they make it much safer for a dog. If you notice in one
Used black floor paint on treads(which is a satin finish) , and interior semi-gloss on rails. (Benjamin Moore floor paint)
Shoe installed, and I made return miter's for a pro look. (I hope)
Carpet treads got online at Dean Flooring (Pet Friendly version). http://www.deanstairtreads.com/
If you notice in one photo a red circle. I added this piece to make this shaky rail more stable. Tightening the rail bolt was fruitless. I Drilled and counter sunk a long lag bolt from the backside of newel post, into the underside of the handrail. I cut a 3/4" piece of PVC pipe and filled it will foam peanuts, then filed the ends of this pipe to match the curvature of the post. held my PVC pipe piece place, inserted lag bolt. (the foam peanuts will keep the pipe snug to the bolt). I then filled in my countersunk bolt on newel post with wood filler and painted, and painted the PVC pipe black; looks like it supposed to be there, and now the rail is very sturdy.Also take note of added chair rail on wall. Added this as a paint stop. I can paint downstairs, and not the upstairs walls.
Before-wall to wall carpet.
At top of stairs, I cut out the carpet, and added a preformed oak tread; and painted. Tread has nosing/over-hang built in (got at Lowes).
Also take note of added chair rail on wall. Added this as a paint stop. I can paint downstairs, and not the upstairs walls.
Top floor tread. Also, the molding you see at bottom of Newell post is a kit. Came with metal L brackets. It stopped the post from wobbling, and the molding covers the brackets. Then caulked and painted it.
Added shoe molding. I painted floor/tread black before installing shoe mold. Important to nail shoe molding to riser, not the tread. The tread/landing will move when people walk on it. I did caulk the shoe mold, but only to the riser, not caulked to the tread.
Top landing was particle board, yuk. . So I broke that out, and replaced with T&G fir flooring. Primed and painted. Added shoe mold. I also pre painted floor/landing/treads black under where all shoe mold would go, before installing shoe mold, since I was not caulking shoe between tread and shoe. I did caulk shoe to riser,. The step/landing will move when stepped on, even if you cant see movement, and if you caulk the shoe to tread, it will crack eventually, so don't do it.