Before and After Cast Iron Bench Restoration
I picked up two cast iron bench ends and the cast iron back insert for 40 bucks. The wood was missing but the cast iron was in good condition so we thought that it was a project worth attempting since these benches can sell for up to $400 when new. I don't know the original cost of this one but the benches with back inserts are more money. The reason why I was originally open to buying bench pieces was that
Our first step was to grind off all the rusted and bent bolts. We used a grinder with a cut off wheel to cut the bolts off but a hacksaw would work just as well but take a little longer. We have a grinder so we used that but don't buy one just for this project when a hacksaw will do.
Next was clean up the rust and dirt.
I used a brass bristle brush to loosen the dirt and rust and then washed it down with soapy water and wiped dry.
See that thin cast iron around the edge of the triangular opening? That is called flash and is a remnant of the casting process. A good cast will not have any flash. My father was a mold maker so I have seen examples of good casting and bad casting my entire list. An example of a good cast is a Lego piece. There is not even a seam to be found. Old antique cast iron will be crisp and practically flawless. Modern day cheap castings with a lower grade cast iron will have flash and the details will not be as crisp.
We decided to use a grinder with a metal cone bit to grind away any flash or seams. This grinder is pneumatic so the rpms are higher so the removal goes faster.
Looks better, doesn't it? It's the little details that make the end project worth it.
Paint time. Spray paint in black satin. And then I had an epiphany. Out of the blue I remembered that I had bought some short cast iron legs about 10 years ago for 5 bucks. I wasn't sure when I bought them if they were for a bench/table/foot stool. But I knew that I needed them. So I bought them and then stashed them in the garden shed for 10 years.
After I painted all the pieces, I still wasn't sure what these legs were for and wouldn't until it was assembled.
We first made the frame for the insert and biscuit joined and glued the joints and made sure to clamp the joints until it had dried completely. The insert was also screwed into place to help keep the back true until we could attach it to the bench end pieces.
Next we cut the slats for the seat and used 1X3 poplar.
We used a router with a round over bit to round over the four sides on the top of each slat AND completely around the outside of the back.
The bolt holes were drilled and counter sunk before we attached the back. I still need to sand before we paint or stain the wood. If you stain do not use a poly or varnish coat. Use a sealant and apply every year to protect the wood. These benches all have rotted wood because they came from the factory with a clear coat that failed and trapped water.
I didn't want to buy any extra wood so we had one 9 foot board left so I did a little figuring and found that we could make the table top slats by cutting them 21 inches long.
And here is what the bench and table look like right now. We are not sure if we are going to paint or stain the slats. I'm leaning towards staining with an exterior stain with a sealant already added.
How did we do? Read the series of posts on my blog to get even more details on this bench and small table restoration.
And a photo of the small table. It has the same pattern on the legs as does the bench. Kismet for sure.
Bench pieces $40
Short leg pieces $5
3 cans of satin black spray paint $9
Nine foot poplar 1X3 boards $62.96
Misc screws, bolts, washers, and nuts $11.50
You can drastically cut your final cost if you have scrap wood that you can use. We didn't have anything in our scrap pile because we have been diligent about checking the scrap wood inventory before buying more wood.
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