Insulating a Crawl Space/Attic Door for Improved Energy Efficiency
I love our nice big closet in our bedroom but I don’t love the uninsulated access door to our crawl space which is in the closet. It gets a little frigid in there during winter mornings.
Materials Needed:
Foam panels (3/4"x13-5/8"x48")
Utility knife
Painter's tape
#10 washer & wood screws
Pencil
Putty knife
3M Heavy Duty duct tape
Caulk
Rubber tubing
Door sweep
This is the access door to our crawl space which runs along the length of our bathroom. The access door is in our closet which is fine except the fact that the crawl space has very little insulation and neither does the door.
As you can see, using the ”flame test”, the door is a little crooked which leaves a gap at the top and the bottom which allows cold air to flow into our closet.
My husband and I have made numerous attempts to quickly put up insulation but it always ended up not working.
I decided enough was enough and I was going to insulate it correctly.
1. Remove old insulation
I began by removing the old stick-on insulation using a putty knife.
2. Mark where the door frame meets the door
Then I went inside the crawl space and closed the door. Using a pencil I drew onto the door where the door frame came in contact with the door (Red line)
I purchased this pack of foam panels. They are 3/4”x13-5/8”x48” and there are 6 in a pack. I only used 3 for my door.
3. Measure the door width
I began by measuring the width of the door.
4. Prepare the panels
A. I marked one foam panel
B. Drew a straight line
C. Cut using a utility knife
5. Attach the insulation panels
To hold the panels in place, I used painter’s tape and taped the panel to the door.
A. I drilled a pilot hole
B. Using a #10 washer & wood screw
C & D. I attached the panel to the door making the screw snug but not too tight.
I used a washer to assure that the screw didn’t got completely through the foam.
Once the door was screwed in place, I removed the painter’s tape.
6. Insulate the door handle
For the inside door handle:
A & B. I measured and cut pieces to fit around the handle
C. I used white 3M Heavy Duty duct tape to hold the pieces in place
D. Then I added more duct tape to assure that everything holds
I continued to add foam panels working my way down the door. Where sections of foam came together, I taped the seam with duct tape. The red circles indicate where I attached screws to the door.
7. Caulk
Once all of the panels were in place, I caulked around the edges of the panels.
8. Add rubber tubing
While the caulk dried,
A & B. I added rubber tubing around the edge of the door
C. It is adhesive and the back peels right off
D. I attached it around the inside edge of the door
9. Add a door sweep
To finish,
A. I used a door sweep
B. This is also adhesive and the backing peels off
C. I applied the sweep to the bottom of the door
Insulating a Crawl Space/Attic Door for Improved Energy Efficiency
Now my door is completely sealed and as you can see by the “flame test”, no air is leaking through.
I’m ready for you, Old Man Winter!
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Comments
Join the conversation
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In your case, I am wondering whether it would have been faster, and easier to cover the inside the closet walls with the foam panels to insulate the walls, rather
than the door. I am thinking that there must be some kind of removable glue, such as post note pad type glue to attach the panels to the walls and ceiling, of your closet and then tape the panel joints.
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The air was and is coming from the door opening. That's what she wanted to stop to hold in the heat in her closet and bed room. Now for extra insulation I would do that around the bathroom walls to help keep the bathroom from getting cold. I feel there is nothing more uncomfortable is a bathroom. We use the bathroom more then what we think. Beside going potty we shower brush our teeth. S ok me use the bathroom to do make up hair. Men use to shave and do their hair if they have hair. Wash hands and so on. It amazing how much we really are in the bathroom. For me I hide in here from people when I need a few min of quiet lol.
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I would only suggest using the chaulk alone to hold the foam panels on instead of screwing them on.
Frequently asked questions
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