DIY Magnetic Chalkboard Frame

After an unfortunate extended layoff due to CHILDREN (getting me sick), I'm back with some magnetic chalkboard magic. Using 2x3 sheetmetal, 1x4 pine, plywood and Rustoleum chalkboard paint I constructed a magnetic chalkboard to organize the family's activities in the kitchen command-center.
Check out the video above to view a moving picture show unlike anything you've ever wanted before in your life. OR! Check out the step by step guide below! I know, not the best of choices but it's all I've got today...
Set your miter saw to 45 degrees and make the following cuts to build the main frame:


2 - 1x4 @ 34"L (inside), 41"L (outside)


2 - 1x4 @ 22-1/8" (inside), 29-1/8"L (outside)
Dry fit the newly cut frame to make sure everything is square. If you need to make any adjustments to your pieces now is the time before they're joined together FOREVER! Like us.
I'll be using biscuits to help with the alignment of my frame. This isn't a necessary step, but if you have one why not? If you DON'T have a biscuit joiner, don't sweat it! I think glue and some hardware will do just fine.
I make my way around the perimeter of the frame putting (2) 1-1/4" brad nails in each side.


Next I'm going to turn the frame over and put (3) 1/2" staples on the face of the back of the frame for added stability.


Apply wood filler to your joints, brad and staple holes.


Finally sand down the entire frame and prepare to stain!
Today I'm using a mixture of Minwax's Dark Walnut and Ebony. YES! You can mix stains! The possibilities are ENDLESS! (actually there are about 26 Minwax wood stains so the possibilities...uh...do end...so yeah. sorry about that.)
I'll be using (3) coats of Rustoleum's chalkboard paint on my 2x3 sheet metal. The first coat goes on THICK and blue. But don't freak out! It dries black.


OK I freaked out a little.


After using a brush for my chalkboard, I actually recommend using a small foam roller instead. It will eliminate any brush marks and minimize bubbling.


Sand in-between coats with 600 grit sandpaper. This will level out any bumps or brush marks. Anything more coarse may scratch the paint. Wipe with a damp paper towel after sanding.
Grab your sheet of 1/4" plywood. Use the sheet metal as a guide and make your cut using a circular saw.


PRO TIP! If you measure the distance from your blade to the end of the metal guide on your circular saw, you can transfer that length to your plywood and use a piece of scrap 1x4 as a track to make a straight cut.


This has saved my life SO MANY TIMES because apparently I'm incapable of making a straight cut while using this machine.
Dry fit your sheet metal on the back of the frame and trace the perimeter.


We'll be using Gorilla Glue to attach the metal to the frame. Keep the Gorilla Glue tight to your line because when it dries it expands 2-3 times it's original size! Gorilla glue's got no chill!
Use your really expensive, professional clamps to keep pressure on the metal and wood we're bonding.
Lay your plywood over the metal and attach it to the frame using 1/2" screws.


Please pre-drill before screwing to avoid breaking, cracking and assorted variations of dismay.
I'll be using this $20 mirror, picture and frame hanger. It's a simple cleat system that will hold a good deal of weight once mounted into wall studs.


Pre-drill and screw the first side of the cleat to your frame. It helps to use clamps to keep the cleat in place.
Mark out the location of your wall stud and attach and level the cleat to the wall.
Then hang your frame! And that's a wrap! We did it! Together. Mostly me...but you helped...in spirit.
Thank you for reading!


If you want to check out more of my videos, you can find them here: https://www.youtube.com/c/DIYwithRick


OR check out my really fun website here: www.diywithrick.com
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